Well, I F'd my car!!!
#17
The valve cover didn't blow off, the timing belt cover did, and it cracked where it bolted to the valve cover. I didn't look at it today, I will let a shop do the rest.
#21
Having done a timing belt job on a 4g63 over a 30 times, (never on an evo though) it sounds like the tensioner wasn't set to the proper gap, and the belt skipped some teeth. I have no idea why the timing belt cover flew off, that just sounds strange. You didn't have a socket wrench still connected to the crank or the cams did you? Anyways you NEED to turn the motor over by hand to see if anything is obstructing the engine from turning over all the way. If you feel that the engine cannot be turned over, this means you have:
1.) destroyed some valves
2.) possibly destroyed your entire head (maybe cracked it, I've seen this happen), cams may be damaged, along with lifters/rocker arms/valve guides
3.) Dented your pistons
4.) possibly damaged some your crankshaft bearings (unlikely but I've seen blocks destroyed from a slipped timing belt
However if the engine turns over without obstruction, you lucked out. Good luck!
1.) destroyed some valves
2.) possibly destroyed your entire head (maybe cracked it, I've seen this happen), cams may be damaged, along with lifters/rocker arms/valve guides
3.) Dented your pistons
4.) possibly damaged some your crankshaft bearings (unlikely but I've seen blocks destroyed from a slipped timing belt
However if the engine turns over without obstruction, you lucked out. Good luck!
#22
Originally Posted by kf6ytc
should have paid that guy in socal that does the $125 cam installs ..............
#23
people dont' get discouraged by this. cams are not that hard to install. dsevo, i'm not trying to insult you.
how did you release the tensioner, did you use the tensioner tool or pull the tensioner off by removing your pulleys and lower timing belt cover?
if you did pull it off, when you put it back on, did you slide your grenade pin in and out of the hole?
it sounds like you didn't have your cover on completely and your belt jumped on the cam gears and blew it off.
how did you release the tensioner, did you use the tensioner tool or pull the tensioner off by removing your pulleys and lower timing belt cover?
if you did pull it off, when you put it back on, did you slide your grenade pin in and out of the hole?
it sounds like you didn't have your cover on completely and your belt jumped on the cam gears and blew it off.
#24
I used the timing belt tool, so no, I didn't remove the tensioner. I took it to the shop and he said he would know by tomorrow what happened. I know the car was timed when I started it, so the shop thinks it could be the tensioner. I'll know soon and let you know.
#26
i guess u could have cranked the motor manually, but the pulley bolt like previously mentioned, but too late for that anyway. hopefully its nothing too bad. I applaud you for trying though, and still wouldnt be discouraged.
#28
Originally Posted by bacalhau16
i guess u could have cranked the motor manually, but the pulley bolt like previously mentioned, but too late for that anyway. hopefully its nothing too bad. I applaud you for trying though, and still wouldnt be discouraged.
This is exactly what I did, like 10 times, which is why I am so confused. I am absultely 100% positive the car was timed when I started it. The only thing I wish I did is take out the plugs, so that when there was resistance, I knew it was valves and not compression. I should know later on today what happened. At least I get oversized valves and a port job now, so it's not a complete waste. I'm sure the revolvers will love the better flow anyway.
#30
10 valves were bent. As I expected, the culprit was something pretty stupid. When using the spring compressor tool I used a nut to space it up off the head. I must have lost track of the nut because it fell in the timing belt cover. This explains why the car was fine when cranked by hand, but not while running. I wnet to the shop today, and they asked me if I knew what the nut went to. Right when I saw it I knew exactly what happened. So now I have a $2,000 grade 8 nut. Anyways, I am getting a stage 3 ported head with 1mm oversized stainless valves and bronze guides. The good news is that the shortblock is fine, and it looks really good for having 60,000 miles on it. I think my car will like the new head with the Revolvers. We'll find out next Friday when it gets dyno tuned at Harmon Motive in So Cal.