Data on various MY Blown Engines
Apr 18, 2007, 12:49 PM
#77
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Model year: '03
Mods: Exhaust, cams, cam gears, tme 6.5 turbo, manual boost controller, xede/xflash, ams ic with licp, ngk copper plugs (note: not tuned by Vishnu for these mods). Full explanation to come...
Miles: 35,000
Conditions: cool night at the dragstrip
Pics: coming
Race/Track History: coming
Contributing Factors: overconfidence that my motor wouldn't break. Spark plug ceramic around the electrode broke off and cracked #3 piston. No signs of heat or detonation anywhere. Crank and rods in perfect condition. Probably happened because I had installed a boost controller the night before and turned it up at the track a little beyond what the car was tested for. Also, I wasn't using the ideal NGKbr8 plug. I'll post up more later. Late for work now.
Mods: Exhaust, cams, cam gears, tme 6.5 turbo, manual boost controller, xede/xflash, ams ic with licp, ngk copper plugs (note: not tuned by Vishnu for these mods). Full explanation to come...
Miles: 35,000
Conditions: cool night at the dragstrip
Pics: coming
Race/Track History: coming
Contributing Factors: overconfidence that my motor wouldn't break. Spark plug ceramic around the electrode broke off and cracked #3 piston. No signs of heat or detonation anywhere. Crank and rods in perfect condition. Probably happened because I had installed a boost controller the night before and turned it up at the track a little beyond what the car was tested for. Also, I wasn't using the ideal NGKbr8 plug. I'll post up more later. Late for work now.
Apr 18, 2007, 03:51 PM
#78
Preignition is knock occuring before ignition, so basically the area above the piston grenades as piston moves up
Detonation is spontaneous combustion after ignition and isn't as catastrophic butcan blow off an electrode or leave pockets in piston.
The only way to tell if you have preignition is from the trail of engine material and chuncks of metal and aluminum
Apr 23, 2007, 12:51 PM
#79
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Actually C6C6CH3vo, we are both correct. 
A spark plug ceramic can crack for many reasons actually.
1. Dropping the spark plug on the floor. This fracture may not become evident until the plug is run.
2. Improper gapping procedure.
3. Excessive torque on installation.
4. Insufficient torque on installation.
5. Detonation. The extreme cylinder pressures that accompany detonation can literally break things, including the core nose of a spark plug. These pressures can also break pistons, resulting in pieces of piston and ring that can impact the core nose and break it.
6. Preignition. Preignition can either be caused by detonation or can occur on it's own, and usually melt things. Usually, the sealant around the electrode and the ceramic melts.
7. Water ingestion causing thermal shock to the ceramic.
8. Using the wrong temperature range spark plug
All it takes is one bad tank of gas
A spark plug ceramic can crack for many reasons actually.
1. Dropping the spark plug on the floor. This fracture may not become evident until the plug is run.
2. Improper gapping procedure.
3. Excessive torque on installation.
4. Insufficient torque on installation.
5. Detonation. The extreme cylinder pressures that accompany detonation can literally break things, including the core nose of a spark plug. These pressures can also break pistons, resulting in pieces of piston and ring that can impact the core nose and break it.
6. Preignition. Preignition can either be caused by detonation or can occur on it's own, and usually melt things. Usually, the sealant around the electrode and the ceramic melts.
7. Water ingestion causing thermal shock to the ceramic.
8. Using the wrong temperature range spark plug
All it takes is one bad tank of gas
Jul 14, 2007, 12:31 AM
#85
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Model year: 2004
Mods: See Signature
Miles: 25,000
Conditions: valve tick, shop said it was just that its loud liek that(similar to hondas?) but turned out to be a bad lifter. turned boost down from 2.0 bar to 1.15 bar for safety. changed rev limiter back to 7600
Pics: NA at moment
Race/Track History: many track days
Contributing Factors:alot of track days, and abuse. raised rev limiter to 8000 for one run at the dragstrip. then set it at 7900 for track.
Floated valve, cracked piston, chipped head
Mods: See Signature
Miles: 25,000
Conditions: valve tick, shop said it was just that its loud liek that(similar to hondas?) but turned out to be a bad lifter. turned boost down from 2.0 bar to 1.15 bar for safety. changed rev limiter back to 7600
Pics: NA at moment
Race/Track History: many track days
Contributing Factors:alot of track days, and abuse. raised rev limiter to 8000 for one run at the dragstrip. then set it at 7900 for track.
Floated valve, cracked piston, chipped head
Last edited by EvoEntropy; Jul 14, 2007 at 12:39 AM.
Jul 15, 2007, 08:52 AM
#86
Model year: 06'Mods:TBE,Intake,Apex-i AVCR,Turbo XS RFL
Miles: 4,604
Conditions: Wastegate pressure 95 degrees outside
Pics: none
Race/Track History: Tracked 3 times 12.4@109
Contributing Factors Just driving normal took off from stop light and went into second had avcr off gave it some gas to pass someone and BOOM oil went all over the windshield and car died instantly, Towed to mitsu fought with them for a month and warrentied it 3 months in the shop
Found #2 connecting rod broke at balance shaft assembly area and exited block and went thru radiator
Sep 4, 2007, 07:24 PM
#87
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it was a light ticking that comes from the back of the engine bay. I don't know if it was too faint to hear at other times but it was audible at about 2300-3000k and would "go away". I thought it was a bad lifter waiting for more oil to pump it up. I was wrong. I could not duplicate the sound without load on the car.
Silent. Changed the oil. ^ I have this exact problem. I was out and did a couple pulls last night. Nothing crazy. Nothing past 7k. Thus me changing the oil today JIC. WB was in the high 10's low 11's under anything over 1.2 bar. I punched it in 5th today to get a read on a/f and boost. 1.5-1.6 max then taper, 10's/11's a/f. Car was supposedly babied by the previous owner.
Model year: 05'
Mods: buschur TBE,K&N,Hallman Pro mbc, buschur deluxe FMIC, UICP, LICP, forge bov, wally 255, HKS 272's, Innovate WB, Greddy boost/oil pres, buschur dyno tune.
Miles: 23,031
Conditions: Cool night ???
Pics: none
Race/Track History: Tracked 4 times (previous owner) 12's.
Contributing Factors:
I have no idea. But it is EXACTLY what he's described.
Which doesn't bode well.
I have OP, a/f reads good. Ticking from the back of the engine bay. I put my ear on the timing belt cover, vc, oil cap, nothing. Sounds below the FPR-ish. Increases with rpm but does not follow it exactly, then dissappears or is drowned out. Audible at 1500-2500 ish then is drowned out. Very sharp tick coming off idle. Even in neutral. Not the typical vibro-flutter of a rod. Not a knock. Ticks.
I've broken a 7 bolt motor in a DSM about anyway you could imagine. Rod bearings, pistons, valves. This sounds like nothing I've done yet. Car has no symptoms or driveability problems. No change in vac @ idle. No more lope. Just a tick. But its not a lifter...
Someone shoot me in the head please. I have a bad feeling about this.
Sep 4, 2007, 09:23 PM
#89
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Nothing. Maybe two pin head pieces of silver in the whole thing. I pulled the entire fiber ring out. (old filter) If I broke it I did it last night. All I did was start it and drive normal today. So some piece of shrapnel would have to be in the old filter. And theres nothing.
Sep 5, 2007, 04:19 PM
#90
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at 2-300 hp per liter, is alot, but many are having spun bearings, cracked pistons and blown rods at alot lower HP/Liter. Is all of this from over-revving? Or an oil starvation issue with the oil pump not pushing enough pressure through the system. But overall sounds like an oil starvation issue or engineering flaw. Discouraging to buy an evo reading through this.
Are there dry sump systems available for the EVO's?
btw. 2-300hp per liter is a cake walk with a stock 2JZ-GTE block.
Last edited by AltezzaBob; Sep 5, 2007 at 04:56 PM.