20G turbo upgrade from Buschur Racing.
Aug 1, 2005, 12:54 AM
#107
To just answer the questions so far.
I don't need any "test" cars for the turbo, thanks to all the guys that have asked and sent me PM's
I am making sure this turbo works as I want it to before I ever sell one, I am confident that once I do sell them they are going to work. Actually I am very happy right now and would start selling them today, except for the fact that right now I am not getting over 22-23 psi from it. I will check for the problem today. It has to go higher, just have to find out why it isn't. Probably a leak or actuator problem.
Other questions was what FMIC am I running. I have our new race FMIC on the car now, pretty impressive right?
I need to make sure EVERYONE can find the modifications on my RS before I EVER sell one of these turbos. My RS is HIGHLY modified. I mean by bolting on a GT35R and a swapping injectors the car would make a reliable 600+ whp right now. The only thing I had left to do was a turbo. I am over due for a turbo. My stock turbo would have run these numbers too, but it would have been done with much higher boost levels/spikes.
For sure, absolutely, 100% certain....this turbo pulls harder up top than the stock turbo did on my car. For sure, absolutely, 100% certain that it also is flowing more air as my AFR's were WAY leaner with this turbo getting bolted on than with the stock turbo. AFR's before were in the mid 11.5's, bolted on the turbo they went into the 12.5's. That is quite a change.
My car has on it right now:
Buschur Racing (BR) Stage 3 shortlbock
BR Stage 3 head
HKS 280 intake and exhaust cams
BR complete Stage 4
**Substituted our normal FMIC for our race FMIC kit.
Also using the 680 cc injectors that come in Stage 4 kit
Using our MAF pipe with our optional cold air intake. (only works on car without HID lights and that no longer use the i/c sprayer bottle)
Exedy clutch
AEM EMS for engine management instead of AFC or flash
BR ported intake manifold and 65 mm throttle body
BR ported and ceramic coated manifold, turbine housing and 02 housing.
Stop Tech 335 mm front brake upgrade.
Car is being run on straight 118 octane fuel
One other important part. The final drive gearing has been changed. We did this for the C&D event so we could hit our top speed in 4th gear, which ended up NOT working. At this point in time I haven't decided if this gear change has helped our hurt the cars acceleration in the 1/4 mile. My guess is that it HAS slowed it down. I won't know until the day it gets changed back to stock.
Other tidbits:
My car is an RS, it was already pretty light to begin with. I added a stereo and speakers (RS comes without them). I removed the front and rear steel bumper re-enforcements. I removed the spare tire, jack and little tool kit. The car comes with no sound deadener from the factory, no power windows or power door locks. The car has our lightweight battery, exhaust and air filter kit on it. No ABS. Lightweight SSR Competition wheels 17x8.5", Yokohama Neova radials. DMS suspension, rear sway bar and titanium front strut bar. No HID headlights, no i/c sprayer bottle or alky.
What I am trying to get across here is I have done everything to the car to make it fast. This isn't some half *** effort with a bunch of parts just thrown on. Especially not some half *** put together package of the cheapest E-bay parts that could be found. (Don't attack me on that comment, just making a point)
I don't excpect many other people to duplicate a 11.30 at 120 mph. As a matter of fact it is going to be extremely difficult for anyone else to do it. Kevin had a 1.60 and a 1.61 sixty foot time on two of those runs. That in itself on those tires is absolutely amazing.
However, the 120 mph traps speeds at only 22 psi of boost doesn't lie. The turbo really picked up the car and the stock turbo could not duplicate that MPH without much higher boost levels.
This topic is about the turbo and the turbo seems to work well. This is the first time I have been really excited about the turbo since we started on it well over a year ago.
With the boost leak fixed I am really hoping to see a 10 second time from the car in the stock appearing class at the shootout. It stops faster than stock, turns faster/harder than stock, rides better than stock. This is an EVO, this car is just an improvement on a great car. This is NOT a drag car. It has had nothing CUT off of it or had any of the safety equipment removed from it. Seat belts are all intact and so are the air bags. The door beams are all in it and all the windows work as they should. There is no hole in my rear window where there use to be a wiper.
My point is while the car is built to its full potential it is in no way anything that can't be duplicated with some money and work (like in the lightening of the car). I like to think I made intelligent choices and that is why it is performing like it is.
Just wanted to make sure everyone reading this or that will read it in the future understands a turbo is not a miracle cure for a poor combination of parts. A turbo is what it is. It needs tuned and it needs to be installed with parts that will bring out its potential.
This particular turbo I feel is as good as you are going to get a stock appearing turbo on an EVO.
Looking forward to more boost and a 10 second pass.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
I feel with this turbo I have the ultimate EVO for ME. The car spools extremely fast, as you call can see from the logs. Pulls very hard up top.
I don't need any "test" cars for the turbo, thanks to all the guys that have asked and sent me PM's
I am making sure this turbo works as I want it to before I ever sell one, I am confident that once I do sell them they are going to work. Actually I am very happy right now and would start selling them today, except for the fact that right now I am not getting over 22-23 psi from it. I will check for the problem today. It has to go higher, just have to find out why it isn't. Probably a leak or actuator problem.Other questions was what FMIC am I running. I have our new race FMIC on the car now, pretty impressive right?
I need to make sure EVERYONE can find the modifications on my RS before I EVER sell one of these turbos. My RS is HIGHLY modified. I mean by bolting on a GT35R and a swapping injectors the car would make a reliable 600+ whp right now. The only thing I had left to do was a turbo. I am over due for a turbo. My stock turbo would have run these numbers too, but it would have been done with much higher boost levels/spikes.
For sure, absolutely, 100% certain....this turbo pulls harder up top than the stock turbo did on my car. For sure, absolutely, 100% certain that it also is flowing more air as my AFR's were WAY leaner with this turbo getting bolted on than with the stock turbo. AFR's before were in the mid 11.5's, bolted on the turbo they went into the 12.5's. That is quite a change.
My car has on it right now:
Buschur Racing (BR) Stage 3 shortlbock
BR Stage 3 head
HKS 280 intake and exhaust cams
BR complete Stage 4
**Substituted our normal FMIC for our race FMIC kit.
Also using the 680 cc injectors that come in Stage 4 kit
Using our MAF pipe with our optional cold air intake. (only works on car without HID lights and that no longer use the i/c sprayer bottle)
Exedy clutch
AEM EMS for engine management instead of AFC or flash
BR ported intake manifold and 65 mm throttle body
BR ported and ceramic coated manifold, turbine housing and 02 housing.
Stop Tech 335 mm front brake upgrade.
Car is being run on straight 118 octane fuel
One other important part. The final drive gearing has been changed. We did this for the C&D event so we could hit our top speed in 4th gear, which ended up NOT working. At this point in time I haven't decided if this gear change has helped our hurt the cars acceleration in the 1/4 mile. My guess is that it HAS slowed it down. I won't know until the day it gets changed back to stock.
Other tidbits:
My car is an RS, it was already pretty light to begin with. I added a stereo and speakers (RS comes without them). I removed the front and rear steel bumper re-enforcements. I removed the spare tire, jack and little tool kit. The car comes with no sound deadener from the factory, no power windows or power door locks. The car has our lightweight battery, exhaust and air filter kit on it. No ABS. Lightweight SSR Competition wheels 17x8.5", Yokohama Neova radials. DMS suspension, rear sway bar and titanium front strut bar. No HID headlights, no i/c sprayer bottle or alky.
What I am trying to get across here is I have done everything to the car to make it fast. This isn't some half *** effort with a bunch of parts just thrown on. Especially not some half *** put together package of the cheapest E-bay parts that could be found. (Don't attack me on that comment, just making a point)
I don't excpect many other people to duplicate a 11.30 at 120 mph. As a matter of fact it is going to be extremely difficult for anyone else to do it. Kevin had a 1.60 and a 1.61 sixty foot time on two of those runs. That in itself on those tires is absolutely amazing.
However, the 120 mph traps speeds at only 22 psi of boost doesn't lie. The turbo really picked up the car and the stock turbo could not duplicate that MPH without much higher boost levels.
This topic is about the turbo and the turbo seems to work well. This is the first time I have been really excited about the turbo since we started on it well over a year ago.
With the boost leak fixed I am really hoping to see a 10 second time from the car in the stock appearing class at the shootout. It stops faster than stock, turns faster/harder than stock, rides better than stock. This is an EVO, this car is just an improvement on a great car. This is NOT a drag car. It has had nothing CUT off of it or had any of the safety equipment removed from it. Seat belts are all intact and so are the air bags. The door beams are all in it and all the windows work as they should. There is no hole in my rear window where there use to be a wiper.
My point is while the car is built to its full potential it is in no way anything that can't be duplicated with some money and work (like in the lightening of the car). I like to think I made intelligent choices and that is why it is performing like it is.
Just wanted to make sure everyone reading this or that will read it in the future understands a turbo is not a miracle cure for a poor combination of parts. A turbo is what it is. It needs tuned and it needs to be installed with parts that will bring out its potential.
This particular turbo I feel is as good as you are going to get a stock appearing turbo on an EVO.
Looking forward to more boost and a 10 second pass.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
I feel with this turbo I have the ultimate EVO for ME. The car spools extremely fast, as you call can see from the logs. Pulls very hard up top.
Aug 1, 2005, 07:15 AM
#109
Evolved Member
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: NorCal
Posts: 1,779
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'd be curious to see what the turbo can do on an otherwise stock car.
Or even better, an Evo with BPU (exhaust, intake, cams, boost control, and a/f control).
Or even better, an Evo with BPU (exhaust, intake, cams, boost control, and a/f control).
Aug 1, 2005, 08:03 AM
#111
While I am curious, I also think a turbo shouldn't be done until after atleast the other main power producing modifications are done to the car. In other words, Full exhaust, fuel management (flash, AFC whatever), cams, good air intake, FMIC, fuel pump upgrade, boost controller. The same parts you guys listed are the minimum I'd recommend having before upgrading.
It will get tested like that eventually on someone's car, that I am sure of.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
It will get tested like that eventually on someone's car, that I am sure of.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Aug 1, 2005, 08:09 AM
#112
Evolved Member
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: NorCal
Posts: 1,779
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
While I am curious, I also think a turbo shouldn't be done until after atleast the other main power producing modifications are done to the car. In other words, Full exhaust, fuel management (flash, AFC whatever), cams, good air intake, FMIC, fuel pump upgrade, boost controller. The same parts you guys listed are the minimum I'd recommend having before upgrading.
It will get tested like that eventually on someone's car, that I am sure of.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
It will get tested like that eventually on someone's car, that I am sure of.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Aug 1, 2005, 02:28 PM
#113
I have pricing figured out. Talked with the shop today.
IF you send in your good stock turbo we will upgrade it to the 20G for $800. This price includes have to change the back plate, cutting the compressor housing, re-balancing, clipping the turbine wheel and the compressor wheel.
IF you want to upgrade YOUR turbo and add a new 10.5 turbine housing we can do that for $1100. This will be the new '05 style turbo 10.5 with the single wastegate puck.
The turbo brand new using the titanium/aluminide wheel will be $1500.
That's it. The prices may end up a little bit lower before we actually start shipping them, we have a few more things to look into and look at that could save some money.
Thanks guys,
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
BTW, I didn't get a chance to check out the car for boost leaks today.
IF you send in your good stock turbo we will upgrade it to the 20G for $800. This price includes have to change the back plate, cutting the compressor housing, re-balancing, clipping the turbine wheel and the compressor wheel.
IF you want to upgrade YOUR turbo and add a new 10.5 turbine housing we can do that for $1100. This will be the new '05 style turbo 10.5 with the single wastegate puck.
The turbo brand new using the titanium/aluminide wheel will be $1500.
That's it. The prices may end up a little bit lower before we actually start shipping them, we have a few more things to look into and look at that could save some money.
Thanks guys,
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
BTW, I didn't get a chance to check out the car for boost leaks today.
Aug 1, 2005, 03:12 PM
#114
I'd like to see this turbo tested on a stock motor car with cams and alky injection. The cold air intake, AEM, and stage 3 ported head as well as built block are not as common among people looking for 20g's. For now 11.3 is super impressive, but Dave, get this thing on a stock motor car with a relfash, or test with an safc or sumthin.
Aug 1, 2005, 03:52 PM
#116
Evolved Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: SL,UT
Posts: 3,601
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by gsujeff55
I agree. 99% of the consumers in this turbo's market will NOT be running a ported head and sheet metal intake.
Aug 1, 2005, 04:15 PM
#117
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
I have pricing figured out. Talked with the shop today.
IF you send in your good stock turbo we will upgrade it to the 20G for $800. This price includes have to change the back plate, cutting the compressor housing, re-balancing, clipping the turbine wheel and the compressor wheel.
IF you want to upgrade YOUR turbo and add a new 10.5 turbine housing we can do that for $1100. This will be the new '05 style turbo 10.5 with the single wastegate puck.
The turbo brand new using the titanium/aluminide wheel will be $1500.
That's it. The prices may end up a little bit lower before we actually start shipping them, we have a few more things to look into and look at that could save some money.
Thanks guys,
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
BTW, I didn't get a chance to check out the car for boost leaks today.
IF you send in your good stock turbo we will upgrade it to the 20G for $800. This price includes have to change the back plate, cutting the compressor housing, re-balancing, clipping the turbine wheel and the compressor wheel.
IF you want to upgrade YOUR turbo and add a new 10.5 turbine housing we can do that for $1100. This will be the new '05 style turbo 10.5 with the single wastegate puck.
The turbo brand new using the titanium/aluminide wheel will be $1500.
That's it. The prices may end up a little bit lower before we actually start shipping them, we have a few more things to look into and look at that could save some money.
Thanks guys,
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
BTW, I didn't get a chance to check out the car for boost leaks today.
Aug 1, 2005, 04:19 PM
#118
Originally Posted by NOLIMITMOTORS
I'd like to see this turbo tested on a stock motor car with cams and alky injection. The cold air intake, AEM, and stage 3 ported head as well as built block are not as common among people looking for 20g's. For now 11.3 is super impressive, but Dave, get this thing on a stock motor car with a relfash, or test with an safc or sumthin.
Aug 1, 2005, 05:38 PM
#119
Nolimits,
I am not doing any more testing for just the purpose of testing to be honest. When a customer comes in and wants this turbo I will do some testing back to back but until then, it's not going to happen.
GSUJEFF,
I do NOT have a sheetmetal intake on my car, our red car or our new black drag EVO. It is a hand ported stock intake.
UTEVO,
The parts I recommend and the tuning questions were answered already, take a look back a few posts.
I want to shed some light on a couple of things. With the stock turbo on the car I did testing before and after the shortblock and the cylinder head swaps on the car. There were NO power gains to speak of anywhere. I actually made the 393 whp on the stock engine and head, then after the testing was "over" in the dyno thread I had started here, we swapped the engine/head and dyno'd again. No gains. A shortblock, unless you drastically changed something will have no effect on power, durability yet, power no. The head, I really expected to see gains with, my guess on this is with the stock turbo being so used up there was just no additional airflow to be had.
The large change in AFR's with this turbo tell me it is flowing quite a bit more air, the steady boost compared to the 30 psi spikes falling to 20 psi at redline tell me the same thing. In the case of my car nothing changed except for the compressor wheel, the clipped turbine and 10.5 housing I was already running.
Malibu,
Let me find the problem with the boost in my car and as soon as I post what it was you can feel free to send the turbo.
Thanks,
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
I am not doing any more testing for just the purpose of testing to be honest. When a customer comes in and wants this turbo I will do some testing back to back but until then, it's not going to happen.
GSUJEFF,
I do NOT have a sheetmetal intake on my car, our red car or our new black drag EVO. It is a hand ported stock intake.
UTEVO,
The parts I recommend and the tuning questions were answered already, take a look back a few posts.
I want to shed some light on a couple of things. With the stock turbo on the car I did testing before and after the shortblock and the cylinder head swaps on the car. There were NO power gains to speak of anywhere. I actually made the 393 whp on the stock engine and head, then after the testing was "over" in the dyno thread I had started here, we swapped the engine/head and dyno'd again. No gains. A shortblock, unless you drastically changed something will have no effect on power, durability yet, power no. The head, I really expected to see gains with, my guess on this is with the stock turbo being so used up there was just no additional airflow to be had.
The large change in AFR's with this turbo tell me it is flowing quite a bit more air, the steady boost compared to the 30 psi spikes falling to 20 psi at redline tell me the same thing. In the case of my car nothing changed except for the compressor wheel, the clipped turbine and 10.5 housing I was already running.
Malibu,
Let me find the problem with the boost in my car and as soon as I post what it was you can feel free to send the turbo.
Thanks,
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Aug 1, 2005, 08:59 PM
#120
I'd seriously consider this kit Dave! i'd love to see it run 10's first before I consider ordering.
of course for the future, I will do AEM EMS, HKS 272/272, cam gears, fuel pump, alky injection, headstuds, and this 20G turbo... hopefully I can be knocking on 10's as well at 26-27 PSI boost..
of course for the future, I will do AEM EMS, HKS 272/272, cam gears, fuel pump, alky injection, headstuds, and this 20G turbo... hopefully I can be knocking on 10's as well at 26-27 PSI boost..