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piecing a stroker kit together..opinions please

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Old Nov 9, 2005, 11:36 PM
  #16  
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And yes I know I am 18 but my dad who has a high horsepower supra is going to help me with all of this. I it his car I just drive it around and use it. I am lucky. We plan on bringing things that make the supra such a powerful car and bring it to the Evo. This project will take a couple of years just like the supra did. But we do take long because we like to do things once and only once. And only buy quality parts
Old Nov 9, 2005, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by timzcat
3240 knows a thing or 2 about parts that will hold up under a lot of power.
I want to know why you went back to 2.0? IS the project still alive?
The project is alive and well but we did have a major set back. We experimented with a fuel called "Powermist" that claims to be over 120 octane and have a 20% oxygen content. During tuning we experienced huge detonation that destroyed the Toda stroker pistons and did some damage to the head. I'm not blaming the fuel but we were told by the manufacturer, after the fact, that unlike most racing fuels you want to run this mixture very rich. Needless to say we're going back to good ole VP120.

Since we needed to build a new engine anyways we looked at several options. Since the supercharger took care of the low end power we decided that a stroker engine wasn't needed and we'd be better off taking advantage of a higher rev limit. This left us with two option; a destroked Magnus 2.1L or a built 2.0L. The 2.1L sounded very interesting but since it is based upon the 4g64 block we were afraid that all of the plumbing might not bolt up without some modifications, a road that we didn't want to travel. This left us with the 2.0L as an option.

I considered and spoke with several engine builders and AMS was by far the most helpful and most responsive. They have also proven themselves over and over again. AMS is currently building a 2.0L and head for us with several custom "tweaks." The engine will be done late next week. Hopefully we'll be back on the dyno for tuning within two to three weeks.
Old Nov 9, 2005, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by EFIxMR
my buddy is running cp pistons in his 10.30 @ 140 mph del sol. with over 50 passes on the engine the pistons are holding up good.

the power its currently at is 580-600 whp or so. i don't think cp pistons are junk. they are well proven in the sport compact market. we run them on our SFWD hondas all the time.

when pistons go bad its usually a sign of a bad tune. the only bad design piston i've seen is when manufacturers make the valve relief too deep and too close to the pistons outer circumference which makes it a weak spot.

people tell me that cp pistons is founded by ex je employees.
I have also heard this. I cant bash these pistons cause I have no experience with them. I have seen to supra's that have had their pistons destroyed. and they were cp. It could be the tune. but they run je and the tuner is the same. But Ryan woon and his 1400 hp supra have cp pistons.
Old Nov 9, 2005, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Boost Freak
And yes I know I am 18 but my dad who has a high horsepower supra is going to help me with all of this. I it his car I just drive it around and use it. I am lucky. We plan on bringing things that make the supra such a powerful car and bring it to the Evo. This project will take a couple of years just like the supra did. But we do take long because we like to do things once and only once. And only buy quality parts
That's the best way to do it. Have fun and good luck.
Old Nov 9, 2005, 11:46 PM
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Im just doing some research for now but will be getting one soon. I prefer to get new parts when it comes to engine internals. I was told piecing your own kit is the best because its cheaper and you get to pick the best parts Just by looking at some of the kits out there I dont think there are that many parts so piecing one together shouldnt be that difficult. What else do I need to make it a complete kit? Crank, piston , rod and bearing...am I missing anything else? BTW my car should have about 15k miles on it when I do go 2.3

I really dont know much about CP pistons but my friend did said they are top notch and that I should get those. He told me to stay away from Wesico and Eagle..told me they are crap(sarcasm). I was hoping maybe some of you who are more experience can give me some tips.

Thanks

Last edited by Derek888; Nov 9, 2005 at 11:50 PM.
Old Nov 9, 2005, 11:51 PM
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I have heard from Honda guys that eagle is not that great but I am just repeating what I have heard. The CP pistons I have seen. and that is proof for me.
Old Nov 9, 2005, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Derek888
Im just doing some research for now but will be getting one soon. I prefer to get new parts when it comes to engine internals. I was told piecing your own kit is the best because its cheaper and you get to pick the best parts Just by looking at some of the kits out there I dont think there are that many parts so piecing one together shouldnt be that difficult. What else do I need to make it a complete kit? Crank, piston , rod and bearing...am I missing anything else? BTW my car should have about 15k miles on it when I do go 2.3

I really dont know much about CP pistons but my friend did said they are top notch and that I should get those. He told me to stay away from Wesico and Eagle..told me they are crap. I was hoping maybe some of you who are more experience can give me some tips.

Thanks
The AMS kit with Oliver rods and Ross pistons is tough to beat. Compression will be based upon the type of turbo, fuel, and amount of boost that you'd like to run. Between 8.5:1 and 9:1 is typical. You're also going to need some head work.
Old Nov 10, 2005, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 3240
The AMS kit with Oliver rods and Ross pistons is tough to beat. Compression will be based upon the type of turbo, fuel, and amount of boost that you'd like to run. Between 8.5:1 and 9:1 is typical. You're also going to need some head work.
I already have a fully built race head. I do plan on running a GT35R with alky injection...probably 26-28...30psi max. Does AMS use the 4g64 crank? On their website it says they use Eagle rods....
Old Nov 10, 2005, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 3240
No need to cryo treat a Crower crank, titanium rods, and /or JE pistons IMO. What do you mean by "coating?"
We are planing to build the ultimate engine. We are going to use the crower crank crower titanium rods and JE pistons

The pistons are going to be custom JE pistons with a compression ratio of 8.5:1 with a .20 over bore. With JE wrist pins and are going to be cryo treated and the tops are going to be coated with Calico's CT2 metallic ceramic coating and the skirts are going to be treated with Calico's CT3 matrix-flouropolymer high stress coating.

The rods are going to be titanium crower rods and are going to be cryo treated and coated with CT5 flouropolymer oil shedding coating to reduce drag.

And the crank is going to be a crower crank with a stroke a little bit bigger then the 4g64 crank. Its going to be knife-edged and cryo created and coated again with CT5 flouropolymer oil shedding coating to reduce drag.

The block is going to be polished and honed and have some other things done to it . Some people say this part is not really a big deal but we are building a race engine and if it makes the engine last longer then we are all for it. Its has been done to the supra and its going on 40,000 miles of really harsh driving and nothing has happened.

all the bearings are going to be coated with calico's CT1 Teflon based coating.

This is just the block not the head or any other things, lol. Don't expect for this Evo to be out for a while cause it is going to cost some $$$$$. If you want to know what the head of the engine is going to consist of I will tell some things.

And good luck with you stroker engine and sorry for hijacking this thread.
Old Nov 10, 2005, 01:37 AM
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Originally Posted by timzcat
No offense taken. I just know what I have seen of CP as of late.
One's experiences are a drop in the ocean. It is also human nature to blame components when it is poor tolerance, inappropriate clearances, assembly error, tuning error, operation error, that are more likely to cause failures. Even in high quality builds, under very tight controls, the situation is the same. I could list numerous examples but that would be even more long winded. In the last 10 failures I have seen, all 10 were eventually diagnosed to have been caused by factors other than poor component quality.

What is ironic though is that there was about no one talking to CP at thier SEMA booth like everytime I walked by.
Which would be strange because there were lots of people talking to CP at PRI - which is the largest race industry trade show in the world.

=======

I really do not think we should put down a brand till 1) we are sure that it was absolutely nothing else that caused the failure 2) there are a substantial anumber of failure reports from a wide range of users.


Respectfully,
Shaun

Last edited by Shaun@SG; Nov 10, 2005 at 01:58 AM.
Old Nov 10, 2005, 01:40 AM
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Originally Posted by EFIxMR
my buddy is running cp pistons in his 10.30 @ 140 mph del sol. with over 50 passes on the engine the pistons are holding up good.

the power its currently at is 580-600 whp or so. i don't think cp pistons are junk. they are well proven in the sport compact market. we run them on our SFWD hondas all the time.

when pistons go bad its usually a sign of a bad tune. the only bad design piston i've seen is when manufacturers make the valve relief too deep and too close to the pistons outer circumference which makes it a weak spot.
I'm tired of agreeing with you.
Old Nov 10, 2005, 01:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 3240
Since the supercharger took care of the low end power we decided that a stroker engine wasn't needed and we'd be better off taking advantage of a higher rev limit. This left us with two option; a destroked Magnus 2.1L or a built 2.0L. The 2.1L sounded very interesting but since it is based upon the 4g64 block we were afraid that all of the plumbing might not bolt up without some modifications, a road that we didn't want to travel. This left us with the 2.0L as an option.

I considered and spoke with several engine builders and AMS was by far the most helpful and most responsive. They have also proven themselves over and over again. AMS is currently building a 2.0L and head for us with several custom "tweaks." The engine will be done late next week. Hopefully we'll be back on the dyno for tuning within two to three weeks.
Regardless of FI form, if power is your target, you should be running > 2.0 - especially if you are not endurance racing.

Power comes from massflow. A small engine turning high RPM is the most stressful way to go about flowing mass.
Old Nov 10, 2005, 01:53 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Shaun@SG
I really do not think we should put down a brand till 1) we are sure that it was absolutely nothing else that caused the failure 2) there are a substantial amount of failure reports from a wide range of users.
He is right about that. I am not going to tell somebody that they should not buy this or that cause I have seen or read about how its not good. There are so many reasons things fail. I go with what I have learned and was I have used, If something does not work try something else. Its called trial and error. I am not going to say CP sucks cause they don't. Peter Blach and his 1000+ HP supra run them(He sold that car) And Ryan Woon has a Titan 3.4L stroker that has 1400+ HP and runs CP pistons. Both great examples of these pistons. I have used JE and so has My father. And we have never had a failure. So I am going With what I trust and have used.
Old Nov 10, 2005, 02:05 AM
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Boost Freak, since you say you are building the ultimate engine, you should look into some Carrillo rods. Get all your machining done at Cosworth in California. Check if they'll assemble it for you too. If they do, use them. Get your heads flow tested there too for a no-BS report.

Last edited by Shaun@SG; Nov 10, 2005 at 02:08 AM.
Old Nov 10, 2005, 02:35 AM
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That's funny, I was planning on using cosworth when I get all the parts and get them coated. I was going to use carillo rods but has been using crower rods without a failure. And have been also using the titanium rods in the supra. So has a member of supra forums. He goes by the name of fabio or something, lol. And he lives in Italy. But if I use both rods and crank from crower also I can get a discount. The head of the car is going to be 1 of a kind when we get done with it.


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