Buschur Racing 20G-9 Dyno charts. Pump gas and race gas.
#1
Buschur Racing 20G-9 Dyno charts. Pump gas and race gas.
Here you go guys.
Below is a dyno sheet of my RS the way it is now. The base pull is pump gas and the test pull is race gas. The pump gas is about as far as I could go, the boost was hitting as high as 25 psi and falling off. I will go back and do more tuning of the boost when I switch the car back over to pump gas again.
The race gas pull was a fairly flat line of 28 psi falling to 27 psi.
The car is going to be sick fast.
Enjoy.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Below is a dyno sheet of my RS the way it is now. The base pull is pump gas and the test pull is race gas. The pump gas is about as far as I could go, the boost was hitting as high as 25 psi and falling off. I will go back and do more tuning of the boost when I switch the car back over to pump gas again.
The race gas pull was a fairly flat line of 28 psi falling to 27 psi.
The car is going to be sick fast.
Enjoy.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
#5
Pump and alky would fall somewhere in the middle I'd guess.
There is listings of what is on my RS in the 20G-9 thread. Rather than me go through it all please take a look there. A lot is done.
Maybe someone more motivated than myself and can cut and paste it.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
There is listings of what is on my RS in the 20G-9 thread. Rather than me go through it all please take a look there. A lot is done.
Maybe someone more motivated than myself and can cut and paste it.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
#6
is this on a stock motor with no other mods? I was just looking at the turbo on your site. can you give us more details about your current setup. and lastly on a BR stage 4 type evo was kind of wheel HP should i expect.
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#8
Wow. Please see post #5.
I have had a few, only a few, Stage 4 cars make 300-310whp on our dyno on pump gas.
This turbo is good for I am estimating 30 more whp than the stock turbo.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
I have had a few, only a few, Stage 4 cars make 300-310whp on our dyno on pump gas.
This turbo is good for I am estimating 30 more whp than the stock turbo.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
#9
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Originally Posted by davidbuschur
The day my RS ran 11.30, 11.31 and an 11.32 it also had 1.60, 1.61 and a 1.62 sixty foot time on my Yokahama Neova's. On that particular day the car ran a best of 120 mph, if I remember right.
At the shootout the car was the quickest/fastest stock appearing EVO there. On that day it was raining on and off and the track was not the greatest because of that. The 60' times would not go below 1.70's. On that day, if I remember right, the best ET was 11.5-11.6 and the best MPH was 117-118.
The car went on the dyno sometime around there and I was happy with what it was making, again, if I remember right it was 328 whp.
I took it back out to Dragway 42 then. Kevin and Trent both drove it that night and that is when it was running 122-124 mph trap speeds. On that night the ET's would not drop below 11.4's, if I remember right.
Please keep in mind that I am honest, whether some people want to believe it or not. It's not like we rented the track and made these times up. They were all run on normal nights with plenty of witnesses. I also am very open about typing my results here on EVOm. If someone was really interested (and bored enough to do it) you could go back and find the dates of my posts, ET's, MPH's and dyno numbers and put this all together perfectly.
Smogrunner,
Also keep in mind. Not everyone is going to run anywhere near what "I" am going to. I have taken great pride in the fact that we have many customers who have gone faster than we did with the same parts. The same will happen with this turbo. It is going to take someone dedicated with a lot of mods though. I am telling you this so when you see guys turning in 300 whp numbers on a dynojet and 12.5's at the track you don't just say, "I told you the turbo sucked and the Buschur was a liar."
Also, I agree that on 94 octane this car should easily be able to run 120 mph trap speeds. It did it with 328 whp on race gas before and is now making 349 whp on pump!
To refresh everyone's memory here is what my RS is all about:
BR Stage 3 shortblock, 020 overbore, no balance shafts
BR Stage 3 head, ported, polished, o-ringed
HKS 280 cams (stock cam gears)
BR ported intake manifold
BR 65 mm throttle body
BR ported coated manifold
BR ported coated 10.5 turbine housing
Ebay 02 housing
BR full 3" exhaust w/offroad pipe and race muffler
BR race FMIC
BR 2.5" upper i/c pipe w/Tial BOV-heaviest spring they make
BR 2.5" lower i/c pipe
BR 2" turbo outlet
BR20G-9
BR 3" MAF pipe, w/BR cold air intake (only works on car without sprayer or HID's)
AEM EMS, w/5 bar map, air temp sensor (and one bad ***** tuning it
Exedy dual disc HD clutch
BR lightweight battery kit
880 cc injectors
BR fuel pump upgrade (stock fuel rail and stock FPR)
Autometer boost gauge (this is the only gauge in the car that didn't come in it) gauge is custom mounted where the mirror switch is in a car with power mirrors. (RS does not have power mirrors.
Stoptech front brakes
DMS 50 mm suspension
BR rear sway bar
BR rear motor mount (that's all we had when I put it in, putting in front next)
HKS Twin power (didn't need it until I went over 370 whp on our dyno)
For weight reducing items these things all helped:
No front or rear bumper beams or brackets.
No emmission canister (that big black piece under the rear of the car)
No heat shields under the car.
No sound deadener on the floor of the car. (RS)
No backing on the carpet.
No a/c.
No power windows. (RS)
No power mirrors. (RS)
No intercooler sprayer bottle.
No carpet or plastic in trunk area (RS)
BR exhaust -36 pounds.
BR air filter kit -6 pounds.
BR battery kit -20 pounds.
SSR wheels.
Stoptech aluminum hat front rotors.
Spare tire, jack, tools. -43 pounds.
*Basically, go to our website and there is a weight reduction section there. I did all of it but I did NOT take the windshield washer sprayer bottle out in the rear.
What I did NOT take out.
I still have both air bags, I think they are important for a street car and driving around with my wife/kids.
I still have all the doors beams in the doors.
I added speakers (RS doesn't have any) and I added a decent stereo with a flip out screen so I can watch movies
I left all the seats belts in the car and all the interior panels and such.
For someone to walk by my car and look at it the average guys is going to have no clue anything has been taken out. The car looks to be 100% perfect, as it is, but I just got rid of unneeded crap.
At the C&D event we were all weighed. The RS came in, without a driver at 2900 pounds. So it is light, I'm proud that it's light so don't give me any grief. I knew what I was going to do with the car when I bought it, that's why I bought an RS this time. First EVO was a normal GSR.
The lighter a car is the faster it is and the less parts it is going to break. To build an EVO that is fun to drive and quiet you don't need to do all this. A 300 whp EVO on our dyno at full weight will run in the 11's with a good driver.
I don't want that kind of car. I want the fastest EVO I can have with the mods that I have on it. I have always been like that. Weight loss is an afternoon's work away and free.
I just added a set of aluminum coil overs to the car and sold the DMS's. The reason was the DMS's are heavy. Excellent product but the weight drives me nuts. I have considered having some special rotors made for the car to drop more weight but keep the excellent braking that I have. I am truly a weight freak. I will not cut up and ruin a car but I will get every OUNCE out of one I can.
These are all things to keep in mind when you start watching this turbo and it's performance from normal everyday EVO owners. Don't knock the turbo, consider the combination it is moving, the tuner and the parts combination.
Bring me an EVO, anyones, let me prepare it just like mine and the results will be had from anyone.
DAMN AM I LONG WINDED!! hahahaha
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
At the shootout the car was the quickest/fastest stock appearing EVO there. On that day it was raining on and off and the track was not the greatest because of that. The 60' times would not go below 1.70's. On that day, if I remember right, the best ET was 11.5-11.6 and the best MPH was 117-118.
The car went on the dyno sometime around there and I was happy with what it was making, again, if I remember right it was 328 whp.
I took it back out to Dragway 42 then. Kevin and Trent both drove it that night and that is when it was running 122-124 mph trap speeds. On that night the ET's would not drop below 11.4's, if I remember right.
Please keep in mind that I am honest, whether some people want to believe it or not. It's not like we rented the track and made these times up. They were all run on normal nights with plenty of witnesses. I also am very open about typing my results here on EVOm. If someone was really interested (and bored enough to do it) you could go back and find the dates of my posts, ET's, MPH's and dyno numbers and put this all together perfectly.
Smogrunner,
Also keep in mind. Not everyone is going to run anywhere near what "I" am going to. I have taken great pride in the fact that we have many customers who have gone faster than we did with the same parts. The same will happen with this turbo. It is going to take someone dedicated with a lot of mods though. I am telling you this so when you see guys turning in 300 whp numbers on a dynojet and 12.5's at the track you don't just say, "I told you the turbo sucked and the Buschur was a liar."
Also, I agree that on 94 octane this car should easily be able to run 120 mph trap speeds. It did it with 328 whp on race gas before and is now making 349 whp on pump!
To refresh everyone's memory here is what my RS is all about:
BR Stage 3 shortblock, 020 overbore, no balance shafts
BR Stage 3 head, ported, polished, o-ringed
HKS 280 cams (stock cam gears)
BR ported intake manifold
BR 65 mm throttle body
BR ported coated manifold
BR ported coated 10.5 turbine housing
Ebay 02 housing
BR full 3" exhaust w/offroad pipe and race muffler
BR race FMIC
BR 2.5" upper i/c pipe w/Tial BOV-heaviest spring they make
BR 2.5" lower i/c pipe
BR 2" turbo outlet
BR20G-9
BR 3" MAF pipe, w/BR cold air intake (only works on car without sprayer or HID's)
AEM EMS, w/5 bar map, air temp sensor (and one bad ***** tuning it
Exedy dual disc HD clutch
BR lightweight battery kit
880 cc injectors
BR fuel pump upgrade (stock fuel rail and stock FPR)
Autometer boost gauge (this is the only gauge in the car that didn't come in it) gauge is custom mounted where the mirror switch is in a car with power mirrors. (RS does not have power mirrors.
Stoptech front brakes
DMS 50 mm suspension
BR rear sway bar
BR rear motor mount (that's all we had when I put it in, putting in front next)
HKS Twin power (didn't need it until I went over 370 whp on our dyno)
For weight reducing items these things all helped:
No front or rear bumper beams or brackets.
No emmission canister (that big black piece under the rear of the car)
No heat shields under the car.
No sound deadener on the floor of the car. (RS)
No backing on the carpet.
No a/c.
No power windows. (RS)
No power mirrors. (RS)
No intercooler sprayer bottle.
No carpet or plastic in trunk area (RS)
BR exhaust -36 pounds.
BR air filter kit -6 pounds.
BR battery kit -20 pounds.
SSR wheels.
Stoptech aluminum hat front rotors.
Spare tire, jack, tools. -43 pounds.
*Basically, go to our website and there is a weight reduction section there. I did all of it but I did NOT take the windshield washer sprayer bottle out in the rear.
What I did NOT take out.
I still have both air bags, I think they are important for a street car and driving around with my wife/kids.
I still have all the doors beams in the doors.
I added speakers (RS doesn't have any) and I added a decent stereo with a flip out screen so I can watch movies
I left all the seats belts in the car and all the interior panels and such.
For someone to walk by my car and look at it the average guys is going to have no clue anything has been taken out. The car looks to be 100% perfect, as it is, but I just got rid of unneeded crap.
At the C&D event we were all weighed. The RS came in, without a driver at 2900 pounds. So it is light, I'm proud that it's light so don't give me any grief. I knew what I was going to do with the car when I bought it, that's why I bought an RS this time. First EVO was a normal GSR.
The lighter a car is the faster it is and the less parts it is going to break. To build an EVO that is fun to drive and quiet you don't need to do all this. A 300 whp EVO on our dyno at full weight will run in the 11's with a good driver.
I don't want that kind of car. I want the fastest EVO I can have with the mods that I have on it. I have always been like that. Weight loss is an afternoon's work away and free.
I just added a set of aluminum coil overs to the car and sold the DMS's. The reason was the DMS's are heavy. Excellent product but the weight drives me nuts. I have considered having some special rotors made for the car to drop more weight but keep the excellent braking that I have. I am truly a weight freak. I will not cut up and ruin a car but I will get every OUNCE out of one I can.
These are all things to keep in mind when you start watching this turbo and it's performance from normal everyday EVO owners. Don't knock the turbo, consider the combination it is moving, the tuner and the parts combination.
Bring me an EVO, anyones, let me prepare it just like mine and the results will be had from anyone.
DAMN AM I LONG WINDED!! hahahaha
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Last edited by VTECH8TR; Jan 13, 2006 at 03:04 PM.
#11
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (8)
Very nice David,
How come power peaks so earlier and falls off so early?
I ask this because other dynocharts usually show peak HP around 6500rpm and slowly falls off till 7600.
I also noticed the peak torque is about 1000rpm later than most evo 8 charts.
Is it just how you set up the car and if so, what was your reasoning for this?
I am truely interested and not trying to challenge / discredit / rip / etc etc in any way.
How come power peaks so earlier and falls off so early?
I ask this because other dynocharts usually show peak HP around 6500rpm and slowly falls off till 7600.
I also noticed the peak torque is about 1000rpm later than most evo 8 charts.
Is it just how you set up the car and if so, what was your reasoning for this?
I am truely interested and not trying to challenge / discredit / rip / etc etc in any way.