evodude1

How come some people say I should just get a K&N drop in filter instead of an Injen Intake or any intake for that matter? What are the highs and lows?

Devbo

well i have read the same thing and i donno if i agree with it. i have the injen intake and you lose a little bit in the lower end, but you gain quite a bit in the top end. but i would look into it some of the people that posted that intakes are not that good unless you have a bigger turbo. they are backed up by dyno numbers but i wander if most of the people jump in the ban wagon without proof. i donno i am sure people are going to post to this one, and shot me down but i dont care. i would say go for the intake i love it and you cannot beat the sound of the turbo sucking all the air around it in. and i love the top end that i get with it.

Itsmeeeugene

iTrader: (1)

just get a intake+tune. then ur set

David Buschur

iTrader: (53)

Our intake gains from beginning to end of the dyno pull. Stock car is 3-5 whp. 300 whp car is closer to 10 whp.

I like an open element filter on an EVO, the room it clears up alone is nice, our kit looses 6 pounds from the car on top of the room and HP.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

gsujeff55

iTrader: (4)

Dave, do you know if the stalling issues with a cone style filter are made better or worse by the positioning of the MAF? When i had the box part of the maf toward the bottom of the car, i didn't seem to have the stalling issues that im having now since the mitsu guys put it back the other way when they did my clutch.

I haven't changed it yet, but i wanted your(or any experts) advice on it.

Thanks

MyEvo8

iTrader: (8)

i have a hks rs intake, its increase hp and sound of bov. but requires reflash or tuning, because it make the evo run lean.

David Buschur

iTrader: (53)

There are two different moderators on here than can verify what I am going to tell you about the idle/stalling.

First, just the open filter will NOT cause any stalling issues at all on the stock MAF pipe.

The stalling issues seem to be related to the design of the MAF pipe. Our original MAF pipe had two bends in it. We found that re-designing the pipe and only using one bend in the pipe that the stalling/idle issues were completely taken care of. This is what two of the moderators can verify for you.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (185)

fwiw - I have found the intakes, regardless of who makes it, really requires the ecu be remapped. They all alter the MAF readings in one form or another, some more dramatically than others. As such, if you team your intake install with a flash, or have some means to adjust for fuel control, you'll be good to go.

Examples of widely used intakes that can be flashed via mailorder are HKS, Helix, Injen, and I am sure several others as well

David Buschur

iTrader: (53)

No way am I argueing, but our filter kit if just replacing the stock airbox will require NO additional tuning, the car will run like stock, I promise. As soon as you change the MAF pipe then the car will require some tuning.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (185)

totally agree with David on that one - I have seen it first hand. One intake that does not replace the MAF pipe but still totally skews the MAF readings is the ARC - very good intake, but def needs to be tuned for

GOKOU

iTrader: (2)

Is the one bend the one that goes up in an angle? Trying to see which one I have.

So the stalling is due to the maf pipe and not bov? Not sure but could be a combination then.

Thanks.

nubby

iTrader: (6)

I have just the BR cone filter, and I don't have any idle/stalling issues, and the car runs just fine. 3 - 5 HP gain doesn't really register on my butt dyno, but I like the sound and it looks neat.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

I can absolutely back this up.. (Specifically referring to the BR Cone filter only) I did not have any issues with stalling at all until I installed a MAF pipe, the filter alone really doesn't do any harm, well, it causes the car to run marginally leaner, which is worth a few horsepower, but it never appeared to make my car dangerously lean.

There's a few good explanations of why the MAF pipe causes stalling, but essentially when the pipe had bends that made the inlet and outlet parallel, the airflow from the recirculation valve, or any small amount of surge, would directly disrupt the MAF readings and could cause stalling. As David said, by using only one angle, the airflow would have to go around a turn to disrupt airflow which meant it was no longer at just the right angle to confuse the sensor. HKS addresses this by tapering the size of the pipe up from the turbo to the Maf, which in theory should slightly decelerate the airflow. But Dave's solution seems to work best in most cases.

I wanted to also add that many other intake "Kits" do replace the intake and MAF pipe, in those cases you will need a retune since they alter the MAF readings in different ways. Overall they lower the MAF reading which can cause the car to run marginally, to severely lean, thats why its very important to get the car tuned when you make modifications.

THere are some filters that will alone alter the MAF readings, ARC is a good example, there are others that I can't think of offhand, but it has alot to do with how the airflow is directed INTO the MAF at that point. Most cone-only filters won't really give you too much grief.

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

I installed an HKS panel filter (similar to K&N drop in) into my stock airbox and it did two things for me:
1.) AFR was consistently .2 to .3 leaner
2.) When dynoed, I gained between 3-5 whp

The stock airbox (especially with a panel filter) does not seem to be a major restriction until you approach at least 400+whp.

l8r)

Jeff_Jeske

iTrader: (66)

Are there gains to be had by replacing the intake pipe or are the true gains from the filter itself?