ev08buoy

iTrader: (3)

MOST OF YOU PROBABLY THINK MY IDLE IS JUST LOPEY... IT'S NOT IT'S REALLY BAD TO A POINT YOU CAN'T DRIVE THE CAR! please read!

Ok Ok... I'm dying here... I think I might know the cause of crap idle... When I went back to my local shop my mechanic told me dude I thought you were just being a pus$y about the idle but you were right it's really bad and undriveable.

He set my HKS cam gears at -4/-1.5 It seemed to help very minimal on the idle.. I think all cam gears really do is move horsepower and torque but something in there has to deal with the idle as well.

Anyways...

I THINK MY IDLE IS $HIT BECAUSE OF THE TUNE!

I'm running extremely rich.. I can't measure the a/f ratio because I don't have a wideband. I see bits of raw fuel spraying out my exhaust. Black smoke coming out my exhaust when its driving off. (I have'nt got to see my car drive off without me in it)

When I got my ECU flashed with a custom tune I noticed it was dynoed at 11.2 on the a/f ratio.. isn't that safe?

Now... with the S AFC which I almost sold! I hooked it back up and I was able to lean out the idle... or atleast I think I did because I'm not a expert using the S AFC.

I set at 800 rpms -27%. It seems my car idles ok now... but still not perfect or near perfect.. I can drive again!!!

I can reverse and creep up forward and not stall out... the idle does dip down to 600 sometimes but SO MUCH BETTER THAN BEFORE.

MY CEL IS NOT A MISFIRE CODE... IT'S BECAUSE MY FRONT 02 SENSOR IS NOT WORKING!!! Do you guys think running rich like this fouled the 02 sensor in the front? Is so it's going to cost me a big wot of cash to replace it.

I still have a problem.. When I first start my car.. it dies a few times before I can keep it running and have it warm up.. then its DRIVABLE however with a lopey *** idle.

I'm still running my HKS vta but as soon as I get some more cash I'm switching to a recirculating BOV... I DONT UNDERSTAND WHY THAT HURTS MY IDLE.. when I start my car the BOV is taking no action. Even if I can cap off the BOV the idle is still like **** after I pull the throttle.

My idle screw was turned up way too high... the screw was almost about the fall off!... I turned it back down to stock.

Do you guys think my tune is causing my car to idle like $hit this way?!

Everyone who has been following me on solving this problem.. Thanks! The more support the better, Someone who know's how to tune the S AFC is more than welcome for any suggestions.

RyanM

iTrader: (1)

Nope, you didn't lean out the idle. The SAFC has no effect at that RPM/Throttle position. If you activiated the idle stabilizer functionality that might be helping you out (but as far as I know that doesn't work for our cars--I run an EIDS and I have an SAFC)

11.2 is way out of whack....

Did you do injectors or a fuel rail?

ev08buoy

iTrader: (3)

nope.. no injectors or fuel rail. I do have walboro fuel pump.. but I don't think I need injectors.. maybe they are maxed out however.

I remember when I was on the dyno I was 11.2 a/f and that's how they kept it for me.

*EDIT* do you guys think I'm better off.. first off all.. ditching the HKS VTA BOV and then getting a complete ECU reflash.. because the tuning is causing my bad drivability? (IT HAS BEEN CUSTOM TUNED after all my mods except CAM GEARS which doesnt make much of a difference anyway.)

EVO8LTW

iTrader: (41)

A bad O2 sensor could cause these problems. Replace that and then see. The tune shouldn't change the AFR at idle when the car is in closed loop unless it's really badly off (like for a completely different size injector).

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

Am I missing something here? The S-AFC very much has an effect at this rpm and throttle position. There is an entire low-throttle map that is in effect below the low-throttle position (mine is 25%, so it's always in effect below 25% TPS). The RPM at which it is in effect depends on where you set your NE-points. If you have it set at 600, 800, 1000, 1200, well that's definitely going to affect your low-throttle IDLE characteristics. This is easy to test, because you can add a lot of fuel or remove a lot of fuel and hear the idle change as the car tries to compensate.

Also, 11.2 is not way out of whack. It's not even a little bit out of whack. 11.2 is good for daily driving. It's safe while not being rich. I personally tune myself closer to 11.5-11.7 for daily driving, but 11.2 is certainly ok for a flash.

EVO3675

You said the idle changed when you changed position of the cam gears?If so it sounds like your cams might be out of time!also the front o2 not working will cause the computer to limp and richen the fuel mixture badly.ONe other thing the mass air talks back and forth with the computer and 02 might want to check it to,,,,,and hopefully you didnt do the old trick of removing the honeycomb from the mass air it will cause very bad idle,another thing check for air leaks in pipes on the intake and charge sides,this can cause a lobeing affect ,,hope this helps

ev08buoy

iTrader: (3)

I didn't know you could adjust 600.. I went as far as 800 and that's it... I'm very newb with the AFC so I didn't want to go all out crazy with it... I did lean out my idle but that shouldn't affect anything bad because there's no load at idle.

I think I may be able to fix this with the S AFC but... I wish there was someone really close to me that could tune my S AFC. GOOD THING I DIDNT SELL IT!

CT is too far for me to go there all the time...

If 11.2 is good... is it ok that I maybe experiencing alot of black smoke from my exhaust and bits of raw fuel spraying?.... because 11.2 was measured on the dyno but I don't know what it is on the streets... probably doesn't change anyway

Also... leaning out the idle... it seems to be fairly drivable after the car has warmed up.. but trying to warm up the car it stalls a few times until I can get it to warm up the engine.. causing the engine to shake dramastically.

Another thing.. the idle is extremely lopey (maybe even more than before) but doesnt stall out the car like how it did before..

ev08buoy

iTrader: (3)

bump.............................................. .......................

MYEVOVIII

iTrader: (35)

If your front 02 sensor is not working this is most likely your cause or your cam gears are way out of tune. I dont see how your tuning would have any effect on this it only works in open loop mode and if it was 11.2 afr on the dyno it is most likely the front 02 sensor reading bad as others have noted and this in turn is richening up your A/f big time.
Best of luck!

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

If your car's O2 sensor isnt working, the car will run in open loop at idle, depending on the tune and the mods to the car, it'll probably run really rich (my car idles 10:1 or so if I force it into open loop)

Verify your O2 sensor isn't working, also use an OBD-II scanner and check the real-time data to see if its running in closed loop or open loop at idle.. Also check the CEL code to see what aspect of the O2 sensor isn't working.. But unfortunately if its the sensor itself it could be hosed..

Before you get too crazy, is your S-AFC wired into the O2 sensor wiring for any reason, early on we used the spare input on the s-afc to monitor O2 voltage, but frequently people would cut the wire to the O2 sensor and of course, it wouldn't function correctly anymore, so check that out.. For the hell of it, if your using a plug and play harness with the S-AFC, you can just remove the whole harness and plug the ECU back in.... IF the car runs normally then look at the wiring, if its still idling poorly then unfortunately you may have to replace the sensor.

ev08buoy

iTrader: (3)

Great... so I'll have my 02 sensor replaced... I think that costs about 500 bucks right

Won't it foul up again running rich?...

I doubt my cam gears are bad.. How can I tell if they were degreed correctly? I told the local shop to set -4 intake and -1.5 exhaust and they look great.. but it seems like all they do is look great

I gotta put a end to this and be able to drive my car again!

It has been ok.. killer not driving my car all week... its been pouring in NE the whole week so that gives me a better feeling not being able to go out.. but soon enough good weather will be back and I need to get this back on the road asap.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

Well, its running rich because the O2 sensor may be bad.. But it stopped working for another reason (race gas, damage due to vibration or something else) Like I said.. Check the real-time values from the ECU using an OBD-II scanner tool, It has the fuel trim info, O2 sensor voltage, and whether or not the car is running closed loop.. If you see anything unusual, then it could be a bad sensor.

ev08buoy

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for all the posts... I'm going to have to try all of the things you guys mentioned asap.


I did have the CEL scanned... and erased... it comes back after 30 mins of driving. I don't know what the code was.. only told that it was front 02 sensor non activity or something rather.

You know.. when I just start the car.. it starts really rough.. one time it even stalled out 3 times trying to warm up... when the car is fully warmed up and idling.. it idles pretty good.. every few mins I get a small dip to 600-700 rpms... livable.


Once I start moving and stop and go stop and go like if I was simulating I was in traffic then the car will idle horrible and stall out.

First thing I might try before I replace that 02 sensor is ofcourse make sure it is what it is... but I'm going to buy a new upper IC pipe w/ a recirculating BOV... I just need to wait to get paid!

ev08buoy

iTrader: (3)

As soon as I finish writing a reply.. I see you post before me

Well.. anyways.. I'm glad you mention the closed loop thing.. I def. will look more into that.. Thanks!

GOKOU

iTrader: (2)

Fuel pump check??