Where can I get Hose clamps that are strong ?
Jan 5, 2006, 06:14 AM
#1
Where can I get Hose clamps that are strong ?
All I can find are weak ricey hose clamps that cannot withstand the torque required for any decent amount of boost. They usually strip, bend, and pop off the threads when tightened.
Stock, hardware store brand, and automotive clamps just aint robust enough for Evo applications where significant flexing and boost on upwards of 24 psi is achieved.
Does anyone know where to find hose clamps that are wider, thicker, better quality, and can be tightened to at least 12 ft/lbs?
Stock, hardware store brand, and automotive clamps just aint robust enough for Evo applications where significant flexing and boost on upwards of 24 psi is achieved.
Does anyone know where to find hose clamps that are wider, thicker, better quality, and can be tightened to at least 12 ft/lbs?
Jan 5, 2006, 06:17 AM
#2
Evolved Member
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Castle Rock, CO
Posts: 1,546
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
T-bolt clamps is what you need. But be aware that you can break these too. Tighten too much and you will snap the threaded stud, I did it before.
Last edited by IB Jason; Apr 20, 2016 at 03:23 PM.
Jan 5, 2006, 06:19 AM
#3
Evolving Member
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Near Ohare, IL
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
www.mcmaster.com
They have T-bolts and will ship to you. Their clamps come from Clampco and as long as you pick the right ones are 100% stainless steel. Oh yeah and you can definitly still break the bolt off and then you have ruined a 10 dollar clamp. You can also crush the pipe that you are trying to tighten around.
They have T-bolts and will ship to you. Their clamps come from Clampco and as long as you pick the right ones are 100% stainless steel. Oh yeah and you can definitly still break the bolt off and then you have ruined a 10 dollar clamp. You can also crush the pipe that you are trying to tighten around.
Jan 5, 2006, 06:24 AM
#4
Jan 5, 2006, 08:19 AM
#7
Evolved Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 581
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i just replaced all my intercooler hose clamps with the upgraded stainless steel ones from RRE. three bucks each. can torque them to some stupid amount, like 150 ft-lbs.
but if you're on stock pipiing, you can break the pipes VERY easily...
but if you're on stock pipiing, you can break the pipes VERY easily...
Trending Topics
Jan 5, 2006, 09:00 AM
#11
I prefer the constant torque ones if going with Breeze, they are pretty rowdy. Also don't be affraid to source out your parts on your own. You'll end up saving by getting them from napa. Take it from me, it's very convinient to be able to swap out a clamp around the corner if you find that the diameter needed is an odd size 
info on the constant torque clamps straight from Breeze.
"Breeze 'Constant-Torque' Clamping System is an active pressure-compensating clamp.
Virtually all rubber hose compresses "cold flow" after installation of a clamping device, resulting in an almost immediate torque loss that can exceed 80% of installation torque. Similarly, virtually all metal connections expand as a system heats up, and then contracts as the system cools. Conventional worm-gear, T-Bolt, and other clamps are passive, in that expansion and contraction of components cannot be compensated for without retightening or loosening the clamps. This Breeze clamping system is an "active" clamp mechanism, which monitors and then compensates for the temperature changes by actually changing diameter through a unique worm-gear Belleville assembly."
edit: Most never think of the damage done to your rather pricey silicone couplings by the sharp edges of all of these different hose clamps when pressure really starts getting put on them. I personally prefer to use the Swedish made clamps from ABA we and Corky Bell use. I have them pretty much everywhere on my car's system except for the lower i/c pipe. That's where I utilize the Breeze constant torque clamps since there is so much thermal and pressure stress in those coupling areas.
edit: Some info from ABA.
"ABA Hose Clamps
The rolled -up band edges prevent it from cutting into the tube and turbo hose. The stamped threads leave the inside of the clamp smooth and eliminate friction between the hose and the band thus the clamp will seal completely over 360 degrees. Thread engagement gives strength and reliability thus the square threads of the screw are rolled and those on the band stamped. The 6º thread pitch angle results in a vibration resistant hose clamp."
info on the constant torque clamps straight from Breeze.
"Breeze 'Constant-Torque' Clamping System is an active pressure-compensating clamp.
Virtually all rubber hose compresses "cold flow" after installation of a clamping device, resulting in an almost immediate torque loss that can exceed 80% of installation torque. Similarly, virtually all metal connections expand as a system heats up, and then contracts as the system cools. Conventional worm-gear, T-Bolt, and other clamps are passive, in that expansion and contraction of components cannot be compensated for without retightening or loosening the clamps. This Breeze clamping system is an "active" clamp mechanism, which monitors and then compensates for the temperature changes by actually changing diameter through a unique worm-gear Belleville assembly."
edit: Most never think of the damage done to your rather pricey silicone couplings by the sharp edges of all of these different hose clamps when pressure really starts getting put on them. I personally prefer to use the Swedish made clamps from ABA we and Corky Bell use. I have them pretty much everywhere on my car's system except for the lower i/c pipe. That's where I utilize the Breeze constant torque clamps since there is so much thermal and pressure stress in those coupling areas.
edit: Some info from ABA.
"ABA Hose Clamps
The rolled -up band edges prevent it from cutting into the tube and turbo hose. The stamped threads leave the inside of the clamp smooth and eliminate friction between the hose and the band thus the clamp will seal completely over 360 degrees. Thread engagement gives strength and reliability thus the square threads of the screw are rolled and those on the band stamped. The 6º thread pitch angle results in a vibration resistant hose clamp."
Last edited by mitsuorder; Jan 5, 2006 at 09:46 AM.
Jan 5, 2006, 09:35 AM
#12
Evolved Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 581
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by mitsuorder
I prefer the constant torque ones if going with Breeze, they are pretty rowdy. Also don't be affraid to source out your parts on your own. You'll end up saving by getting them from napa. Take it from me, it's very convinient to be able to swap out a clamp around the corner if you find that the diameter needed is an odd size
info on the constant torque clamps straight from Breeze.
"Breeze "Constant-Torque" Clamping System is an active pressure-compensating clamp.
Virtually all rubber hose compresses "cold flow" after installation of a clamping device, resulting in an almost immediate torque loss that can exceed 80% of installation torque. Similarly, virtually all metal connections expand as a system heats up, and then contracts as the system cools. Conventional worm-gear, T-Bolt, and other clamps are passive, in that expansion and contraction of components cannot be compensated for without retightening or loosening the clamps. This Breeze clamping system is an "active" clamp mechanism, which monitors and then compensates for the temperature changes by actually changing diameter through a unique worm-gear Belleville assembly."
edit: Most never think of the damage done to your rather pricey silicone couplings by the sharp edges of all of these different hose clamps when pressure really starts getting put on them. I personally prefer to use the Swedish made clamps from ABA we and Corky Bell use. I have them pretty much everywhere on my car's system except for the lower i/c pipe. That's where I utilize the Breeze constant torque clamps since there is so much thermal and pressure stress in those coupling areas.
info on the constant torque clamps straight from Breeze.
"Breeze "Constant-Torque" Clamping System is an active pressure-compensating clamp.
Virtually all rubber hose compresses "cold flow" after installation of a clamping device, resulting in an almost immediate torque loss that can exceed 80% of installation torque. Similarly, virtually all metal connections expand as a system heats up, and then contracts as the system cools. Conventional worm-gear, T-Bolt, and other clamps are passive, in that expansion and contraction of components cannot be compensated for without retightening or loosening the clamps. This Breeze clamping system is an "active" clamp mechanism, which monitors and then compensates for the temperature changes by actually changing diameter through a unique worm-gear Belleville assembly."
edit: Most never think of the damage done to your rather pricey silicone couplings by the sharp edges of all of these different hose clamps when pressure really starts getting put on them. I personally prefer to use the Swedish made clamps from ABA we and Corky Bell use. I have them pretty much everywhere on my car's system except for the lower i/c pipe. That's where I utilize the Breeze constant torque clamps since there is so much thermal and pressure stress in those coupling areas.
Jan 5, 2006, 02:21 PM
#15
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Somewhere on the Planet
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by voidhawk
how do you install these? Do you have to weld on flanges?