boost gauge needle vibrates badly.. is there a fix?
#1
boost gauge needle vibrates badly.. is there a fix?
When idling the needle on my boost guage vibrates pretty bad in a way its starting to annoy me and makes a rattling noise. Is there any way I can make it not vibrate as much? I have the Defi D guage btw
#2
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Being that's it's a mechanical gauge, you might have a problem elsewhere. I would check all of your vacuum lines to be sure it's the gauge. If it is the gauge, I'd just buy a new one. I'm on my second Defi D boost gauge already.
#3
Originally Posted by Thegame
Being that's it's a mechanical gauge, you might have a problem elsewhere. I would check all of your vacuum lines to be sure it's the gauge. If it is the gauge, I'd just buy a new one. I'm on my second Defi D boost gauge already.
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Im assuming you installed cams when you did your "fully built engine head"? If so, big lopey cams (or even less lopey cams with an improper tune) can give you a ****ty idle which will make your car's boost gauge fluctuate in vacuum while idling.
Im thinking this might be the case?
Im thinking this might be the case?
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I had this problem when I had a mech. VDO gauge on my wrx. Go to the plumbing section of your hardware store and get a male and female npt fittings with barbed ends and put a small piece of cottan inside when you screw them together, not enogh to clog it but enought to restrict alittle bit of the flow. then put that inline with your boost gauge tubing. you can also add 2 sink faucet screens and put them in the fittings so there is no chance of the cotton getting sucked through.
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it is hard to describe - it is something that fits in the line to limit the amount of vacuum signal the gauge is getting. Some gauges are very sensitive to this (GReddy, HKS)< and restrictors are provided when you buy the gauge new. it is not something we sell seperately, but any hardware store should have one. It is shaped like a small pill is usually brass, and fits in the vacuum line and has a hole in the center so air can still pass through it. Since the gauge is just reading air pressure, it does not matter if you have a 4 inch hose giving that signal or a .25 inch hole - it will still read the same as pressure has not changed
#11
Originally Posted by Boltz.
Im assuming you installed cams when you did your "fully built engine head"? If so, big lopey cams (or even less lopey cams with an improper tune) can give you a ****ty idle which will make your car's boost gauge fluctuate in vacuum while idling.
Im thinking this might be the case?
Im thinking this might be the case?
I just need to know how the restrictor pill looks like. anyone have a pic of how it looks like?
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hmmm, I'm having a nasty ratling problem with my gauge too. Anything above 15psi and it just started happening. I got a new gauge and STILL I hear the rattle.
How would the restrictor pill help this problem? I still have the stock restrictors that fit into the stock vac lines, I could just use one of those.
How would the restrictor pill help this problem? I still have the stock restrictors that fit into the stock vac lines, I could just use one of those.
#13
Originally Posted by smp3000
hmmm, I'm having a nasty ratling problem with my gauge too. Anything above 15psi and it just started happening. I got a new gauge and STILL I hear the rattle.
How would the restrictor pill help this problem? I still have the stock restrictors that fit into the stock vac lines, I could just use one of those.
How would the restrictor pill help this problem? I still have the stock restrictors that fit into the stock vac lines, I could just use one of those.
#15
Originally Posted by smp3000
Interesting! I wonder if it will fix my rattling as well? I'm unsure how this would help?
What is it inside the gauge that rattles?
What is it inside the gauge that rattles?