David Buschur

iTrader: (53)

anja,

See what I mean. No two people have agreed on the math yet. Mine works, not sure why how it can be wrong.

Doesn't matter really.

Facts are facts, some people just don't like facts.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

EVOONYOASS

iTrader: (2)

I told everybody I was shooting for 450-500whp on a dynojet with this turbo and they all said I was crazy. Who's the crazy one now.....

cpdevo31

so is the surge completely gone now dave?

Boosted AWD

iTrader: (1)

With the Evo 9 Turbo, not the 8. You can thank the new compressor housing for that. I wish you could add that new IX cover to an VIII turbo, anyone know why you can't?????

Smogrunner

iTrader: (5)

VTECH8TR> Smogrunner my apologies your post has been restored.

I promise this to David Buschur: If the 20G-9 performs as advertised and without surge problems, I will promote their sale here on these boards, on SoCalEvo.net, and in Southern California over at Tuning Technologies (whether DB wants me to or not ).

EVO8LTW

iTrader: (41)

I think that you and anja actually agree. You are just using different reference points for calculating the percentage difference.

Cars make 31% more on Tym's dyno than yours.

Stated another way, cars make 22% less on your dyno than Tym's.

They are both true statements (i.e., percentage "increases" equal the difference over the lower number and percentage "decreases" equal the differences over the bigger number).

If 328 on your dyno equals 430 on a dyno jet, then that explains 124 mph.

What blows me away about this is that you should be able to break 120 mph on 94 octane now

PVD04

iTrader: (23)

Dave, I will try to explain it using your numbers so that it is easy for everyone to understand. On your dyno the car put down 218 hp, and on Tym's dyno it put down 281 hp. The difference is 63 hp. That 63 hp is ~22.5% of 281 hp (63/281). That same 63 hp, however, is ~28.9% of 218 hp (63/218). That is why different percentages have to be used depending on which dyno you are starting from.

So working backwards to check the math:

Going from Tym's #'s to your #'s
281 x (1 - 0.225) = 217.775

Going from your #'s to Tym's #'s
218 x (1 + 0.289) = 281.002

Hope this helps.

-Paul

David Buschur

iTrader: (53)

smogrunner,

To be honest, I took no offense to your post and questions, I'd prefer your questions stay here. You were not rude, it is just discussion and that's what improves things, talking about it. Please just leave your stuff there.

Actually you kept me awake last night (which doesn't take much) and I thought about my car and the times it is running. Here are a few more points you need to consider.

The day my RS ran 11.30, 11.31 and an 11.32 it also had 1.60, 1.61 and a 1.62 sixty foot time on my Yokahama Neova's. On that particular day the car ran a best of 120 mph, if I remember right.

At the shootout the car was the quickest/fastest stock appearing EVO there. On that day it was raining on and off and the track was not the greatest because of that. The 60' times would not go below 1.70's. On that day, if I remember right, the best ET was 11.5-11.6 and the best MPH was 117-118.

The car went on the dyno sometime around there and I was happy with what it was making, again, if I remember right it was 328 whp.

I took it back out to Dragway 42 then. Kevin and Trent both drove it that night and that is when it was running 122-124 mph trap speeds. On that night the ET's would not drop below 11.4's, if I remember right.

Please keep in mind that I am honest, whether some people want to believe it or not. It's not like we rented the track and made these times up. They were all run on normal nights with plenty of witnesses. I also am very open about typing my results here on EVOm. If someone was really interested (and bored enough to do it) you could go back and find the dates of my posts, ET's, MPH's and dyno numbers and put this all together perfectly.

Smogrunner,

Also keep in mind. Not everyone is going to run anywhere near what "I" am going to. I have taken great pride in the fact that we have many customers who have gone faster than we did with the same parts. The same will happen with this turbo. It is going to take someone dedicated with a lot of mods though. I am telling you this so when you see guys turning in 300 whp numbers on a dynojet and 12.5's at the track you don't just say, "I told you the turbo sucked and the Buschur was a liar."

Also, I agree that on 94 octane this car should easily be able to run 120 mph trap speeds. It did it with 328 whp on race gas before and is now making 349 whp on pump!

To refresh everyone's memory here is what my RS is all about:

BR Stage 3 shortblock, 020 overbore, no balance shafts
BR Stage 3 head, ported, polished, o-ringed
HKS 280 cams (stock cam gears)
BR ported intake manifold
BR 65 mm throttle body
BR ported coated manifold
BR ported coated 10.5 turbine housing
Ebay 02 housing
BR full 3" exhaust w/offroad pipe and race muffler
BR race FMIC
BR 2.5" upper i/c pipe w/Tial BOV-heaviest spring they make
BR 2.5" lower i/c pipe
BR 2" turbo outlet
BR20G-9
BR 3" MAF pipe, w/BR cold air intake (only works on car without sprayer or HID's)
AEM EMS, w/5 bar map, air temp sensor (and one bad ***** tuning it
Exedy dual disc HD clutch
BR lightweight battery kit
880 cc injectors
BR fuel pump upgrade (stock fuel rail and stock FPR)
Autometer boost gauge (this is the only gauge in the car that didn't come in it) gauge is custom mounted where the mirror switch is in a car with power mirrors. (RS does not have power mirrors.
Stoptech front brakes
DMS 50 mm suspension
BR rear sway bar
BR rear motor mount (that's all we had when I put it in, putting in front next)
HKS Twin power (didn't need it until I went over 370 whp on our dyno)

For weight reducing items these things all helped:

No front or rear bumper beams or brackets.
No emmission canister (that big black piece under the rear of the car)
No heat shields under the car.
No sound deadener on the floor of the car. (RS)
No backing on the carpet.
No a/c.
No power windows. (RS)
No power mirrors. (RS)
No intercooler sprayer bottle.
No carpet or plastic in trunk area (RS)
BR exhaust -36 pounds.
BR air filter kit -6 pounds.
BR battery kit -20 pounds.
SSR wheels.
Stoptech aluminum hat front rotors.
Spare tire, jack, tools. -43 pounds.
*Basically, go to our website and there is a weight reduction section there. I did all of it but I did NOT take the windshield washer sprayer bottle out in the rear.

What I did NOT take out.

I still have both air bags, I think they are important for a street car and driving around with my wife/kids.

I still have all the doors beams in the doors.

I added speakers (RS doesn't have any) and I added a decent stereo with a flip out screen so I can watch movies

I left all the seats belts in the car and all the interior panels and such.

For someone to walk by my car and look at it the average guys is going to have no clue anything has been taken out. The car looks to be 100% perfect, as it is, but I just got rid of unneeded crap.

At the C&D event we were all weighed. The RS came in, without a driver at 2900 pounds. So it is light, I'm proud that it's light so don't give me any grief. I knew what I was going to do with the car when I bought it, that's why I bought an RS this time. First EVO was a normal GSR.

The lighter a car is the faster it is and the less parts it is going to break. To build an EVO that is fun to drive and quiet you don't need to do all this. A 300 whp EVO on our dyno at full weight will run in the 11's with a good driver.

I don't want that kind of car. I want the fastest EVO I can have with the mods that I have on it. I have always been like that. Weight loss is an afternoon's work away and free.

I just added a set of aluminum coil overs to the car and sold the DMS's. The reason was the DMS's are heavy. Excellent product but the weight drives me nuts. I have considered having some special rotors made for the car to drop more weight but keep the excellent braking that I have. I am truly a weight freak. I will not cut up and ruin a car but I will get every OUNCE out of one I can.

These are all things to keep in mind when you start watching this turbo and it's performance from normal everyday EVO owners. Don't knock the turbo, consider the combination it is moving, the tuner and the parts combination.

Bring me an EVO, anyones, let me prepare it just like mine and the results will be had from anyone.

DAMN AM I LONG WINDED!! hahahaha

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

David Buschur

iTrader: (53)

Rich and Paul,

Thanks. Now I see why I get messed up.

I always did it this way: 217/281 or 281/217. Both of them gave me different numbers but both numbers are correct. One is the loss one is the gain.

That is just freaking nuts. I will have to dyno the car at Tym's and see if the percentage of loss/gain (however you want to look at it) holds the same from car to car.

This means my car, should make 500 whp on Tym's dyno. I do not believe that it will. It just isn't a number I can believe is possible honestly. Maybe I am finally getting use to the MD numbers!!?? hahaha

Another example, since I am in the mood to type, too much coffee

My old 1991 Eagle Talon, this is the car that put us on the "map" and is currently the same car John Shepherd ran 7.9 at 179 mph in.

That car made 446 whp on a 2wd Dynojet with 550 cc injectors and a 20G that is identical to what we are using now except for the rotation. At that WHP level on a 2wd Dynojet the car ran a best of 11.07 @ 127 mph. This was with me behind the wheel. That same combination on Tym's car ran 10.98 at 124 mph. I sold the car to John exactly like that and John ran a 10.72 at 132 mph. The Talon was about the same weight as my RS is now.

Also remember. Curt Brown ran 10.98 at 124 mph already on a TME 16g turbo in his EVO. Curt is a hell of a driver and also optimizes his combination through, tires, wheels, weight and tweaking a combination to its fullest.

There's no doubt this turbo is going to make some very very fast EVO's that keep their fun to drive factor and great spool up.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

Boosted AWD

iTrader: (1)

Hey Dave, with your AEM EMS setup, do you use a wideband unit with it or not?

RSGuy

iTrader: (12)

The question is will the car get sideways or lose traction when you hit full boost in 1st gear?

~fred

David Buschur

iTrader: (53)

Yes, I use the integrated wide band with the AEM. It's actually the only way we like to sell the AEM EMS.

My guess is the car is going to get loose in 1st gear with ease.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

IE Evo

Dave, can u give us an Idea of what an average Joe evo will likely Dyno with a 20g.
Meaning an Evo with basic bolt-ons. If I get back in the game this turbo would intrigue me to say the least.

mikiblueeyes

iTrader: (7)

+1

David Buschur

iTrader: (53)

Well I think it is going to depend on what is done to the car for mods. Personally I'd recommend our Stage 4 being done before even considering a 20G. Then it will depend on boost level, octane and what the car is being tuned with.

Jarrod's car has the Apex Power FC on it. I worked on his car for a couple of hours and am not finished yet. With 18-19 psi of boost his car made 297 whp on pump gas. I am not as familar with the Power FC as I am the EMS so it takes me much longer to get the tune exact. I think his car will go 320 whp on pump by the time I am done.

This would be "typical".

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com