what spark plugs are you running?
#32
reading through this thread, I'd like to make a couple points. Running a colder plug will not make cylinder temperatures run cooler. If the plug is too hot, it will cause preignition, which will bump up cylinder pressures (and knock), but not cylinder temperatures, on a theoritical basis, yes, but it won't be measureable.
Yes, preignition and detonation are different, but the results are the same..... Combustion before you want it, leading to excess cylinder pressure and the subsequent bad things that can happen.
Run the biggest gap your conditions will allow for. A smaller gap doesn't make power, a larger gap makes more power. But a larger gap also causes the misfires. So run the largest gap you can without misfires.
Copper is a better conductor than platinum. Copper makes a better spark, platinum last longer. Platinum will need to have a lower gap generally speaking, and make lower hp. Take your pick, power or longevity. Iridium is a somewhat compromise. Copper is the way to go if you don't mind changing them out regularly.
late addition... hotter plugs won't foul as quickly as colder plugs. If your stock plug isn't causing preignition, it'll last longer than a colder plug before fouling and losing performance.
Yes, preignition and detonation are different, but the results are the same..... Combustion before you want it, leading to excess cylinder pressure and the subsequent bad things that can happen.
Run the biggest gap your conditions will allow for. A smaller gap doesn't make power, a larger gap makes more power. But a larger gap also causes the misfires. So run the largest gap you can without misfires.
Copper is a better conductor than platinum. Copper makes a better spark, platinum last longer. Platinum will need to have a lower gap generally speaking, and make lower hp. Take your pick, power or longevity. Iridium is a somewhat compromise. Copper is the way to go if you don't mind changing them out regularly.
late addition... hotter plugs won't foul as quickly as colder plugs. If your stock plug isn't causing preignition, it'll last longer than a colder plug before fouling and losing performance.
Last edited by dubbleugly01; Nov 15, 2005 at 06:41 PM.
#33
preiginition will destroy your engine at once. And, there is no second chance. and colder spark plugs fight detonation and preignition both. colder spark plugs also helps dissipate some heat of the chamber. you need to choose the right level of plugs for the right mod. NGK recommands one step colder plugs if you add more than 75~100 hp to your engine. BPR7s are just bit colder than stock ones according to AMS.
#35
Originally Posted by taenaive
preiginition will destroy your engine at once. And, there is no second chance. and colder spark plugs fight detonation and preignition both. colder spark plugs also helps dissipate some heat of the chamber. you need to choose the right level of plugs for the right mod. NGK recommands one step colder plugs if you add more than 75~100 hp to your engine. BPR7s are just bit colder than stock ones according to AMS.
#36
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
No, 7s are the stock heat range. Pull the stock ones out, and you will see it written on there plain as day. I"m not sure why some shops claim that the stock heat range is 6, when it's written right on the plug (IGR79A or something like that).
Warrtalon, the protruding tip is what makes it slightly colder than stock. Think of BPR7ES as being a 7.5. Im sure AMS realizes our stock range is 7.
#37
Any inputs on BP8ES plugs? I have them and boosting 30psi with meth gapped at .028 with hks dli2.
What is the maximum gap you can do with the BP8ES with hks dli2?
Anybody using the same plugs?
Thanks
What is the maximum gap you can do with the BP8ES with hks dli2?
Anybody using the same plugs?
Thanks
#38
I have the BPR7ES at .27. I don't have any big problems. I bought the BR8ES to go one and a half steps colder and get rid of the P (protruding electrode) which is 1/2 step hotter.
He is my self made idiots guide to plugs for the EVO. Please PM me if I am wrong so I can change this post.
NGK-
BPR7ES = Copper replacement for stock plugs.
BR7ES = 1/2 step colder
BRP8ES = 1 step colder than stock
BR8ES = 1 1/2 step colder than stock.
Gap .24 - .28 less than than preignition more than that miss-fires..
He is my self made idiots guide to plugs for the EVO. Please PM me if I am wrong so I can change this post.
NGK-
BPR7ES = Copper replacement for stock plugs.
BR7ES = 1/2 step colder
BRP8ES = 1 step colder than stock
BR8ES = 1 1/2 step colder than stock.
Gap .24 - .28 less than than preignition more than that miss-fires..
#39
So you are using the BRES plugs? How do you like it over the the stock iridium plugs?
If I wanted to buy the stock iridum plugs what plugs should it be comaprable to? NGKBP7EIX? Do they have the same characteristcis?
Thanks
If I wanted to buy the stock iridum plugs what plugs should it be comaprable to? NGKBP7EIX? Do they have the same characteristcis?
Thanks
#40
Originally Posted by fsugatorbait
Warrtalon, the protruding tip is what makes it slightly colder than stock. Think of BPR7ES as being a 7.5. Im sure AMS realizes our stock range is 7.
#41
Just an FYI, I believe AutoZone has a one year warranty on all their spark plugs. You can return a set of plugs with receipt for up to one year after purchase and receive a new set. The new set receives the same 1 year warranty so you'll have a year to F*ck those up as well. I use this FREQUENTLY for my RX7's plugs...NGK BGEV10's tend to last about 5K before out of the optimal range and showing significant electrode wear. They HATE me at the local Autozone! They do not have to be the plug designed for your car either.
#42
Originally Posted by Mr. Stock
Just an FYI, I believe AutoZone has a one year warranty on all their spark plugs. You can return a set of plugs with receipt for up to one year after purchase and receive a new set. The new set receives the same 1 year warranty so you'll have a year to F*ck those up as well. I use this FREQUENTLY for my RX7's plugs...NGK BGEV10's tend to last about 5K before out of the optimal range and showing significant electrode wear. They HATE me at the local Autozone! They do not have to be the plug designed for your car either.
#44
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
Holy crap, I'll have to check on that. I go through copper NGKs like candy. I don't mind, since they're cheap, but I'd rather get 'em for free!
I thought you guys would like that :-) I didn't believe it myself at first until I exchanged my first set!
#45
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
I thought the B8RES was half a range colder, not the BPR7ES. Also, when people refer to "colder" than stock, it's universally understood as a full range (6, 7, 8, etc). There are actually Evo vendor websites that claim heat range 6 as being stock. I've had to argue it several times. AMS _may_ be referring to the half heat range thing based on the protruding tip (or lack thereof), but that would be highly confusing to the average Joe, imo.
This was pulled from a similar thread in Dynoflash's forum and what I was referring to.
BUT I have heard that the protruding (BPR7ES) will act like a 1/2 step or so colder than stock. (I forget why but it's somewhere in the abyss of EvoM)