Thank you for doing this testing, Tim!! The information is invaluable to those of us like myself who are currently researching and shopping for cams...

 

so what is the impression? will these cams work on a stock intake and WR turbo?
I have an aftermarket emc for the idle.

 

I'd like to know this too. I plan on doing cams and a evo IX 20g turbo in January, and I am undecided on what cams to get. I am leaning towards revolvers, but I am not positive. I plan on using the car for road racing/ daily driving which makes me like the revolvers for their torque gains. I have ECU+ for the EMS.

 

WOW!!! this thread died quick...

 

Bump for Timzat's thoughts.

THese cams with a closer to stock engine with just bolt ons.

Also, what kind of cam gear timing did you settle on?

 

Bump. I'd like to know this too. I have some decisions to make, and I want as much info as possible. I am leaning towards these cams though because of their high lift.

 

I'm waiting on stock head results also... Revolver had posted up somewhere what cam gear settings where geared more toward "good" idle. However, I was told they have not had a tuned set stall on them on a stock head. I don't have the revolver cams in at this time, so I can't say anything about there performance/characteristics really. The springs/retainers are still out of Revolver stock until probably the end of this week. If anyone wants to buy a set on the merit of what they have seen so far, PM me. However, even though I'm speculating that they will be "the hot ticket kit" for the money, I stress that I have no personal knowledge at this point.

 

I have installed 2 sets and unless they are tuned and geared properly they will not idle and they do stall out ALOT. This was on stock head/intake manifold Evos without tune. These cams are and should be considered race cams. Even if the cam gears are adjusted accordingly you may get a better idle and you may loose the gains up top. I dont think that comparing any HKS cam , which are made for the street, is fair against a race cam like the Revolver which have like no vacuum even at 1000rpm idle. Im sure they are great for a race car though. Im also sure that HKS can produce a full race cam with better lift that could compare to these. By the way Zeus, the spring compressor that Tim showed is excellent. In order to not damage the cam cap dowels I simply place a few washers over them to give me enough clearance to not contact them. I've used this many times with zero issues. You should also order a few extra retainer locks since they are known to go flying away!

 

Yes, people have had that problem... I generally use a glob of assembly grease to cut down on (not stop) that.

How long ago did you install the Revolvers... I hear rumor about the grind...

 

I dont know when the customer got them but I installed them back in october I think. I use a small magnet to locate them onto the valve stem , then carefully rotate and release the spring. I think of it as surgery, if you dont have steady hands you will have problems.

 

Absolutely...

 

superz you have some good points. I'll explain a bit further. Our 262/264 grind is NOT meant to be a quiet, smooth idling OEM type cam and I hope we have never advertised it as that. What it IS meant to be is a stump pulling, torque monster race/rally cam and it does this without excuses. Installing these means that you will have a lumpy idle. I have run these for a year in my car and I can say that they never EVER stalled even with questionable tunes/timing gear settings.

There are ways of getting a smoother idle with this grind:

1. compromised cam gear settings - I dont like to do this because you give up power, and throttle response. "I'll have my idle with an extra helping of LUMP LUMP LUMP please" I like -2 intake and 0 exhaust myself, but every car is different so spend some time at your local dyno playing with different camgear settings to see what works on your car.

2. ECU tuning - these cams make less vacuum than OEM type cams, this changes the idle tuning. It also means that the engine is running in a different area of "the map" than tuners are used to in adjusting for idle. Make sure your tuner can add more timing in the 500-700 rpm range, in the load area needed (remember the engine is making 9 inHg when it used to make 19 inHg so it is in a completely different load cell).

3. turn the idle speed screw out about 4 turns, it likes a bit more air

We are also working on some new tuning tools to help even further with idle quality. Stay tuned!

 

So what is the final verdict? They are similar to the HKS 280's?

 

And amazing how much BS people want to know about instead of how things work with a car.

 

WRONG!!! i was enjoying the discussion, that is why i was disappointed, i am not afraid to learn or try new things on my car....nice try though, thanks for playing (insert big announcer's voice here) "YOU LOSE THIS ROUND" with seeya