Zemo

iTrader: (1)

I searched, and I found some good info, but I still have some questions.....

Just got a TRE tranny and an Exedy Cerametallic clutch put in.

Clutch pedal feel is much stiffer than it was, but that's fine, and I know that's due to the heavy duty clutch.

When I got the car back from the local shop, the clutch was adjusted to engage immediately off the floor, and the last 1/2 or so of the pedal travel was free play...I figured that wasn't right, and it didn't feel right. Also, the transmission still felt pretty hard to get into gears, not buttery smooth like I heard the TRE tranny should be. I figure this just verify's that the clutch wasn't disengaging all the way.

I adjusted the clutch so it engages a couple inches off the floor, but I still have a good inch or so of free play in the pedal. The transmission feels better, but still sorta notchy. Should be effortless to get into gears, right? I know the tranny is great, TRE does great work and I know it. Could there still be some clutch adjustment issues? Is my short shifter causing problems?

Should I take all the free play out so the clutch engages really high? That'd garuntee the clutch is disengaging completely, but it sorta feels awkward to have the clutch engage that high...I mean, I'm sure I'd get used to it.

Basically, I wanna have this car set up PERFECT, and adjust myself until it feels natural.

Thanks in advance!

Zemo

iTrader: (1)

No one knows what their clutch should be properly set at?

DaGuL

iTrader: (1)

Did you check out TRE's website? They have tips on how to adjust the clutch properly... That should give you a better idea where to adjust the clutch pedal to and their recommended amount of free play in the pedal...

Just my .02 =>

GEARS

iTrader: (5)

Yes several know how to adjust the clutch, yet several don't....


Get rid of the freeplay. Not all of it, you'll need just a titch to make sure the master cylinder is returning all the way so the balance port inside the master cylinder will be exposed. This allows the hydraulic fluid to balance between master & slave. Too little freeplay and the clutch engagement point will move around. Too much freeplay and the transmission won't like you.

Several have found improved clutch release by using the stainless steel braided clutch lines and using that short clutch rod. Ask those who sell them to better explain it.

As for how the transmission should feel when you shift it, it will NOT feel like a spoon in a bowl of soup. Transmissions are supposed to have some feedback so the driver knows what is going on in the real word as opposed to Grand Turismo type video games.... The transmission will feel a little tight, like it should until the new parts seat themselves in and during this time in no way should you be; racing it, shifting fast or shifting at high rpms.

Mr. Motoman's "beat the s#!t out of it" approach does not work when it comes to how to treat your transmission.

Nearly 99% of the time whenever a concern arises over the notchiness of a transmission it's because the clutch is not adjusted correctly.

Remove the excess free play.

PM me if you have more questions.

Jon@TRE
http://www.teamrip.com/Evolution.html

Zemo

iTrader: (1)

Thanks DaGul and Jon! I'll adjust the clutch a bit higher then, take more of that free play out. I've got a braided clutch line, so no worries there! The clutch rod though....I'll look into that. Any idea where to look? :-)

Thanks for the response on the tranny feedback! I know I should be feeling the tranny, but I don't know how much, especially as compared to how much I felt it before I sent the tranny to you. And no worries, I'm keeping it below 4k! below 3k 90% of the time. I'm being nice!

I'll adjust it first thing and report back here!

Zemo

iTrader: (1)

BTW - Jon, thanks for the tranny! Awesome work! It feels great even now, in low rpms and easy driving.

In case you hadn't already made the connection, mine was the one with the cracked tooth on the first gear input shaft. You put the '06 5th gear in there. Thanks!

-Ty Morita

4ringturncoat

iTrader: (21)

Lancershop has the clutch extender rod you need (actually 1/4" shorter and made of stainless steel). I would put that in, you said you already have a clutch line so just make sure it is bleed properly. Go to Autozone and get a speed bleader for the slave and blead her till you think it is done and then bleed it a few more times. Go slow with the bleeding, add the rod and you should be in good shape. You can put the car on jackstand and start it up with the clutch fully depressed to see if it really is disenguaging all the way.

This is one of the main reasons I am going to try the Tilton twin b/c I am a little leary of how the Exedy twin ceramic disingauges when it is hot after a hard drag launch. Otherwise I really like the clutch and it has held up well.

One other quick way to know if it working right is reverse will be easy to get into and not have the do the 2nd gear trick to get it in.

KazzEvo8

iTrader: (2)

Removing the clutch restrictor "pill" from the clutch slave cylinder will give you more direct shifting. It also will allow more immediate shock to your transmission so don't slam it - that means less slippage. Instructions are on evomoto.com within the clutch bleeding instructions: http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tPath=2&tech_id=17

These mods are "free" and I'd suggest them before getting a new rod, etc. Pedal adjustment is a necessity also! Do it right!

Good luck!

4ringturncoat

iTrader: (21)

If you are going to do it right then GET THE ROD! As far as I am concerend it should be shipped with the clutch. I am not talking out of my a** here, I have been using and adjusting this clutch for 18 months now and am pretty familiar with it. You can make it work without the rod but why? How much do new sychros cost, a rod it like $25. Or hell for that matter cut you own rod down a 1/4" and call it good but either way do the rod.

As far as removing the pill, do it if you are going to be aware that it will put more stress on the tranny, but with the Exedy twin in there the clutch will easily KILL any tranny out there even with the pill in there. I took mine out and it did seem to help with clutch modulation.

AlwaysinBoost

iTrader: (17)

Sorry to thread jack but I have some questions & comments;

I have the twin semi-metallic from exedy and I haven't been very happy with it's performance since day one. With the stock clutch I was able to pull consistant low-mid 1.7 60' times and it made no noise what so ever. I do a good amount of drag racing and after over 30,000 miles and over 100 1/4mile passes it gave up the ghost. I have no regrets though, it lasted long enough considering the abuse I put it through. So I did some research and went with the Exedy Twin, the best 60' I've been able to get with the Exedy is a mid 1.8 after a bunch of passes. I also don't feel like it shifts as fast as the stocker does, and there are a bunch more chattering and groaning noises during engaugment.

I've adjusted the clutch pedal a couple of times like people have suggested but it hasn't helped much if any. I just recently purchased a SS clutch line which I'll install in a few and I was planning on removing the restrictor pill at that time.

The question I have is what is the performance advanage of the shorter rod for the slave cylinder? I think my pedal travel is "ok" where its at, I'm just looking for a smoother and more consistant engaugment.
thanks

4ringturncoat

iTrader: (21)

Get the rod in and get the restrictor out of there that will help. The rod will allow the clutch to travel a little further on the disengagement side, our cars have plenty of travel it just need to be in the right part of the travel window. Here is the important thing for anybody trying to adjust this clutch...PUT THE CAR ON JACKSTANDS AND BE SURE THE CLUTCH IS FULLY DISINGUAGING. It is the most important thing to making this clutch perform the way it should. Also, if you have trouble getting into reverse then there is a problem with it disengaging.

As far as 60' times this clutch should be better then the stocker. Are you spinning more with the Exedy? Try a lighter feathering of the clutch, if you do it right the car will squat and really hook up, if you let it out to quick you will spin. Lower your tire pressure down to 18 lbs in the rear that should help with it hooking up.

Zemo

iTrader: (1)

Already got the SS clutch line and restricter valve removed, R is no problem to get into. I'll look into the clutch rod, thanks!

AlwaysinBoost

iTrader: (17)

I'm not spinning or bogging on the launch, once and a while my back end will kickout when the track is slick but for the most part it just hooks and goes.

I'll order the rod and re-adjust the engaugement like you suggest on jack stands... hopefully that should do the trick. I don't have any problems with reverse or any other gear really, just that I can't 60' worth a crap now.

AlwaysinBoost

iTrader: (17)

I just installed the SS clutch line and removed the restrictor this afternoon. Went through the bleeding process about 12 times and made sure I got all the air out. I also adjusted the clutch rod again to get the best enguagement I could and now only have about 4 threads left on it. I didn't order the shorter rod for the slave, but after doing all this stuff I think I am going to, just to see if it makes it better.

Shifting now feels more precise and controlled but taking off in first I still get a chatter & vibration kind of like the car wants to stall. A problem that just manifested itself after the install is occasionally getting locked out of all the gears when stopped. This only happens sometimes and its usually all the gears that are blocked, however if the car is rolling (like 1-2mph) I can usually slide it into 1st gear like butter .

4ringturncoat

iTrader: (21)

Get the rod in there and then let us know how it is doing. Did you go very slow on the bleeding? It never hurts to do it again a day or two after the first time. Let me know.