SRD

Mobil 1 has little to no additives...
no viscosity improvers.

It is better than non synthetic oils, interms of less deposit...and because it has little to no polymers content (additives to get the viscosity range), and so are less prone to viscosity and thermal break down.

Granted if you change your oil a lot this will not occur or atleast very minimal amount of deposit buildup. Still wouldn't you feel more safe using Mobil 1? Not all full syn are made the same either.

JeffGST

I guess all you guys can call me cheap, or you can also call me cost effective. I like to spend my money where it counts the most. I have not read the EVO VIII manual, and there is a slight possibility that if you dont use "MOBIL 1" there may be engine damage.

Think about it this way. What if the Mitsubishi said it differently? The motor may break down if conventional oil was used. Would you actually buy an engine that will break down when non-synthetic is used? The 4G63 is built strong! Mitsu did not give us a super sensitive motor that will fall apart on us.

Mobil 1 probably paid Mitsubishi a few extra million dollars so that their name would end up in the service manual. That way all you guys would not think of using any other brand. I think it's great marketing techniques that are working.

I also feel that everyone has a right to use whatever they feel is right for their engine. I just like to put my 2 cents on here, because I like to share my experience with the 4G63 for the last 5 years now.

4G63 = 420HP to the wheels = 108,000 miles = Legendary Motor

jedinite

My $0.02:

I run the Mobile1 10w-50 racing oil.

This is what I use in my race car and its one of the best at protecting a hard-working engine. Since I've got quite a bit on hand, that's what I'm running in my Evolution as well.

stanp

MITSUBISHI SAYS 10W30 MOBIL ONE

twdorris

I never saw the little "new owner" video Mitsu had for the EVO. Did they tell us why in particular they feel this 4G63T motor requires synthetic? What about its design is different enough to require synthetic oil? Do we believe it's just because of the 16G turbo? It's water cooled, right? Or are there internal "issues" like cam shafts or lifters or cylinder clearance or what?

Thomas Dorris

silverEVO8

iTrader: (12)

Here is a picture of the place in the warranty and maintenance manual for my '03 EVO8

SRD

The issue is partially to do with the engine, but mainly cause of the turbo.

No additives = no deposit on the turbine shaft.
Plus less chance of thermal breakdown.
The turbine is running at around 150K rpm, you would not want to lose oil. A build up of deposit will cause the turbine to seize or lack of oil will cause the turbine to seize.

Reasons you need a turbo timer: The compressor is spinning at 150K rpm, it gets mighty hot, never mind the heat transfer from the exhaust. The oil will get hot, and so you should circulate the oil to cool the turbine down, and also so the oil does not sit at the hot turbine shaft and coke.

Another reason, probably does not happen as much vs. a gas turbine, but the turbine blades and compressor blades expand from the heat, if you dont cool down the blades, they can cool unevenly and end up being slightly different lengths...maybe this does not occur cause the blades are so small. And the tolerance is not all that tight like a gas turbine.

non-syn oil will work, but you run the risk of deposit build up, and thermal breakdown...and for the turbine to be less efficient.

JeffGST, sounds like you're using 10W-40? Generally using more that 30 point visc. range, means more additives to achieve that range and a higher chance of thermal breakdown and of course more deposits.

Mobil 1's 10W-40 if I remember correctly has no additives to achieve that spread, like the rest of their products.

And so you run the risk. BUT THE CHOICES IS YOURS, AND YOU HAVE THE RIGHT TO USE SOMETHING OTHER THAN MOBIL 1!

silverEVO8

iTrader: (12)

I agree about the synth oil. The turbo timer is a different matter. It makes sense to use one from a theoretical standpoint. However, in a practical sense, the turbo timer can be very inconvenient. I added one to my WRX and it was always a pain in the ***. It's always a potential danger since the engine continues to run after the key is removed from the ignition. It's very easy to just forget and let the clutch out with the tranny in gear (a good safety measure if you do not use a TT) which will make the car lurch and possible collide. This is doubly troublesome when other folks drive the car. For instance, valet parking guys, car wash guys, service techs or other employees of dealerships, etc.
One more potential problem is that if you park in a steep up-hill place, the emergency brake might not hold the car (since it is not in gear) and you'll see your car roll backwards towards a collision while you desperately try to unlock it, get back in it and stop it!! That actually happened to me, not so much fun...... I'll not be adding a turtbo timer to may car. The few times I drive it hard, I can certainly allow it to idle a bit before shutting the negine down.

SRD

oh man. haha

In my rally car I let it cool down, since I'm standing around for the next staging anyways.

For a daily driver, I can't imagine waiting around for a few minutes!

Tranny in gear is not a problem, I never leave my car in gear...if someone hits your car it can strip your gear.
I don't let other people drive my car, and I think a tech guy would know what the hell a turbo timer is, plus can't you turn it off?

hmm never had a problem with my car rolling before. Don't think I park on a hill all that often.

91TB78

iTrader: (2)

Why wouldn't you use synthetic on your new $30K sportscar??!!!??

I mean, with the car generating more heat than a natrually aspirated car and the principles behind the turbo/engine interaction I would get synthetic just on thermal breakdown protection alone! Not only that, but it protects worlds better on a high-revving, high heat engine.

If I could I would run AMSOIL, but being in Germany makes it tough to get the stuff, so I'll stick with Mobil 1..which is still very good stuff. I even use it in our 4Runner b/c the oil changes go every 5K miles and I like the extra protection it gives.

JeffGST

So let me get this straight. I think all of us agree that the reason why Mitsubishi states that Full Synthetic oil is required is because of the 16G turbocharger.

Is the bearing in the EVO VIII 16G that much more sensitive than the all the other DSM 14B - 20G turbos? I never remember Mitsu requiring synthetic in the 90-99 turbo models.

I agree with all of you that there will be less deposits left with synthetic oils, but as long as you allow the motor to run a short time after high speed driving, the turbo will live forever. Maybe not forever, but outlast the motor. I guess my actual 20G that has been spinning in my motor for 90,000 miles is not good enough proof to you guys that good maintanence habits extend life, not just brand names.

I would just hate to hear from someone who thought that all they has to do was add Mobil 1 and they will never have motor problems. The timely maintanence is so much more important than anything else.

I rest this post now. I feel that has given us the ultimate motor to play with.

TearItUpSports

iTrader: (2)

For another point of reference, my friend has a 90 Talon TSI.
Since day 1 he has used Mobil 1 in that car. The car, a daily driver, is now pushing 250,000 miles on the original motor. That car has done repeated sub 13 1/4 mile runs, and has been first or second in the stock appearing class at the DSM shootout for a few years.

I used Mobil 1 on my Galant VR-4, and my motor has never lost a bit of compression.

Needless to say I will stick with what I have seen first hand.
What it all comes down to is how you take care of your car, but I don't feel the need to be cheap or cost effective, and will pay an extra $20 gladly to get the results I have seen. I can spare myself from going out to dinner one time every 3 months.

SRD

Does the 16G turbo use ball bearings?
I thought it doesn't...

Yes regular oil will work, but I think the extra peace of mind is worth the extra money. Why chance it? Maybe it works at 90K miles but what about 130K?
Dunno if anyone has done any long term studies on it...but all arrows point to a benefit of using Mobil 1.

only says they require Mobil 1 to cover their ***. Same reason why cars list using 5W-30 or 10W-30 in this case...
hell if you know enough about motor oils, you just change the oil based on the temp outside and what you're using the car for!
The requirement is to cover their ***.
Don'y want some idiot putting in 20W-50 when its like 30 degrees out!

Eventually we'll get idiots owning EVOs.

silverEVO8

iTrader: (12)

I totally agree, for whatever reason, specifies the Mobil 1 synthetic oil for the EVO8. Only if just to avoid possible hassles, I'll stick to that. Now, the argument seems to be more about the true benefits or advantages of using Mobil 1 or other equivalent synthetic lubricant versus conventional motor oils.

It seems that there is a preponderant body of evidence that suggests that the synthetic oils are superior in many ways for protecting the engine and blower. Particularly in high temperature, high stress applications. The single biggest disadvantage of synthetic oil is the price. Given that the synthetic oil is superior to conventional oil for use in high performance engines and that requires it, I see no need to use conventional oil in my new EVO8. the whole price difference if you drive 15K miles per year will amount to about $75 in a year. That's not too much considering that you already have enough $$ to purchase and drive a new EVO8.

Peace,

Manuel