USP45

iTrader: (13)

Well, I have a 2.3, WR and 272's. I do not see how anyone can sit here and say that the WR is too small for a 2.3 if they have never ridden in one or experienced it for themselves. I start to spool at 2200-2300 and hit 20 lbs at 2600-2700. I have done some tuning myself but it has not been on the dyno yet, however Shiv will be in Dallas to tune on Nov 12-13 so I will actually know what it is putting out then. But I can tell you that it hits like a freight train and is a lot of fun to drive on the street. And I do not think that it is falling off much at the top end. When Shiv tunes it I will have him bump up the boost some, and my AFR's are sitting at 10.7-11.0 right now, so he may lean it out some. But I cannot express how it feels down low, it is super responsive and the lag is all but gone. Maybe a 3071 would get a little bit more top end HP, but I like the responsivness. It starts to break all four loose from a full throttle roll on in first, it just HITS. I know that the general consensus has been to go with something larger then a WR, but for real world and track driving it is a hell of a combination.

sleet

iTrader: (9)

You only run 20PSI on the WR? Also what do you rev to and do you hold boost the entire time?

Ivan_C

iTrader: (4)

Hmm sweet, yeah that's the thought I had, most people haven't ridden in a bunny powered car. I might end up just keeping it, though speed is addictive.

I don't have my stroker in yet, just got the rods today. So I'm a few weeks away from being able to put full boost power down.

USP45

iTrader: (13)

For right now only 20 psi, I am going to wait until Shiv tunes it to bump up the boost as I just do not want to risk a rookie tuning mistake right now. And it does hold 20 psi up to at least 7500 rpm, I just have not gone over that yet. Actually, I do not think that I will go above 7800 or so, I just do not need it.

I do think that it will hold more boost through redline though, I am NOWHERE near maxed out in the boost table, actually I am only at arond 65% boost solenoid at the upper end and this is on a 2.3 with a semi ported head (really just cleaned up the bowls and removed all casting flash/cleaned up the chambers) with 1mm larger valves in/ex. When you take the head and the larger displacement into consideration I think that the WR is holding its own....

GraphiteMR

iTrader: (1)

Huh, the stock turbo 10.5cm2 hotside equipped unit can hold 23psi to 8000rpms with 280 cams, lower ic pipe and FMIC. Doubting that the WR could hold 20psi is weak.

I have logs btw.

USP45

iTrader: (13)

I do not doubt that it can, but how far out of its efficiency range is it? What do the IAT's look like? I have first hand experience of how far out it is and how hot the IAT's are. I can put up a picture of the fist sized holes it but in both sides of my block as proof. And I would love to see the stock turbo hold 23 psi on a 2.3 with headwork to 8000 RPM's. But this thread is not supposed to be another WR pissing contest, so lets just drop it. If you are happy with the stock turbo and it is working for you then that is good, there is no reason for you to spend any money on a larger turbo. I am not here to argue, just posting up some information.

GraphiteMR

iTrader: (1)

Efficiency is less important when you have an adequate boost cooling setup. A proper sized fmic and water/alcohol injection will deter 97% of knock even outside of the compressor's effieciency range where it can still create additional power. I am sorry you blew your motor.

CoachG

iTrader: (4)

Mmmm...Jun 272s....mmm...

USP45

iTrader: (13)

Yep, it sucked, but you should have seen the looks on the faces of the kids as I went by their bus and then it let loose! I am talking straight out of a NASCAR race....smoke everywhere and chunks of block/piston bouncing down the road behind me. It was breathtaking.

Anyway, I do not know if I want to run an injection system yet, ever one that I have personally seen to date has had problems. If I start to hear that they are becoming reliable then maybe..... 500 whp and instant spool would be nice!

NDgsx

How many people posting actually have a 2.3 that have run different cams? No one?

How many people have run different turbos on a 2.3? One person?

I just find it interesting that people that have never run anything being talked about don't preface their post with the fact that it's all just their OPINIONS.
I ran 272s on my 2.4 last year and then switched to the FP3 cams when they came out this last winter. With no other changes I gained over 4mph from the cams. The FP3s have a very aggressive ramp profile and hold the valve near full lift for a longer period of time than any other cam I've seen on the market. These were designed specifically for the piston acceleration rates when using a 100mm stroke crank, something HKS and the other cam manufacturers have NOT done.
They do require stiff dual valve springs, the only sets that I've seen that will work are the Ferrea or Supertech duals.

I've run a BR 20G, FP3052 (GT30R), GT14 (GT35R comp wheel with a GT30 turbine wheel), and a FP3575 (garrett T67 with a T350 turbine wheel) personally.
The 20G and GT14 both had 7cm turbine housings which were way to small IMO. They both lacked top end power. The 20G died above 5.5k, and the GT14 made no power past 25psi of boost.
The FP housing kicked *** all over the old mitsu garbage. The 3052 was awesome on pump gas. I ran it the day before I pulled my head to replace the leaking cometic I had, at 14psi of boost with a whopping 3 degrees of timing advance (trying to not push coolant badly) it went 12.01 at 115. Not too shabby for 14lbs

I say since you already have the WR just run it, you can upgrade that later.

IPS Mike

iTrader: (1)

i agree completely.

we are working on some dyno numbers for piper cams. some different comparisons between 264's 272's and the 280 hks vs 290 piper. i can tell you that i will be running their drag race cam with the 2.3 motor for next year.

We'll let the numbers speak for themselves but i have a very good feeling about the piper set-up.

Ted B

iTrader: (6)

FWIW, the FP3 cams are an off-the-shelf comp cams item, and I find nothing in the literature that indicates it was designed explicitly for a stroker motor. The manufacturer's description lists it as "4G63 2.0L".

Not that it really mattered.

mikiblueeyes

iTrader: (7)

Inyeresting, thats exactly what i am going to have. By the way Joeycoats, you didnt specify what cams you use for your setup?

And also that FP3 cams how do they idle comparing to HKS I dont think many people had experience with those yet. 4 mile trap speed with 272 vs FP3s are usually equates to about 30-50 HP depending at what initial traps were.

By the wa if someone like David Buschur or Al from Dynoflash can share his insights on this subject I would really appreciate it.!!!

MyCre8n=Evlshn

You won't have a better result that going with Piper racing cams. Your idle is going to be slightly lumpy with any of the aggressive cams, but for big torque and fast spool, you should really be looking at aggressive lift. For that, the Piper racing cams, with 12mm of lift (11 for HKS) will be the best. The duration is still 272 but your springs will keep up, especially if you use Piper springs (they recommend those with the cams) or some dual springs. Everyone has been using HKS 272's over here, but in the rest of the world they're getting the best results with Piper's profile for more low end and faster spool. Your idle depends really quite a bit on tuning and the idle can get really pretty smooth with careful tuning. No difference in idle, from what I've heard between HKS 272 and Piper. I don't think you want to go with 280's ... I think that's too long of duration and the reason most aren't going with that long of a duration. You might also be running into too much overlap with 280's but I don't know that, it's just my speculation as overlap was a concern with 272's and most people found it just barely wasn't a problem (from what I remember).

NDgsx

FWIW you should call comp and FP before saying they are an off the shelf item. The centerline, at least on the DSM cams, is different for the FP cams.
The reason you don't find anything in their "literature" is because they go into absolutely no detail. Why don't you call the company that comp worked with to design the cams, which would be FP, and find out for yourself.