ct9a gsr

iTrader: (7)

Getting the crank replaced is not a cheap job... trust me, I know. =[ =[ =[

Rez90

iTrader: (17)

the curse continues......................................... .....

apexernsx

iTrader: (11)

Don't do anything until you get a second opinion. On my Buschur prepared car I had the same opinion from one shop, took it to Buschur and it was something entirely different and much much cheaper to fix. REPEAT GET SECOND OPINION, REPEAT AFTER ME, GET SECOND OPINION

nix

Hi Outlaw (Sanctifier on this end )
You're sayin the same thing that I was suggesting on 3ne 2nr months ago.
(Just did a search - thread seems to be deleated.)

Crank-walk may be connected to inaccurate clutch slave-cylinder &/or pressure plate alignment; as well as excessive pressure on thrust-bearings from some after-market (especially single-plate) kits.

Another disadvantage of single-plate, high-pressure kits seems to be extreme loading on drive-train at launch or during a "rough" gear-change. This is especially true for "non US" AYC rear axles. Two tuners have told me of excessive loading on AYE cars using "single-plate" kits. Another tuner has already destroyed his AYC, and had to replace it with RS type LSD.
Seems that the best (but most expen$ive) solution is a twin-disk kit. Best of all are super-$$$ "carbon" kits like RPS or Exedy; or more economical Cerametallic kits.

Also a key factor for crank-walk on re-built 4G63's seems to be incorrectly "colour-coded" (micro-sized) main-bearing kits. Seems there is a color code for "matched block & bearing sizes" that must be followed when changing bearings.
This info is laid out in Evo 6 manual.





My $0.02c

04Evo8RS

iTrader: (9)

sound like my 95 talon i had..........crankwalk sucks

ACTman

iTrader: (5)

I don't see where alignment of slave cylinder or pressure plate has anything to do with crankwalk. I am not really sure how you mis-align either one. The drivetrain is not loaded any more extreme with a single plate versus a multiplate clutch so I don't see a multiplate as a "solution". It is all about torque capacity and how aggressive the friction material is (harshness), not so much about clamp load or number of discs (although both affect torque capacity). Just my own 2 cents.

broeli

iTrader: (19)

Definitely get a second opinion. Just like apexernsx..I know someone that had problems. He took it to the dealer and they said crankwalk and wanted $5300. He decided to take it to Buschur to get a second opinion. It turned out to be a loose flywheel!

nix

Not out to argue or discredit anyone's products ACTman. Just putting the pieces together to protect myself. Remember nobody has the definitive solution for crank-walk, even after all these years.

This is just one of many similar posts that I've seen from different forums about crankwalk querries on the Eclipse and Evos (especially E4) so far:-

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kirk Tome [mailto:kirktome@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 12:39 AM
> To: sales@roadraceengineering.com
> Subject: To Road Race
>
>
> To anyone who can help me with my problem,
>
> Hi. Short history of my '97 GS-T:
>
> Bought three clutches because they kept failing,
> usually after ~15K miles.
> They were all ACT's with the 2100 lb. plate.
>
> Got sick of this, so I purchased an ACT with the
> 2600 lb. plate (Clutch
> #4).
>
> After about 1000 miles, engine died and would not
> restart. Mitsubishi
> dealer's repair shop stated that the crankshaft was damaged because its
> bearing failed, and damaged the crankshaft sensor. Fixed for about $2800
> (new crankshaft and sensor).
>
> After about 1000 miles, engine died. Took back to
> Mitsubishi. They said
> same bearing failed, fixed for free under warranty (new
> crankshaft, sensor,
> and short block).
>
> AGAIN, after about 1000 miles, engine died.
> Mitsubishi states it won't
> warranty the repair because of the heavier pressure plate.
>
> This seems ridiculous. Could this problem really be because
> of the clutch?
> I'm really in a jam and want to determine the cause of this agonizing and
> expensive problem. If anyone has heard anything regarding this type of
> problem before, please let me know. I appreciate any help that
> you can give
> me.
>
> Thanks for your time,
> -Kirk Tome

_______________________________________________

In addition, data from Road / Race Engineering seems to dispute your claim that "The drivetrain is not loaded any more extreme with a single plate versus a multiplate clutch"
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchpressure.htm

It seems that there is a wide variance in loading going on there from many different kits, including yours IMHO.

You are entitled to protect your product's reputation... but I'm entitled to protect my wallet... that's why I recently bought not one, but two twin-plate (cheaper cerametallic) kits for two Evo engines. Thank God that was before the prices went up in May '05.

I have been advised by more than one user that they last longer (one more than three years and going strong in a hard driven Evo 6 in "hill country" ); have a "softer" pedal; and are much more gentle on the drive-train than the competition. They do suffer from mild chatter on launch and gear-change, but other than the very high price that's the only disadvantage found so far.

No disrespect intended, only a "common sense" collection of possible variables from different sources to try to solve the problem to the best of my limited ability.

BTW the querry for "alignment of slave cylinder" remark was made in a secret meeting for Tech Service Managers by Mitsubishi themselves.
(I'll look for the exact post and link it here for you.

Looks like everybody's $0.02c

timzcat

iTrader: (10)

I thought Magnus pretty much summed it up on the crankwalk issue. And it really doesn't matter what clutch you have with thier theory and their theory does make a lot of sense.

SaabTuner

I found an interesting description for the cause to crankwalk here (and it makes a lot of sense if you read it through): http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/crankwalktheory.htm

If you pull your own engine apart, check all of you piston-cooling oil jets. If one of them is stuck open you might walk the crank again.

Also, if you do pull your engine apart, you might consider putting 1g style piston-cooling jets into the motor by tapping them into the main oil-gallery. That way, if one of them gets stuck open, your thrust-bearing's oil pressure doesn't drop to virtually naught at idle.

Adrian~

KILTERMAN

iTrader: (9)

they seem to have grasped why this is happening , my only question is:

If we (evo) have a 7 bolt motor, Do we share the same oil squirters as the 2g eclipse? And if we do and suffer from Crankwalk ( God forbid ) this would support their theory. Now if we don't share the same oil sqiurter design of the 2G Eclipse does one would have to assume that DSM understands the problem and has corrected it once again proving their theory to be headed in the right direction. as with everything only time will tell.

SaabTuner

Well, I'm sure there has to be someone on the board who has pulled apart an Evo motor. The 1g style oil-squirters are quite obvious and look like this:



^^^ Anyone seen those in the Evo motor?

Adrian~

timzcat

iTrader: (10)

Yes, that is what is in the Evo motor. Only supporting the theory that he should get a second opinion.

ACTman

iTrader: (5)

From your last post, it seems as though we are talking about two different things. It sounds like you are talking about the powertrain (engine), not drivetrain (what puts the power to the wheels). If you are talking mostly about crankwalk, I don't argue that our clutch will put more load on the thrust. I don't think it causes crankwalk (very rapid wear of the thrust), but it sure doesn't help.

Like you said, no one has a definitive answer as to the true cause for crankwalk on the DSM. When you have a thrust go out in a few hundred miles, it is not the fault of the clutch. Something else is seriously wrong. I remember a poll on a DSM site years ago. There were guys running our heaviest clutch for 50K on cheap oil and no issues and others with the stock clutch getting crankwalk in a few hundred miles running Mobil 1. There were even automatic DSMs with crankwalk. Weird stuff.

unior

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA

yeah ok.

the autos DEFINETLY crankwalked also

you guys are all diggin up the fricking heresay and bs from the years past

just leave it go and see what happens - how many of you guys have 80,000 plus miles on your evo?