Few important Questions regarding GT35R
#16
Originally Posted by smokedmustang
Thanks Whoosh, thats the answers Im looking for. I was told by the SAAB guy that the cartridges on the ball-bearing turbos must be "freshened" yearly, at a cost of 750+ dollars. He steered me away from one of those turbos when i wanted one for my 88 SPG 900 Turbo (long time ago). I was just curious if this was still an issue? No one heard of this?
#17
Originally Posted by gsnt
That is the most ludacris thing I've ever heard. The Garret ball bearing CHRA is probably the toughest and most dependable center section I've come across in my entire life. I bet these turbos will outlast anything made. I've seen more stock Evo 8 turbos fail than GT35R's.
#18
I have the fullrace stuff and it is top notch. things to look for in turbo kits are the shape of the collector and the downpipe. most kits out there lack in this area. I've never heard of a fullrace mani ever cracking also.
#19
Originally Posted by nickracer9
I have the fullrace stuff and it is top notch. things to look for in turbo kits are the shape of the collector and the downpipe. most kits out there lack in this area. I've never heard of a fullrace mani ever cracking also.
#20
Originally Posted by smokedmustang
1. Do the tubular manifolds tend to crack more if used on a daily driver?
Originally Posted by smokedmustang
2. Do you have to "freshen" the cartridge yearly? (I heard about this by a SAAB turbo guru.)
Originally Posted by smokedmustang
3. Are there many with a GT35R setup running stock head and internals (besides the ARP rod bolts?)
Originally Posted by smokedmustang
4. I believe if you go this route (GT35R) you need a new down-pipe to fit.
Originally Posted by smokedmustang
5. Is using a 35-50 shot of nitrous more effective when needing quicker spool-up while racing, or is a Stroker-kit more economical. For those of us who use it for daily driving as well?
Originally Posted by smokedmustang
6. I am guessing the most "popular" kit bought is the AMS one. Anyone want to report how they like their RNR/Bushur/Other GT35R kits. I think the only difference is the manifold correct? a GT35 is the same, it just differs on what it "hangs" off of.
link to our stage 3 GT (gt35R) evo turbo kit
http://www.full-race.com/catalog/pro...roducts_id=740
Last edited by Geoff Raicer; Dec 4, 2005 at 02:52 PM.
#21
Originally Posted by Whoosh
the GT35R is a high pressure turbo. It really does not start making good numbers until at least 25 ... c16 and a little spray at the strip you can run 30 psi and more timing and feel the REAL power of a 35R.
Also, if you are looking to make more power at all boost levels, we offer an exclusive turbo called the FR GT3567R. This is a gt35R center section, turbine wheel and housing with a T67 compressor wheel. This combination spools like a GT35R but makes the power of our T3/T67 HO.
One more note, if the turbo/engine are setup perfectly, with a good intake manifold (unfortunately i havent seen many of these yet) and properly degreed cams/cam gears, you can make HUGE power with very little timing. The less timing the better, as cylinder pressure is what destroys motors.
If the car is built perfectly, adding timing does not make more power, it simply increases cylinder pressure (hurts the motor). C16 is a great idea at high boost, regardless of timing, but in all actuality, if the car is perfectly tuned, more timing will not make more power.
Last edited by Geoff Raicer; Dec 4, 2005 at 02:54 PM.
#22
Thankd Geoff, nobody needs to post anymore info! this sums it up. I did go look at your website, and I must say, I havent heard of you till today, you have an awesome looking setup there!!!Thanks for your input.
#23
Originally Posted by smokedmustang
3. Are there many with a GT35R setup running stock head and internals (besides the ARP rod bolts?)
5. Is using a 35-50 shot of nitrous more effective when needing quicker spool-up while racing, or is a Stroker-kit more economical. For those of us who use it for daily driving ...
5. Is using a 35-50 shot of nitrous more effective when needing quicker spool-up while racing, or is a Stroker-kit more economical. For those of us who use it for daily driving ...
3. Yes, me, except I run HKS 272 cams.
5. Obviously, the stroker kit is way better for daily driving than Nitrous. However, it didn't seem economical to me. I'm still recovering financially from the build.
#24
Originally Posted by Smogrunner
Answers:
3. Yes, me, except I run HKS 272 cams.
5. Obviously, the stroker kit is way better for daily driving than Nitrous. However, it didn't seem economical to me. I'm still recovering financially from the build.
3. Yes, me, except I run HKS 272 cams.
5. Obviously, the stroker kit is way better for daily driving than Nitrous. However, it didn't seem economical to me. I'm still recovering financially from the build.
Good to see you are still around, I thought you got rid of your evo. I dont think the stroker would be worth it, but then again, maybe its time to freshen the pistons, as I am close to 55K miles now. dont know which way to go if I track it monthly, and street drive the rest. I am not looking to Drag, just roadcourses. Thanks for the input!
#27
Not to be a d---, but if you can show me an Evo with a GT35R making "great power" at 10 psi, I'll eat the whole car bumper to bumper.
I run a very conservative "street tune". I'm not sure what you consider a "perfect setup" but I will tell you that when I go to the strip and run c16, I can add timing and make more power.
Originally Posted by Full-Race Geoff
I actually disagree slightly with this. The GT35R is definately very efficient at high boost levels, however it also works extremely well at low boost levels, too. We have seen cars make great power from 10 psi to 35 psi.
One more note, if the turbo/engine are setup perfectly, with a good intake manifold (unfortunately i havent seen many of these yet) and properly degreed cams/cam gears, you can make HUGE power with very little timing. The less timing the better, as cylinder pressure is what destroys motors.
If the car is built perfectly, adding timing does not make more power, it simply increases cylinder pressure (hurts the motor). C16 is a great idea at high boost, regardless of timing, but in all actuality, if the car is perfectly tuned, more timing will not make more power.
One more note, if the turbo/engine are setup perfectly, with a good intake manifold (unfortunately i havent seen many of these yet) and properly degreed cams/cam gears, you can make HUGE power with very little timing. The less timing the better, as cylinder pressure is what destroys motors.
If the car is built perfectly, adding timing does not make more power, it simply increases cylinder pressure (hurts the motor). C16 is a great idea at high boost, regardless of timing, but in all actuality, if the car is perfectly tuned, more timing will not make more power.
#30
Originally Posted by gsnt
What turbo IS going to make great power at 10 psi?