Few important Questions regarding GT35R
#92
Originally Posted by RnR Racing
We haven't seen a difference in power going from a .63 to .82 AR on a 35R. Even on our 2.4 motors we don't think it worth the trade off.
Originally Posted by RnR Racing
Geoff, do you think you can make the same power at the same boost level with a 40R versus a 42R? Just wondering because we are in the process of doing (2) 42R kits for customer cars. We have done the 40R's in the past, but they were just off the shelf units. I know when we talked at Sema you said something out about the turbine housing being a problem with the 40's.
Originally Posted by RnR Racing
The 3567R is a 67mm compressor wheel instead of a 61mm wheel that comes in the 35R. Garrett recently released this new turbo.
I definatley agree the 42R is no good on the street tho, unless you have a supra.
Last edited by Geoff Raicer; Dec 10, 2005 at 10:11 AM.
#94
Just to expand on what was said on the GT3037 / GT3076R subject:
Turbos sold under the HKS brand name are actually Garrett turbos. "GT3037" is what HKS calls Garrett's GT3076R, except HKS bolts HKS-designed turbine housings to it.
The HKS turbine housings for this turbo have a T25-style inlet flange and are available in several A/R sizes (four or five different ones I think).
The Garrett offerings have a T3-style inlet flange and come in three A/R sizes (0.63, 0.82, and 1.06). These same castings are used for the GT35R (which is nice since it means you can interchange any Garrett GT30R for a GT35R without changing anything on your manifold or downpipe).
Also the Garrett housings are a made from Ni-Resist, which is an expensive type of metal since it has a lot of nickel (so it is great for extreme temperatures). I don't know what HKS' material is.
Turbos sold under the HKS brand name are actually Garrett turbos. "GT3037" is what HKS calls Garrett's GT3076R, except HKS bolts HKS-designed turbine housings to it.
The HKS turbine housings for this turbo have a T25-style inlet flange and are available in several A/R sizes (four or five different ones I think).
The Garrett offerings have a T3-style inlet flange and come in three A/R sizes (0.63, 0.82, and 1.06). These same castings are used for the GT35R (which is nice since it means you can interchange any Garrett GT30R for a GT35R without changing anything on your manifold or downpipe).
Also the Garrett housings are a made from Ni-Resist, which is an expensive type of metal since it has a lot of nickel (so it is great for extreme temperatures). I don't know what HKS' material is.
#95
smokedmustang-- hook up the water lines to the Garrett ballbearing turbos (GT35R and smaller in particular). A lot of people do not do this and then they wonder why the bearing fails. They NEED the water lines, you MUST hook it up. Unless you want your turbo to fail that is.
It is such a simple thing that many people skimp out on for whatever reason. I think it is just laziness. Don't be lazy.
It is such a simple thing that many people skimp out on for whatever reason. I think it is just laziness. Don't be lazy.
#96
Originally Posted by Ron
smokedmustang-- hook up the water lines to the Garrett ballbearing turbos (GT35R and smaller in particular). A lot of people do not do this and then they wonder why the bearing fails. They NEED the water lines, you MUST hook it up. Unless you want your turbo to fail that is.
It is such a simple thing that many people skimp out on for whatever reason. I think it is just laziness. Don't be lazy.
It is such a simple thing that many people skimp out on for whatever reason. I think it is just laziness. Don't be lazy.
#97
Originally Posted by smokedmustang
I have a few questions, and hope someone can answer them for me/us:
1. Do the tubular manifolds tend to crack more if used on a daily driver?
not if they are backed by a Lifetime Warranty
2. Do you have to "freshen" the cartridge yearly? (I heard about this by a SAAB turbo guru.)
as long as the turbo is fed with a clean fresh supply of oil, NO. we've had some BMW M3 customers that have been running the GT35R for ~3years with zero problems. the Garrett GT cartridge is very very durable
3. Are there many with a GT35R setup running stock head and internals (besides the ARP rod bolts?)
we're running a much larger turbo than the GT35R on the PeakBoost car(GT35R flows ~61lbs/min, our TO4R flows ~75lbs/min. stock engine, stock cams, stock headbolts, 91 octane, 22psi and 400awhp daily.
4. I believe if you go this route (GT35R) you need a new down-pipe to fit.
this is correct. in fact, a high quality GT turbo system will include a full stainless steel 3" downpipe.
5. Is using a 35-50 shot of nitrous more effective when needing quicker spool-up while racing, or is a Stroker-kit more economical. For those of us who use it for daily driving as well?
im not a n20 fan at all, but the honest answer economically, is n20.
the stroker is a better choice for reliablity and the fact that ITS ALWAYS THERE, no bottle to run out. but, the n20 is cheaper..
6. I am guessing the most "popular" kit bought is the AMS one. Anyone want to report how they like their RNR/Bushur/Other GT35R kits. I think the only difference is the manifold correct? a GT35 is the same, it just differs on what it "hangs" off of.
Thanks in advance!
1. Do the tubular manifolds tend to crack more if used on a daily driver?
not if they are backed by a Lifetime Warranty
2. Do you have to "freshen" the cartridge yearly? (I heard about this by a SAAB turbo guru.)
as long as the turbo is fed with a clean fresh supply of oil, NO. we've had some BMW M3 customers that have been running the GT35R for ~3years with zero problems. the Garrett GT cartridge is very very durable
3. Are there many with a GT35R setup running stock head and internals (besides the ARP rod bolts?)
we're running a much larger turbo than the GT35R on the PeakBoost car(GT35R flows ~61lbs/min, our TO4R flows ~75lbs/min. stock engine, stock cams, stock headbolts, 91 octane, 22psi and 400awhp daily.
4. I believe if you go this route (GT35R) you need a new down-pipe to fit.
this is correct. in fact, a high quality GT turbo system will include a full stainless steel 3" downpipe.
5. Is using a 35-50 shot of nitrous more effective when needing quicker spool-up while racing, or is a Stroker-kit more economical. For those of us who use it for daily driving as well?
im not a n20 fan at all, but the honest answer economically, is n20.
the stroker is a better choice for reliablity and the fact that ITS ALWAYS THERE, no bottle to run out. but, the n20 is cheaper..
6. I am guessing the most "popular" kit bought is the AMS one. Anyone want to report how they like their RNR/Bushur/Other GT35R kits. I think the only difference is the manifold correct? a GT35 is the same, it just differs on what it "hangs" off of.
Thanks in advance!
here's a link to some info on our GT turbosystem: PeakBoost turbosystems
we also produce high end turbo systems and SS manifolds for many others, KingPin performance (First GT35R STi turbosystem, 30 +500awhp stock engine cars in '05), and MegaMini USA (Mini Cooper compound charge system for BMW USA) to name a few.
the EVO is something we have been spending alot of time on perfecting over the last 6 months, and we feel its been perfected. double the factory output on pumpgas...
feel free to PM me with any questions
Ken Peak
#98
Originally Posted by Ron
smokedmustang-- hook up the water lines to the Garrett ballbearing turbos (GT35R and smaller in particular). A lot of people do not do this and then they wonder why the bearing fails. They NEED the water lines, you MUST hook it up. Unless you want your turbo to fail that is.
It is such a simple thing that many people skimp out on for whatever reason. I think it is just laziness. Don't be lazy.
It is such a simple thing that many people skimp out on for whatever reason. I think it is just laziness. Don't be lazy.
-- In my opinion the 3567R will be a non street turbo like the 42r. The 35R is a big turbo on a street car, why go any larger? Even if you have a 2.3/2.4 motor, the 35R is good to over 600AWHP. how much more power do you need to make on the street. 35R cars have gone low 10s consitently with even 2.0 motors on full street cars. If you want more power and the lag to come with it, buy a Supra!
Mark
SBR
#100
Originally Posted by SlowboyMR
YES! ,,. i have had soo many customers not do this. I think for same reasons!
-- In my opinion the 3567R will be a non street turbo like the 42r. The 35R is a big turbo on a street car, why go any larger? Even if you have a 2.3/2.4 motor, the 35R is good to over 600AWHP. how much more power do you need to make on the street. 35R cars have gone low 10s consitently with even 2.0 motors on full street cars. If you want more power and the lag to come with it, buy a Supra!
Mark
SBR
-- In my opinion the 3567R will be a non street turbo like the 42r. The 35R is a big turbo on a street car, why go any larger? Even if you have a 2.3/2.4 motor, the 35R is good to over 600AWHP. how much more power do you need to make on the street. 35R cars have gone low 10s consitently with even 2.0 motors on full street cars. If you want more power and the lag to come with it, buy a Supra!
Mark
SBR
Identical spool to a gt35R and make more power at less boost? That is pretty tempting.
If you want faster spool, and still a 620+ whp capable turbo (not quite as much as the 3567R tho) we have a new gt30R variant coming out. The first test showed it can make 32 psi by 4800 rpm
#103
Originally Posted by Full-Race Geoff
Ok there are so many confusing names for the same turbo, its hard to keep track.
The GT3076 is what Garrett has for years (until this one) called the GT3037. This is a ball bearing center section with a gt30R turbine wheel and a 76mm exducer turbo. This is the turbo i am referring to, however we (Full-Race) modify the compressor and turbine housings approrpiately to improve their performance. I definately recommend gt turbos with the proper turbine size. Each turbo and engine setup will have an ideal turbine housing.
The 4G63 will behave VERY similarly to the B series, if it is properly modified, and vice versa, an improperly modified b series engine will make less power than a porperly modified evo motor.
That being said, Headwork, Camshafts, an excellent intake manifold (this is the hardest part as i havent seen many that can be considered properly designed), good turbo system, good intercooler, and a proper tune will all be necessary to make these power levels out of the turbo. The end result, however is fantastic. Great spool, huge broad powerband and instant throttle response with very little cylinder pressure.
The GT3076 is what Garrett has for years (until this one) called the GT3037. This is a ball bearing center section with a gt30R turbine wheel and a 76mm exducer turbo. This is the turbo i am referring to, however we (Full-Race) modify the compressor and turbine housings approrpiately to improve their performance. I definately recommend gt turbos with the proper turbine size. Each turbo and engine setup will have an ideal turbine housing.
The 4G63 will behave VERY similarly to the B series, if it is properly modified, and vice versa, an improperly modified b series engine will make less power than a porperly modified evo motor.
That being said, Headwork, Camshafts, an excellent intake manifold (this is the hardest part as i havent seen many that can be considered properly designed), good turbo system, good intercooler, and a proper tune will all be necessary to make these power levels out of the turbo. The end result, however is fantastic. Great spool, huge broad powerband and instant throttle response with very little cylinder pressure.
Great products, your turbo kits look like the best currently available
Any chance you are going to design/ manufacture an intake manifold for the Evo?
Regards
Simon
#104
Originally Posted by Torquefanatic
Any chance you are going to design/ manufacture an intake manifold for the Evo?
Anyone serious in this, email me at geoff@full-race.com and tell me what you would like to see (any special throttle body flanges, any extra fittings, extra injector bungs, etc) and we can make it all happen! Thanks
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