Buschur Racing dyno day results and observations.....
Feb 5, 2006, 05:07 PM
#17
AL,
so say a car with the buschur stage 4, 272cams, hks dli2, and alky had the ix 20g tuned by you. if everything was working right, what numbers do you think it would make? im debating between this and the 3076r on pump and alky for street/drag racing(mostly v8s, cobras, vettes, etc). any recommendations for a turbo at high elevation (i will be one of the people tuned by you in Denver)?
also, you said we should contact you and talk to you about our parts before a tune, i really want to do this to make sure everything goes well when you come to denver, what would be the best way to contact you and get all the info i need? please let me know. thanks!
so say a car with the buschur stage 4, 272cams, hks dli2, and alky had the ix 20g tuned by you. if everything was working right, what numbers do you think it would make? im debating between this and the 3076r on pump and alky for street/drag racing(mostly v8s, cobras, vettes, etc). any recommendations for a turbo at high elevation (i will be one of the people tuned by you in Denver)?
also, you said we should contact you and talk to you about our parts before a tune, i really want to do this to make sure everything goes well when you come to denver, what would be the best way to contact you and get all the info i need? please let me know. thanks!
Last edited by TwStDeVo; Feb 5, 2006 at 05:15 PM.
Feb 5, 2006, 05:12 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by DynoFlash
Shiv - I was not going to comment on this situation at all as I have no time for this drama BS
However, as you have again pressed the issue - after claiming that you did not tune the car in a previous thread . . . . here is what i have determined
The original owner purcahsed your complete Vishnu Stage II WRX kit from you and you installed the above tune in the car in May of 2003 as a base flash with your kit
However, as you have again pressed the issue - after claiming that you did not tune the car in a previous thread . . . . here is what i have determined
The original owner purcahsed your complete Vishnu Stage II WRX kit from you and you installed the above tune in the car in May of 2003 as a base flash with your kit
I'll post the AIM dialogue up on my forum later if you want to read it 
-shiv
Feb 5, 2006, 05:17 PM
#20
I say just drop it, who cares? it has changed hands, and "we" dont know what was done, with the "new" owner from purchace until the dynoday. The "old" owner could have took some parts off it etc....and it really is a dead horse in my opinion. No one has the smoking gun, or fingerprints anywhere, I say enough already!
We shouldn't talk Subie on an Evo site anyway!
We shouldn't talk Subie on an Evo site anyway!
Feb 5, 2006, 05:18 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu
So it was a mail-in baseline flash that came from another car? It's strange because I was talking to the current owner on AIM last week and he didn't/couldn't/wouldn't tell me who the original owner was I'll post the AIM dialogue up on my forum later if you want to read it
-shiv
I'll post the AIM dialogue up on my forum later if you want to read it -shiv
I am not interested in any further discusion of this but post what ever you like if your interested
Feb 5, 2006, 05:25 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by TwStDeVo
AL,
so say a car with the buschur stage 4, 272cams, hks dli2, and alky had the ix 20g tuned by you. if everything was working right, what numbers do you think it would make? im debating between this and the 3076r on pump and alky for street/drag racing(mostly v8s, cobras, vettes, etc). any recommendations for a turbo at high elevation (i will be one of the people tuned by you in Denver)?
also, you said we should contact you and talk to you about our parts before a tune, i really want to do this to make sure everything goes well when you come to denver, what would be the best way to contact you and get all the info i need? please let me know. thanks!
so say a car with the buschur stage 4, 272cams, hks dli2, and alky had the ix 20g tuned by you. if everything was working right, what numbers do you think it would make? im debating between this and the 3076r on pump and alky for street/drag racing(mostly v8s, cobras, vettes, etc). any recommendations for a turbo at high elevation (i will be one of the people tuned by you in Denver)?
also, you said we should contact you and talk to you about our parts before a tune, i really want to do this to make sure everything goes well when you come to denver, what would be the best way to contact you and get all the info i need? please let me know. thanks!
IMHO - the best way to test one of these turbos is on the same car - same day - do a A - B test just changing the turbo. It is hard to draw generalizations about the results on a small sample of cars.
For the price tag the IX 20 G is a huge improvement and certianly a a big bang for the buck factor.
BTW - everyone who is getting a tune from me should review the mods with me prior to the tuning session. Best way is by PM or post a question on my section of the forums.
At Pruven we spend a LOT of time fixing boost leaks and changing spark plugs - all of which should be done BEFORE you get tuned if you want a good result.
Last edited by DynoFlash; Feb 5, 2006 at 05:43 PM.
Feb 5, 2006, 05:27 PM
#23
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from evan's tuning - a great check list for pre tune issues
Tuning Checklist!!!
Here is a list of things you must check and re-check before coming for a tuning appointment.
Electrical Issues
Wiring—The engine harness should have NO exposed wires. Also, DO NOT twist and tape wires together. Take the time to solder them!
Codes—Do not come for an appointment if you a check engine light on.
Battery/Alternator—Make sure they are strong and not failing. Your appointment will be cut short and you will not have a full tune!
Fuel Pumps—DO NOT install the pumps if there is dirt, debris, or rust in the tank. If there is rust in the tank, replace it. You will starve the engine of fuel if you leave junk in the tank.
Mechanical Issues
Engine—What is a healthy engine???
Compression test results should be as follows:
8:1-8.5:1 compression: 150-170 psi per cylinder
8.5:1~9.5:1 compression: 170-210 psi per cylinder
9.5:1~11:1 compression: 210-275 psi per cylinder
11:1+ compression: 250+ per cylinder (highly depends on cams being used)
DO NOT have more than 20psi variance between cylinders. It is not ok to come for an appointment where there are 3 cylinders that have good compression and one that doesn’t. The 3 good don’t make up for the one bad.
Turbo Systems
Make sure you have secured your pipes so that they do not blow off at a tuning appointment. If the pipes aren’t blowing off on some of the 600+whp cars that I’m tuning then they shouldn’t on the 250-300whp cars either.
Make sure all of the bolts are tightened, in particular, the exhaust manifold bolts. This is considered an exhaust leak and you will lose power as a result.
Make sure the o2 sensor hole is big enough to fit the common wideband sensors.
Make sure the blow off valve is tight. Do you want it to sound “cool” or work properly?
Be sure to use the proper oil feed and return lines and that they are installed properly.
Turbo shaft play. Don’t expect that you can come to an appointment and make 500hp with a turbo that is shot. Get it rebuilt or buy a new one!
LS/VTEC—Under no circumstance should you use a –6 oil feed line from the block to the cylinder head. Maximum of –4, but a –3 is preferred.
LS/VTEC—DO NOT USE brass tees inline to feed an oil pressure guage, turbo oil feed line, and LS/VTEC line. There’s too much volume and not enough pressure. Say goodbye to VTEC!
OBD Conversions
What you'll need to go from OBD-2 to OBD-1 are the following:
OBD-2 to OBD-1 conversion harness
OBD-1 ECU such as p28/p30/p72/p75/p06/etc
OBD-1 injector clips if going with aftermarket fuel injectors
Miscellaneous
I have a Dynapack Dyno. I take the wheels off of your car to tune the car. Do not come to the appointment without the wheel lug key if you have locking wheel lugs.
Bring extra spark plugs if you don’t want to pay for them. New spark plugs are NOT included in the tuning rate.
Make sure all fluid levels are up to par. No oil, no engine. No coolant, overheating issue.
Bleed the coolant system before you come for the appointment. If your car is overheating, DO NOT come for the appointment. I cannot tune a car that is overheating.
Make sure you have brakes on the car that are suited for your power level. I street tune every car after tuning on the dyno and I should feel safe riding in your car. It goes fast it needs to stop fast!
If you are experiencing any or all of these problems and want to know how to fix them, please refer to the following thread: http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?t=1635
If after reading this you still don’t have the answer you are looking for, make a post about your issue on the forum and get some advice. If you still don’t get the answer you are looking for, send me an email at tech@evans-tuning.com
Our job is to tune your car, not fix everything that is wrong with it. If you come to an appointment with a car that is not working properly you may be asked to leave depending upon the severity of the issue. If the problem is minor enough to be fixed at the shop during the day, we can fix it, but NOT FOR FREE. You wouldn’t work for free and neither should we!
Here is a list of things you must check and re-check before coming for a tuning appointment.
Electrical Issues
Wiring—The engine harness should have NO exposed wires. Also, DO NOT twist and tape wires together. Take the time to solder them!
Codes—Do not come for an appointment if you a check engine light on.
Battery/Alternator—Make sure they are strong and not failing. Your appointment will be cut short and you will not have a full tune!
Fuel Pumps—DO NOT install the pumps if there is dirt, debris, or rust in the tank. If there is rust in the tank, replace it. You will starve the engine of fuel if you leave junk in the tank.
Mechanical Issues
Engine—What is a healthy engine???
Compression test results should be as follows:
8:1-8.5:1 compression: 150-170 psi per cylinder
8.5:1~9.5:1 compression: 170-210 psi per cylinder
9.5:1~11:1 compression: 210-275 psi per cylinder
11:1+ compression: 250+ per cylinder (highly depends on cams being used)
DO NOT have more than 20psi variance between cylinders. It is not ok to come for an appointment where there are 3 cylinders that have good compression and one that doesn’t. The 3 good don’t make up for the one bad.
Turbo Systems
Make sure you have secured your pipes so that they do not blow off at a tuning appointment. If the pipes aren’t blowing off on some of the 600+whp cars that I’m tuning then they shouldn’t on the 250-300whp cars either.
Make sure all of the bolts are tightened, in particular, the exhaust manifold bolts. This is considered an exhaust leak and you will lose power as a result.
Make sure the o2 sensor hole is big enough to fit the common wideband sensors.
Make sure the blow off valve is tight. Do you want it to sound “cool” or work properly?
Be sure to use the proper oil feed and return lines and that they are installed properly.
Turbo shaft play. Don’t expect that you can come to an appointment and make 500hp with a turbo that is shot. Get it rebuilt or buy a new one!
LS/VTEC—Under no circumstance should you use a –6 oil feed line from the block to the cylinder head. Maximum of –4, but a –3 is preferred.
LS/VTEC—DO NOT USE brass tees inline to feed an oil pressure guage, turbo oil feed line, and LS/VTEC line. There’s too much volume and not enough pressure. Say goodbye to VTEC!
OBD Conversions
What you'll need to go from OBD-2 to OBD-1 are the following:
OBD-2 to OBD-1 conversion harness
OBD-1 ECU such as p28/p30/p72/p75/p06/etc
OBD-1 injector clips if going with aftermarket fuel injectors
Miscellaneous
I have a Dynapack Dyno. I take the wheels off of your car to tune the car. Do not come to the appointment without the wheel lug key if you have locking wheel lugs.
Bring extra spark plugs if you don’t want to pay for them. New spark plugs are NOT included in the tuning rate.
Make sure all fluid levels are up to par. No oil, no engine. No coolant, overheating issue.
Bleed the coolant system before you come for the appointment. If your car is overheating, DO NOT come for the appointment. I cannot tune a car that is overheating.
Make sure you have brakes on the car that are suited for your power level. I street tune every car after tuning on the dyno and I should feel safe riding in your car. It goes fast it needs to stop fast!
If you are experiencing any or all of these problems and want to know how to fix them, please refer to the following thread: http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?t=1635
If after reading this you still don’t have the answer you are looking for, make a post about your issue on the forum and get some advice. If you still don’t get the answer you are looking for, send me an email at tech@evans-tuning.com
Our job is to tune your car, not fix everything that is wrong with it. If you come to an appointment with a car that is not working properly you may be asked to leave depending upon the severity of the issue. If the problem is minor enough to be fixed at the shop during the day, we can fix it, but NOT FOR FREE. You wouldn’t work for free and neither should we!
Feb 5, 2006, 05:39 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by DynoFlash
No shiv - it was a entire Vishnu package and tune that was installed on one car and sold by the original owner to the curent owner with no modifications of any kind and no tuning changes
I am not interested in any further discusion of this but post what ever you like if your interested
I am not interested in any further discusion of this but post what ever you like if your interested
shiv
Feb 5, 2006, 05:46 PM
#26
I don't want to interfere and try to keep tally on the "zinger" board, but Al, I think the ball has been in your court for a while now, Just give Shiv the courtesy of letting him know who this person is, and then we can bury this! That is what I call in my profession: "Professional Courtesy". just pm him, and swear him to secrecy!
99.8% of us dont really care about this issue, and it just muds up the thread.
just pm him, and swear him to secrecy! 99.8% of us dont really care about this issue, and it just muds up the thread.
Feb 5, 2006, 05:47 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu
I'm not arguing with you Al. I just would like to find out who was the original owner. You mentioned last week that you would get to the bottom of it. I just find it a little odd that it was first referred to it as a car that I personally tuned. then it became a mail-in reflash. And now it is supposed to be a mail-in reflash that was configured for another customer/car from 3 years ago. Whatever it is or isn't, it would just be nice to have a little closure on the subject. If not, that's cool too. Just as long as the customer is happy
shiv
shiv
As I have said - it was your original tune - untouched along with your complete Stage II WRX kit - 100% as supplied by you with everything there and in 100% working order.
I dont think the fact that the car changed hands has any bearing on the tuning.
The tune that was in it references the tuner ID # I have posted above - either that is you or it is not - I am done with this subject as the whole ordeal is of little imporance to me.
Feb 5, 2006, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu
I'm not arguing with you Al. I just would like to find out who was the original owner. You mentioned last week that you would get to the bottom of it. I just find it a little odd that it was first referred to it as a car that I personally tuned. then it became a mail-in reflash. And now it is supposed to be a mail-in reflash that was configured for another customer/car from 3 years ago. Whatever it is or isn't, it would just be nice to have a little closure on the subject. If not, that's cool too. Just as long as the customer is happy
shiv
shiv
Im not sure how your getting confused soo easily but, Al said the car has your stage2, baseflash for the stage 2, then that owner sold it to the kid who owns it now.
So same car, same tune.
Last edited by Jim_Patterson; Feb 5, 2006 at 05:56 PM.
Feb 5, 2006, 05:49 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by smokedmustang
I don't want to interfere and try to keep tally on the "zinger" board, but Al, I think the ball has been in your court for a while now, Just give Shiv the courtesy of letting him know who this person is, and then we can bury this! That is what I call in my profession: "Professional Courtesy". just pm him, and swear him to secrecy!
99.8% of us dont really care about this issue, and it just muds up the thread.
just pm him, and swear him to secrecy! 99.8% of us dont really care about this issue, and it just muds up the thread.
The customer is a member here and can post up any details he wants or not - that is his preference.
