i wouldn't change to studs without changing the gasket and if the head is off you MUST replace the gasket, it's not optional.

 

my mistake....I tried looking up the part on mitsubishiparts.net but couldn't find it....I thought I'd heard OEM head gaskets being very $$ but I was taking a guess.

slightly off-topic question, are ARP head studs needed for cams?

 

no , but might as well change the studs while changing cams
the new studs are an added safety measure

 

I don't think the low torque value has completely everything to do with the leak, I have seem stock motors leak with the correct torque value (85lbs) and I have seen fully built long blocks built by professional vendors push oil out the back as well with the same torque values. These motors perform flawlessly so I don't think it is the head stud problem when they are installed correctly. This is my reason for feeling its the stock HG design around the oil passages. Don't get me wrong the stock HG does very well compression wise, no complaints there at all it is just the oil leaks that happen for honestly no proven reason yet with it.

 

Isn't removing one stud at a time a bad practice when removing heads in general?

The reason I'm asking is that I recall from an engine class I took a few years ago that when you remove and reinstall the head, it has to be done a little at a time, in the same torqueing sequence in the service manual, or you risk warping the head.

I'll have to look it up in one of my old books.

Am I way off base here?

 

Actually I agree with you 100%. The stock HG leaking oil in the back is pretty damn common with Evos that have ARP studs or stock bolts. My theory is that the very high oil pressure that the Evos run causes the leak in the oil feed passage not the return which has no pressure. What I have tried and has worked is by spraying the stock HG with copper sealant spray, which adds an extra seal that has been working so far.

 

Right on, Sorry about the oil return statement, you are correct on the oil feed passages. I have been doing the same thing on head gaskets also and the copper permatex (probably spelled it wrong) did seem to help out.