BG synchromesh vs. pennzoil sychromesh
#32
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Pennzoil® Synchromesh Fluid is a synchromesh transmission fluid designed for certain manual transaxles and manual transmissions used by General Motors or Chrysler. Pennzoil® Synchromesh Fluid is formulated with high quality paraffinic base stocks, a fluidity modifier, multifunctional performance additives, corrosion inhibitors, a foam suppressor and a shear stable viscosity index improver additive. It provides excellent oxidation stability, low temperature performance, excellent synchronizer performance and compatibility with yellow metals, such as bronze, brass and copper components found in manual transaxles and transmissions. This product will satisfactorily lubricate General Motors or Chrysler manual transaxles and transmissions from -40°C to +150°C
BG Syncro Shift® II is a gear lubricant specially formulated for front wheel drive manual transmissions. It does not sacrifice any performance as does engine oil, ATF or conventional gear oil. It provides required thermal stability, low-temperature fluidity, hot rattle suppression, noise dampening at operating temperature, outstanding extreme pressure characteristics, shear stability, smoother shifting characteristics, wear reduction (synchronizer, gears, bearings, shift fork), seal compatibility, and reduced maintenance costs. This product is a part of the BG TDC® program.
I was told by Jon @ TRE that the BG oil is synthetic and the Pennzoil isn't. The both work well, but change it more often if you use the Pennzoil oil. However, I couldn't find any evidence on BG's site starting that Syncro Shift is in fact synthetic, so who knows?
- Steve
BG Syncro Shift® II is a gear lubricant specially formulated for front wheel drive manual transmissions. It does not sacrifice any performance as does engine oil, ATF or conventional gear oil. It provides required thermal stability, low-temperature fluidity, hot rattle suppression, noise dampening at operating temperature, outstanding extreme pressure characteristics, shear stability, smoother shifting characteristics, wear reduction (synchronizer, gears, bearings, shift fork), seal compatibility, and reduced maintenance costs. This product is a part of the BG TDC® program.
I was told by Jon @ TRE that the BG oil is synthetic and the Pennzoil isn't. The both work well, but change it more often if you use the Pennzoil oil. However, I couldn't find any evidence on BG's site starting that Syncro Shift is in fact synthetic, so who knows?
- Steve
#33
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Well, in my DSM I used the GM Synchromesh (Pennzoil is the same as stated) just in the tranny and it was ok. I tried the BG Synro and the BG was a bit thinner than the GM. I heard more tranny noise with that one. Because these are dino oils, if you use your car as just a daily driver, go easy on it and change them at the proper intervals they are both fine.
However, if you are going to race, track, or beat on your car what-so-ever, I think these oils suck. I don't honestly believe they are worth a damn. Two tranny's going up in smoke (and poor craftsmanship) was a big contributer to these failing. Oil tests can tell you more than you want to know at times.
For the Evo I use royal Purple all the way around and use Redline MT90/MTL mix in the DSM tranny and starwberry quick(Redline Heavy Shockproof) in the rear diff and TC. I believe a performance car needs performance oils (synthetic). Hell, if Mits wanted all dino then they wouldn't put M1 from the start in our Evo's right?
If you are a little to a lot ruff on the performance car use synthetics. If you are easy going on your car, dino's won't hurt as long as you change at the proper intervals all the time.
If you don't believe me - get an oil analysis done after you've left in those dinos and see the break down with proof.
However, if you are going to race, track, or beat on your car what-so-ever, I think these oils suck. I don't honestly believe they are worth a damn. Two tranny's going up in smoke (and poor craftsmanship) was a big contributer to these failing. Oil tests can tell you more than you want to know at times.
For the Evo I use royal Purple all the way around and use Redline MT90/MTL mix in the DSM tranny and starwberry quick(Redline Heavy Shockproof) in the rear diff and TC. I believe a performance car needs performance oils (synthetic). Hell, if Mits wanted all dino then they wouldn't put M1 from the start in our Evo's right?
If you are a little to a lot ruff on the performance car use synthetics. If you are easy going on your car, dino's won't hurt as long as you change at the proper intervals all the time.
If you don't believe me - get an oil analysis done after you've left in those dinos and see the break down with proof.
#35
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Transmission oils
Hey guys,
I thought this would be a good thread to chime in on, so here's my take.
Pennzoil, good and cheap and it works well if the oil is changed every 5k. It does breakdown faster than the BG but if you change it often there shouldn't be a problem.
BG, good stuff and I really like the BG #2. It is a full synthetic and offers a higher film strength than the Pennzoil or the BG #1 and this makes a big difference for those who are making mega torque or road racing the car.
However, the transmission really should use an oil with the appropriate GL rating.
Also, for those who road race their EVO I would recommend changing all drivetrain oils and engine oils after being at the track all day. Running back to back road race type track sessions really puts the hurt on any oil. The heat really breaks down the oil and it's not worth it to not change the oils if you give a damn about the longevity of your stuff.
Race cars require race service intervals; make sure to service your race car
Jon@TRE
I thought this would be a good thread to chime in on, so here's my take.
Pennzoil, good and cheap and it works well if the oil is changed every 5k. It does breakdown faster than the BG but if you change it often there shouldn't be a problem.
BG, good stuff and I really like the BG #2. It is a full synthetic and offers a higher film strength than the Pennzoil or the BG #1 and this makes a big difference for those who are making mega torque or road racing the car.
However, the transmission really should use an oil with the appropriate GL rating.
Also, for those who road race their EVO I would recommend changing all drivetrain oils and engine oils after being at the track all day. Running back to back road race type track sessions really puts the hurt on any oil. The heat really breaks down the oil and it's not worth it to not change the oils if you give a damn about the longevity of your stuff.
Race cars require race service intervals; make sure to service your race car
Jon@TRE
Last edited by GEARS; Mar 23, 2007 at 05:20 PM.
#36
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Originally Posted by GEARS
Hey guys,
I thought this would be a good thread to chime in on, so here's my take.
Pennzoil, good and cheap and it works well if the oil is changed every 5k. It does breakdown faster than the BG but if you change it often there shouldn't be a problem.
BG, good stuff and I really like the BG #2. It is a full synthetic and offers a higher film strength than the Pennzoil or the BG #1 and this makes a big difference for those who are making mega torque or road racing the car.
Also, for those who road race their EVO I would recommend changing all drivetrain oils and engine oils after being at the track all day. Running back to back road race type track sessions really puts the hurt on any oil. The heat really breaks down the oil and it's not worth it to not change the oils if you give a damn about the longevity of your stuff.
Race cars require race service intervals; make sure to service your race car
Jon@TRE
I thought this would be a good thread to chime in on, so here's my take.
Pennzoil, good and cheap and it works well if the oil is changed every 5k. It does breakdown faster than the BG but if you change it often there shouldn't be a problem.
BG, good stuff and I really like the BG #2. It is a full synthetic and offers a higher film strength than the Pennzoil or the BG #1 and this makes a big difference for those who are making mega torque or road racing the car.
Also, for those who road race their EVO I would recommend changing all drivetrain oils and engine oils after being at the track all day. Running back to back road race type track sessions really puts the hurt on any oil. The heat really breaks down the oil and it's not worth it to not change the oils if you give a damn about the longevity of your stuff.
Race cars require race service intervals; make sure to service your race car
Jon@TRE
I use BG I for track days and is sure does smooth out the fast shifting and as Jon states change it often if you track your car. My car always had a 3-4 fast shift grind with the Diaqueen, first time I put BG in it was gone, all the other shifts can be done faster now too
#43
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Originally Posted by davyper
I heard that synchromesh really sucks in winter time. is that true?