I have a RRE NN Clutch on for about a year and a half or about 10k miles. NEVER abused, launched maybe once and not very hard.

When i first got the car back with the new clutch I had the same problem most do and it wouldn't shift into gear at high RPM. SO I had a friend adjust the clutch out and eveything was cool. Well as the last year and half have gone by the clutch would engage farther and father out until last week when I went and had a shop put some Hotchkis spring on and I asked him to adjust the engagment back down a little. Well now the clutch feels sloppy and slips and then grabs HARD in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th gears when the car is floored.

What can I do? I checked where the shop that did the springs, moved the clutch rod and nut to underneth the clutch pedal and it looks like it is adjusted all the way down( pulled back all the way to the floor) Is there anything i can do? Please help.

 

Ah sucks...more of a bump here.

I am having the same clutch issues. I am on the stock clutch, and I have adjusted it a few times now. Less treads - less play. And I am almost out of treads. Same issue...it doesnt engage to the very top of the throw, and when it does engage it snaps and grabs.

 

I know that the clutches on Evos do engage up top alot and thats no big deal, you shouldnt have the rod threaded all the way in, loosen it a bit, and if you still get the slipping in the clutch try to bleed your clutch line you might have a lil bit of air in it which would also make it engage higher up.

 

anyone else have any input?

 

My Lord, can't anyone help? Anyone have any ideas?

 

The only time adjustment is going to make any difference at all on how a clutch grabs is when it is adjusted improperly. If you adjust the pedal too high it preloads the master cylinder. It loses it's ability to self-adjust and therefore preloads the pressure plate so it won't engage (grab) all the way. It is just like your foot is sitting on the pedal. Otherwise adjustment has no relation at all to how hard it grabs.

 

Exactly Dirk.

You need just a titch of free play in that clevis pin adjuster rod so that the piston in the master cylinder can return enough to expose balance ports and allow the fluid in the hydraulic circuit to equalize.

If you don't have enough freeplay you can have problems with the clutch engagement point changing from the fluid expanding in the circuit. This will be that clutch that starts out fine but as you drive it the clutch engagement point starts raising up higher & higher and you can really **** the clutch off if you quickly stomp the clutch pedal a few times and over extend the clutch fork & throw-out bearing. This is main reason for breaking clutch forks and causing damage to the spring plate inside that clutch cover.

Now there is the other side of the coin.

Too much freeplay will reduce the distance that the throw-out bearing travels, impeding the shifting of the transmission. That nice low engagement point will make it easier to drive and may feel good to your left foot but it delays the release point of the clutch and ultimately how much room the clutch disc has to do its funky little dance between the flywheel and pressure plate and the end result is the synchros block the shift.

It's all about balance.


Jon@TRE
http://www.teamrip.com/Evolution.html

 

Thank you guys, appreciate it. Too bad I dont have anyone in the DFW area that know crap about EVO and it clutch.