Slave and master cylinders
#1
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Slave and master cylinders
Well, i finally found out what was wrong with my clutch, and it wasnt what i was hoping. I was hoping just for a loose line or something, but come to find out, it was the master and slave cylinders gone. Now i am putting the car in the air today and going to replace it but, What i was wondering, is this just one of those things that just happens that you cant really prevent? Do you think any of my mods had anything to do with it? Or is there something that i can do to try to prevent it? I plan on going on a trip that's about 700-800 miles one way, and dont want anything like this to happen again!!?! So any advice woudl be nice. Here are a list of my mod's...
HKS 264 cams
Fidanza cam gears set at 0/0
TB exhaust
EBC (Set at 19)
AEM EMS
UICP
LICP
AMS FMIC
ARP headstuds
HKS intake
ACT heavy duty clutch kit
680 Injectors
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Custom manifold
Turbo outlet
Other small things...
HKS 264 cams
Fidanza cam gears set at 0/0
TB exhaust
EBC (Set at 19)
AEM EMS
UICP
LICP
AMS FMIC
ARP headstuds
HKS intake
ACT heavy duty clutch kit
680 Injectors
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Custom manifold
Turbo outlet
Other small things...
#3
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yeah i highly doubt it is the master AND slave cylinder. also you don't need to raise the car to replace either of those. you can gat at both from above.
you never really described the problem though.... so tell us what is wrong and we can fix it for you online
is the pedal going to the floor and not coming back up? you might have air in your line (or a leak). bleed it. and make sure there is brake fuild filled to the very very top of the resevior so it can overflow into the clutch resevoir. once again, i highly doubt the master or slave cylinder is bad... but you never know.
you never really described the problem though.... so tell us what is wrong and we can fix it for you online
is the pedal going to the floor and not coming back up? you might have air in your line (or a leak). bleed it. and make sure there is brake fuild filled to the very very top of the resevior so it can overflow into the clutch resevoir. once again, i highly doubt the master or slave cylinder is bad... but you never know.
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It has 33XXX miles on it, and i put the car in the air because i have to fix my downpipe too. So i just did that while i'm at it. Well i bled it and there was no air in the lines, me and my friend both figured that out. And it wasnt leaking any fluids because the fluid was still there. Maybe it's just the slave cylinder? The petal did go to the floor and wouldnt come back up. I had to have it towed back to my house. It sucked. But i'm pretty sure it's one or the other. I already tried bleeding the lines, putting all new fluids in, and i think it's just that the cylinder(s) may have went bad, because it's not properly holding. So idk. It's got me baffled.
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No, i havent installed any clutch lines or anything. Everything was working fine, until i installed my cams, cam gears, and gauges. Then about 45-50 miles later, Next thing i know i'm in the side of the road, with a tow truck guy.. That by the way ripped off my front bumper and snapped the top of it off. Pretty sweet. Do they have to pay for that? Because basically told me to shove it.
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if that happens again this is what you should do and it is perfectly fine for your whole drivetrain:
1. hold clutch pedal to floor
2. gas it
3. turn over the engine. be careful you will be going forward obviously.
4. once you get going, learn how to clutchless drive. it is basically rev matching. for example 3rd gear for me at ~35 mph is ~2700 rpm which makes 4th gear ~2000 rpm. pull the shifter out of 3rd @2700 and wait untill your RPMs drop to ~2000 and pull the shifter into 4th. there should be no grinding and the shifter will almost pull itself into the gear you are trying to shift into, assuming you rev match properly.
5. dont pull into any parking spots. you will not have reverse and will have to push out your car backwards if you do.
this happened to me in my eclipse on the way to Colorado from Chicago. I made it in a major blizzard, clutchless driving the entire 1000 miles. but my problem was when i shifted i would clip the line between the master and slave cylinder. maybe this will save you a towing fee and headache. and bumper. they flat bedded it right?
1. hold clutch pedal to floor
2. gas it
3. turn over the engine. be careful you will be going forward obviously.
4. once you get going, learn how to clutchless drive. it is basically rev matching. for example 3rd gear for me at ~35 mph is ~2700 rpm which makes 4th gear ~2000 rpm. pull the shifter out of 3rd @2700 and wait untill your RPMs drop to ~2000 and pull the shifter into 4th. there should be no grinding and the shifter will almost pull itself into the gear you are trying to shift into, assuming you rev match properly.
5. dont pull into any parking spots. you will not have reverse and will have to push out your car backwards if you do.
this happened to me in my eclipse on the way to Colorado from Chicago. I made it in a major blizzard, clutchless driving the entire 1000 miles. but my problem was when i shifted i would clip the line between the master and slave cylinder. maybe this will save you a towing fee and headache. and bumper. they flat bedded it right?
Last edited by NapervilleEVO; Feb 23, 2006 at 02:17 PM.
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#8
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because the clutch system is so simple there are only a few things to check to make sure it is ok. first of all, when you tried bleeding the system, did you see fluid coming out of the bleeder nipple? or was nothing come out? if you prime the pedal you should see fluid coming out of that thing like a squirt gun when you crack the bleeder valve.
how much resistance is in the pedal when it goes to the floor? generally if you master cylinder is going out, the seal will wear over time, not suddenly and catastrophicly. if it goes to the floor really easily check the actual pedal to make sure everything is connected right. i have not ever inspected what the evo pedal looks like but i have had the linkage on a throttle cable come off in a VW. throught i broke the cable but it was just the linkage holding it to the pedal.
check the slave cylinder mount to make sure that the bolts holding it down haven't back out allowing it to shift its position (happened in my porsche before... pedal went to the floor, thought it was the slave cylinder, turns out it was just a bolt holding it in place backing out. also check to make sure that the piston of the slave cylinder is in the little cup of the wishbone sticking out of the tranny... if its not in there obviously you will be able to push the pedal to the floor, but there will be nothing to push it back up. might also want to take off the mounts to the slave cylinder and grab hold of the wishbone itself... if you can easily wiggle that guy, you know the problem (it takes a great deal of force to push it to the passenger side of the car when it is working properly...). its possible that the coil springs holding that guy or the pin going through it came off... in which case you would have no way to force the slave cylinder back in. i actually think it may be the case assuming you have bled the clutch and there is no air (which automatically implys that you have a pretty good idea of what your doing). oh, and pray that the wishbone springs, or the pin everything rotates on didn't come loose because that means you get to take off the tranny again to get those guys back on . there is a little hole with a rubber cover that is used to remove the pin with. you might get lucky and be able to shove it back into place through that hole if indeed it did back out.
there are only a few things you need to check to see where the problem is before you go buying new hydraulics.
oh and a bad slave cylinder will be leaking all over the place, as it is a single acting cylinder if it is bad.
how much resistance is in the pedal when it goes to the floor? generally if you master cylinder is going out, the seal will wear over time, not suddenly and catastrophicly. if it goes to the floor really easily check the actual pedal to make sure everything is connected right. i have not ever inspected what the evo pedal looks like but i have had the linkage on a throttle cable come off in a VW. throught i broke the cable but it was just the linkage holding it to the pedal.
check the slave cylinder mount to make sure that the bolts holding it down haven't back out allowing it to shift its position (happened in my porsche before... pedal went to the floor, thought it was the slave cylinder, turns out it was just a bolt holding it in place backing out. also check to make sure that the piston of the slave cylinder is in the little cup of the wishbone sticking out of the tranny... if its not in there obviously you will be able to push the pedal to the floor, but there will be nothing to push it back up. might also want to take off the mounts to the slave cylinder and grab hold of the wishbone itself... if you can easily wiggle that guy, you know the problem (it takes a great deal of force to push it to the passenger side of the car when it is working properly...). its possible that the coil springs holding that guy or the pin going through it came off... in which case you would have no way to force the slave cylinder back in. i actually think it may be the case assuming you have bled the clutch and there is no air (which automatically implys that you have a pretty good idea of what your doing). oh, and pray that the wishbone springs, or the pin everything rotates on didn't come loose because that means you get to take off the tranny again to get those guys back on . there is a little hole with a rubber cover that is used to remove the pin with. you might get lucky and be able to shove it back into place through that hole if indeed it did back out.
there are only a few things you need to check to see where the problem is before you go buying new hydraulics.
oh and a bad slave cylinder will be leaking all over the place, as it is a single acting cylinder if it is bad.
Last edited by KevinD; Feb 23, 2006 at 02:32 PM.
#9
My slave cylinder went out after 15k miles in my eclipse and i had nothing modifed, i think its just inevitable. Sometimes things go out, But im sure there could be a chance that something might have made it go out.
#10
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Originally Posted by NapervilleEVO
if that happens again this is what you should do and it is perfectly fine for your whole drivetrain:
1. hold clutch pedal to floor
2. gas it
3. turn over the engine. be careful you will be going forward obviously.
4. once you get going, learn how to clutchless drive. it is basically rev matching. for example 3rd gear for me at ~35 mph is ~2700 rpm which makes 4th gear ~2000 rpm. pull the shifter out of 3rd @2700 and wait untill your RPMs drop to ~2000 and pull the shifter into 4th. there should be no grinding and the shifter will almost pull itself into the gear you are trying to shift into, assuming you rev match properly.
5. dont pull into any parking spots. you will not have reverse and will have to push out your car backwards if you do.
this happened to me in my eclipse on the way to Colorado from Chicago. I made it in a major blizzard, clutchless driving the entire 1000 miles. but my problem was when i shifted i would clip the line between the master and slave cylinder. maybe this will save you a towing fee and headache. and bumper. they flat bedded it right?
1. hold clutch pedal to floor
2. gas it
3. turn over the engine. be careful you will be going forward obviously.
4. once you get going, learn how to clutchless drive. it is basically rev matching. for example 3rd gear for me at ~35 mph is ~2700 rpm which makes 4th gear ~2000 rpm. pull the shifter out of 3rd @2700 and wait untill your RPMs drop to ~2000 and pull the shifter into 4th. there should be no grinding and the shifter will almost pull itself into the gear you are trying to shift into, assuming you rev match properly.
5. dont pull into any parking spots. you will not have reverse and will have to push out your car backwards if you do.
this happened to me in my eclipse on the way to Colorado from Chicago. I made it in a major blizzard, clutchless driving the entire 1000 miles. but my problem was when i shifted i would clip the line between the master and slave cylinder. maybe this will save you a towing fee and headache. and bumper. they flat bedded it right?
When shifting to show my friend, who has never been in an Evo just how fast they are, the pedal went to the floor... I pulled over immediately and was able to pull the pedal back up with my hands, but then it wouldn't go back down... there seems to be too much pressure... I'm going to bleed the clutch today (Hopefully) but I'm wondering if it could by my master or slave cyl. Anyone with some advice please pass it along!!
Last edited by jk_addict; Mar 27, 2006 at 03:20 PM.
#11
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I bled the clutch yesterday, and the pedal went to the floor nicely when the bleeder cap was off, then once replaced, the pedal would not go down as usual. There is some movement of the linkage cable when pressing hard on the pedal, but not much movement is possible. Please give me some pointers on what might be wrong... thanks.
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sounds like you drained all the fluid out of the line when you were bleeding it. BTW, i hope your not taking the bleeder nipple out to bleed it. all you need to do is give it a quarter turn from full tight. just enough so fluid will leak out of it (with the air bubbles hopefully). check the resevoir to see if you have fluid in there. if you don't have fluid in the line, your pedal will go to the floor and not come back up without pulling it up manually.
fill up the fluid, and bleed it again. make sure you know how to bleed the system though, otherwise your just going to make a mess.
fill up the fluid, and bleed it again. make sure you know how to bleed the system though, otherwise your just going to make a mess.
#13
hey, I just went through this same dilemma a couple nights ago. I was upgrading not fixing, but I had the same issue with the slave cylinder. What you should do is buy a speed bleeder in the help section of your local parts store go to this site on how to properly bleed your system and if this doesnt work then you do need a part. http://evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tPa...d7c099000cfd0e
p.s.- when I followed all the instructions here I still had an issue of it not bleeding out. and found out that there was a little air trapped in the slave. I had my brother working down there and I believe he removed the bleeder in the slave and it bled fine after that.....best of luck.
p.s.- when I followed all the instructions here I still had an issue of it not bleeding out. and found out that there was a little air trapped in the slave. I had my brother working down there and I believe he removed the bleeder in the slave and it bled fine after that.....best of luck.
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