I am very interested in this valve, I am still running the stock piece. How are the adjustments made with the RS valve?

 

I just tuned my car last week for 25 psi and it held perfectly

 

Adjusting the valve is done by turning the knob on the top.

You will need to turn it clock-wise to tighten it for higher levels of boost and counter clock-wise to loosen it for lower levels of boost.

The adjustment knob is ratcheted and there are 4 "clicks" per 1 full revolution of the knob (360 degrees). There are also roughly 13 full revolutions meaning about 52 "clicks" to provide a wide range of adjustment.

The spring is designed to hold about 7 PSI with no pre-load added to the sping (adjustment knob backed all the way out) and about 34 PSI with the maximum amount of pre-load (adjustment knob tightened all the way).

The relationship is not completely linear, however, and each click of the adjustment knob is NOT necessarily good for 0.519 PSI as predicated by the above numbers (roughly 2 clicks per 1 PSI). Each car will vary in it's required level of adjustment and each spring will vary slightly in it's rating varying the amount of clicks or turns of the knob for the desired level of adjustment.

 

Mine holds 25 psi perfectly also, just not in first or second gear.

 

Now that we have 11 people, we just hit a 25% discount. 10 more people and the discount will go to roughly 35%.

 

I'm assuming one will want to adjust so that the spring is tight enough for the amount of psi running rather then going too over correct? If you overshoot and adjust the spring tighter then 25psi (for example) when you're running 21-21psi would this cause stalling,etc?

Thanks.

 

Any degredation in driveability (stalling,etc) when running the spring tighter to hold 25 psi?

Thanks.

 

Now thats what im talkin about.


35% off

 

Zero.

Even running 28 psi there were no issues with my friends car

 

You are correct in your assumption that the valve needs to be tuned to the individual vehicle for exactly the amount of boost pressure it is making at the time.

Not too tight, otherwise the valve will not open properly at throttle lift and it will create compressor surging.

Not too soft otherwise the valve will leak before redline and there will be a loss of power due to a loss of boost pressure.

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The valve needs to be tuned following the steps listed below:

1. Install the valve on the car. Be sure that the adjustment knob is turned all the way to the left (loose).

2. Once the valve is installed, with the car parked, slowly, but steadily rev the engine to redline.

3. You will notice that the engine will only rev roughly 2/3's of the way to redline, before the valve opens and begins venting.

4. The valve will need to be adjusted until the car can rev to redline, or whatever your current redline is based on your software or level of tuning, without venting.

5. Once this is accomplished, the car should be ready to go.

 

Thanks for the info. Is the bov a slip-in to the 1g flange or welded (permanent)?

I like this design.

 

It screws into the valve.

 

im in for the group buy, let me know when

 

Here you go
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...09#post2173809

 

The is modular in it's design.

The bottom and side ports of the valve are threaded to allow them the to be changed for the desired setup.

The complete valve kit includes 25mm and 24mm bottom ports, as well as the 1G Eclipse flange available at an additional charge. It will also include 25mm, 28mm, and 34mm side ports as well as the horn for atmospheric applications.

To use the valve atmospherically, it will be required to use the dual-piston configuration which is supplied when the valve is bought as a recirc. only unit, or in the complete kit.