what grade mobil 1?
Jun 26, 2003, 10:54 AM
#32
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Oil
Mitsubishi says you should only use mobil1 or you will void the warranty.If any of you are foolish enough to listen to sam walton and buy wal mart oil or any other regular oil for your $30000 car that is boosted to 19 psi then you are rolling the dice and taking a chance.If you are driving an evo then you can afford good oil,these cars are not cheap.New turbos are not cheap either.The turbo is the main reason to use full synthetic oil.Mobil one can tolerate 450 degree temps without breaking down.Regular oil starts to break down at around 250 degrees.Our turbos run in ball bearings.Using regular oil could cause oil coking in the bearings which will eventually destroy them.Do yourselves a favor and follow the factory advice.
Jun 26, 2003, 11:38 AM
#33
Re: Oil
Originally posted by mikshan
Mitsubishi says you should only use mobil1 or you will void the warranty.If any of you are foolish enough to listen to sam walton and buy wal mart oil or any other regular oil for your $30000 car that is boosted to 19 psi then you are rolling the dice and taking a chance.If you are driving an evo then you can afford good oil,these cars are not cheap.New turbos are not cheap either.The turbo is the main reason to use full synthetic oil.Mobil one can tolerate 450 degree temps without breaking down.Regular oil starts to break down at around 250 degrees.Our turbos run in ball bearings.Using regular oil could cause oil coking in the bearings which will eventually destroy them.Do yourselves a favor and follow the factory advice.
Mitsubishi says you should only use mobil1 or you will void the warranty.If any of you are foolish enough to listen to sam walton and buy wal mart oil or any other regular oil for your $30000 car that is boosted to 19 psi then you are rolling the dice and taking a chance.If you are driving an evo then you can afford good oil,these cars are not cheap.New turbos are not cheap either.The turbo is the main reason to use full synthetic oil.Mobil one can tolerate 450 degree temps without breaking down.Regular oil starts to break down at around 250 degrees.Our turbos run in ball bearings.Using regular oil could cause oil coking in the bearings which will eventually destroy them.Do yourselves a favor and follow the factory advice.
did not specify it...
Jun 26, 2003, 07:04 PM
#35
Mobile-1 5W30 and the new 10W30 are made with no viscosity improvers which are the first things to break down in an oil, even synthetics. The greater the viscosity range, the greater the content of viscosity improvers. That's why video recommends Mobile-1 5W30 (and now Mobile-1 10W30).
Service manual calls for fully synthetic ILSAC GF-3 certification. Recommended viscosities for ambient temperatures are 10W30 for -10 degrees F and above, and 20W40 for 32 degrees F and above.
Here is a link to some good info about synthetic oils. Interesting cautionary note concerning the use of 5W40 and 5W50 synthetics.
Why Redline?
video recommends Mobile-1 5W30 (and now Mobile-1 10W30). Service manual calls for fully synthetic ILSAC GF-3 certification. Recommended viscosities for ambient temperatures are 10W30 for -10 degrees F and above, and 20W40 for 32 degrees F and above.
Here is a link to some good info about synthetic oils. Interesting cautionary note concerning the use of 5W40 and 5W50 synthetics.
Why Redline?
Last edited by jfh; Jun 26, 2003 at 07:09 PM.
Jun 26, 2003, 07:13 PM
#36
Originally posted by Claudius
The whole issue is about the oil film on the cylinder not getting too hot and drying / cracking. That's why you need an oil that is effcient at high temperature. And that's also why I would recommend at least 10W50 or 5W50 if you live in a cold area. I use 10W60 if you're interested
The whole issue is about the oil film on the cylinder not getting too hot and drying / cracking. That's why you need an oil that is effcient at high temperature. And that's also why I would recommend at least 10W50 or 5W50 if you live in a cold area. I use 10W60 if you're interested
Here is a quote from Redl Line you might find interesting:
Red Line considers that in most cases an engine should not require the viscosity of a 20W50 and would be simply sacrificing power for doubtful advantage, but the 40Wt Race Oil (15W40) or 10W40 Motor Oil provides significantly improved film thicknesses compared to a 20W50, while providing the advantage of 1-3% more power.
http://www.redlineoil.com/whyredline.htm
Jun 26, 2003, 10:19 PM
#37
Manual also states that if you can't find the "recommended" oil that any oil that carry an API certification will suffice. That includes regular old "dino juice". chew on that one. 
Jun 27, 2003, 06:50 AM
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Re: Re: Oil
Originally posted by silverEVO8
Not entirely correct... The manual says to use fully synthetic oil, not "Mobil 1".... Also, I think you might be reading innacurately some of the posts, other folks (and I) buy our Mobil 1 at Walmart, not "Walmart oil". Personally, I think that synthetic oil is the way to go for any turbocharged engine, I would probably use it even if did not specify it...
Not entirely correct... The manual says to use fully synthetic oil, not "Mobil 1".... Also, I think you might be reading innacurately some of the posts, other folks (and I) buy our Mobil 1 at Walmart, not "Walmart oil". Personally, I think that synthetic oil is the way to go for any turbocharged engine, I would probably use it even if
did not specify it...
Jun 27, 2003, 08:11 AM
#39
Originally posted by n00dle
Manual also states that if you can't find the "recommended" oil that any oil that carry an API certification will suffice. That includes regular old "dino juice". chew on that one.
Manual also states that if you can't find the "recommended" oil that any oil that carry an API certification will suffice. That includes regular old "dino juice". chew on that one.
Nothing to chew on. It's your car and you can use monkey **** to lubricate it if you choose, just don't expect to get warranty coverage if you do.The service manual actually reads "Use only engine oils displaying the ILSAC certification mark ("Starburst": symbol) on the container...If these oils are not available, an API classification of SL or SL/CF can be used."
"Not available" and "can't find" have two totally different meanings. The dealers will always have it available for you.
Common sense would dictate that the API SL and SL/CF substitution is for emergency situations where it is better than no oil at all.
Jun 27, 2003, 08:35 AM
#40
The service manual actually reads "Use only engine oils displaying the ILSAC certification mark ("Starburst": symbol) on the container...If these oils are not available, an API classification of SL or SL/CF can be used."
The fact remains that it covers dino juice aswell.
Common sense would dictate that the API SL and SL/CF substitution is for emergency situations where it is better than no oil at all.
Last edited by n00dle; Jun 27, 2003 at 08:39 AM.
Jun 27, 2003, 12:36 PM
#41
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Read up. He's the oil man!
http://www.nissaninfiniticlub.net/fo...hlight=mb229.1
http://www.nissaninfiniticlub.net/fo...hlight=mb229.1
Jun 27, 2003, 12:57 PM
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Just a little added info on Mobil1. All the Mobil1 oils use VI's or viscosity index improvers in order to cover the spread of cold to hot viscosity ratings on the bottle. The bigger the spread, the more VI's are typically needed to keep the oil's desired characteristics. The additional caveat is the quality of the synthetic basestock used, in other words the "virgin" condition of the oil. If the basestock is higher quality, it needs less VI's.
Mitsu probably chose 10W-30 as the desired grade since it seems they're more concerned with oil getting to the turbo and cam area as quick as possible under startup, esp during cold conditions. 10W-30 is also probably the best grade in terms of needing the least VI to keep the oil in grade.
That said, all the Mobil1's tends to thin out as the VI's are essentially used up / burned up in the oil. Mobil1 oils may state they're xW-30 or xW-40, but if you take a look at the kinematic viscosities at temperature, they're all on the edge of their stated SAE ranges. For example 10W-30 is real close to the 20W range once at operating termperature.
If the 4G63's everywhere else in the world are not spec'd differently in terms of bearing clearances, etc and call for 20W-50 or 10W-40, then it's probable you'll not cause an engine related failure with selecting a higher weight of oil. KEEP in mind though that in climates such as Oz that it never really gets that cold. And "probably" doesn't really cut it for warranty concerns!
If it were my Evo (maybe someday), I'd find the highest quality 10W-30 API certified oil (probably M1) and change it no longer than every 3k if tracking / autocrossing constantly, or 5k if just for street use. I would also begin running a UOA (used oil analysis)program to see what the hell happened to the oil of my choice after use.
Talk is cheap, results are better. UOA is the only thing which will conclusively let you know how well the oil stayed in grade, detergency left, wear metals, etc. All the rest of the information in this thread is just that talk, useful for discussion, but perhaps not for conclusion.
Mitsu probably chose 10W-30 as the desired grade since it seems they're more concerned with oil getting to the turbo and cam area as quick as possible under startup, esp during cold conditions. 10W-30 is also probably the best grade in terms of needing the least VI to keep the oil in grade.
That said, all the Mobil1's tends to thin out as the VI's are essentially used up / burned up in the oil. Mobil1 oils may state they're xW-30 or xW-40, but if you take a look at the kinematic viscosities at temperature, they're all on the edge of their stated SAE ranges. For example 10W-30 is real close to the 20W range once at operating termperature.
If the 4G63's everywhere else in the world are not spec'd differently in terms of bearing clearances, etc and call for 20W-50 or 10W-40, then it's probable you'll not cause an engine related failure with selecting a higher weight of oil. KEEP in mind though that in climates such as Oz that it never really gets that cold. And "probably" doesn't really cut it for warranty concerns!
If it were my Evo (maybe someday), I'd find the highest quality 10W-30 API certified oil (probably M1) and change it no longer than every 3k if tracking / autocrossing constantly, or 5k if just for street use. I would also begin running a UOA (used oil analysis)program to see what the hell happened to the oil of my choice after use.
Talk is cheap, results are better. UOA is the only thing which will conclusively let you know how well the oil stayed in grade, detergency left, wear metals, etc. All the rest of the information in this thread is just that talk, useful for discussion, but perhaps not for conclusion.
Last edited by diesel_fan; Jun 27, 2003 at 01:02 PM.
Jun 27, 2003, 04:43 PM
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The reason for using 10w-30 is to keep the lash adjusters full of oil and not air.
So keep the oil thin 5w-30/10w-30 unless your running a dry sump tank to de-foam the oil.
Info from Mitsubishi tech site.
So keep the oil thin 5w-30/10w-30 unless your running a dry sump tank to de-foam the oil.
Info from Mitsubishi tech site.
Jul 31, 2003, 07:31 AM
#44
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The one the guy is holding in the video that you watch at the dealer is the RED capped Mobile 1 -- not sure the rating because I haven't had to buy any yet.
Jul 31, 2003, 07:56 AM
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Jeff, are you running the original factory turbo on there making that power?
Originally posted by JeffGST
Did you look at my profile on the side? I live in Las Vegas, NV. It averages around 110F in the summertime. It would consider this harsh. Oil does help to keep the engine cooler, and I am very aware of that. But if you guys would just start reading up on API service ratings.
Do some research! The API service rating is the same for Valvoline, Casrol, Pennzoil and Wal-Mart. They all have SL ratings.
I know Mitsu says anything less than sythetic WILL DAMAGE THE MOTOR! But they also say raising the boost a tiny bit will jepordize the motor. Change the oil often! I use a cost effective brand that is up-to-date with current technologies because I change my oil so often.
420 HP @ 6000 RPM
426 Ft.lbs. @ 4800 RPM
At the Front wheels
Factory block,rods,pistons,cams and head
108,000 miles in less than 5 years, so I can consider this a daily driver. Wal-Mart 10W40 has done miracles for the motor.
My tranny has taken 3 dumps before my motor has taken 1.
4G63 is built strong! Believe in it.
Did you look at my profile on the side? I live in Las Vegas, NV. It averages around 110F in the summertime. It would consider this harsh. Oil does help to keep the engine cooler, and I am very aware of that. But if you guys would just start reading up on API service ratings.
Do some research! The API service rating is the same for Valvoline, Casrol, Pennzoil and Wal-Mart. They all have SL ratings.
I know Mitsu says anything less than sythetic WILL DAMAGE THE MOTOR! But they also say raising the boost a tiny bit will jepordize the motor. Change the oil often! I use a cost effective brand that is up-to-date with current technologies because I change my oil so often.
420 HP @ 6000 RPM
426 Ft.lbs. @ 4800 RPM
At the Front wheels
Factory block,rods,pistons,cams and head
108,000 miles in less than 5 years, so I can consider this a daily driver. Wal-Mart 10W40 has done miracles for the motor.
My tranny has taken 3 dumps before my motor has taken 1.
4G63 is built strong! Believe in it.