EVOlutionary

iTrader: (38)

Just for comparison's sake, I sent my eBay o2 housing to JetHot for their Sterling coating. Cost a whopping $35. Way cheaper to do it yourself than to buy an already coated piece from certain vendors.

I have only heard good things about the Swain coatings. Nice pictures

EVOlutionary

Erik@MIL.SPEC

iTrader: (94)

Yes, but the parts from Buschur are ported too.

EVO8LTW

iTrader: (41)

I think EVOlutionary was talking about the O2 housing, which isn't ported.

EVO8LTW

iTrader: (41)

Anyone have any tips for getting those studs out of the turbine housing? I tried double nutting with no luck. Maybe I should heat the stud in case it's loctited in there (I have no idea because I sent Buschur a turbine housing with no studs and got one back with studs)? Maybe Sears sells a stud removal tool?

I just want to be able to get the manifold off in the future without pulling the whole turbo. And of course I may need to do some detailing on the manifold from time to time

BADEVO

iTrader: (35)

How do you port a tubular O2 housing?

superz

iTrader: (7)

Pay your dealership a visit and order the studs and bolts you need. 9 out 10 times they never come off and when it rarely does its usually damaged

By the way, I had my AMS gt35r manifold coated by Swain and it has held up beautifully for over a year, and this on very high boost I had seen and tried Jethoat coatings and there is simply no comparison. One is like a like a windbreaker and the other is like a goose down coat, which one would you prefer on a freezing day?

fsugatorbait

iTrader: (16)

He's referring to Buschur's ported/coated stock o2.

EVO8LTW

iTrader: (41)

What I'm trying to do is remove the studs from the coated turbine housing that I'm going to use. I already have replacement bolts, but what I don't want to happen is (1) destroy the studs and still not get them out, or (2) damage the threads in the turbine housing itself trying to get the studs out. Do you think I should just give up and accept the fact that I won't be able to use 4 bolts (rather than 2 bolts and 2 studs) to hold the manifold on?

BTW, has your Swain-coated GT35R manifold that's held up well been subjected to rain?

superz

iTrader: (7)

Oh, I see, you want to use 4 bolts instead of the studs that get in the way if you need to remove the manifold. There is a chance that the studs wont come off and break or damage some threads. I would just put it together the way it is, just to be safe. A torch might have helped but it will damage the coating. The coating on my manifold is perfect, although I dont take the Evo out in the rain.

Joey B

iTrader: (15)

In the past I've had a local place do ceramic coating, and it does work rather well. The other thing that this does is to help spead the heat evenly on the part, inside and out, so that you don't end up with "hot spots" which can easily lead to cracking/breaking. Unless I'm wrong?
With a thick outer shell, I could understand it is possible to get better heat retention, but at the same time you can still get "hot spots" inside which could lead to cracking/braking or expansion to the point that the coating could crack and then flack off....correct?

Here is the local place -

http://www.performancecoatings.com/

"Performance Coatings, Inc. offers a high heat ceramic coating that is capable of withstanding temperatures of 1300° F in Chromex™ and over 2000° F in Satin. In addition, it has very good chemical & corrosion resistance and possesses excellent thermal barrier characteristics, providing a dramatic reduction in radiated heat. This means reduced under-hood temperatures, accelerated exhaust gas velocity and a longer life expectancy for the entire exhaust system.

Unlike header wraps, ceramic coatings do not hold potentially damaging heat & moisture around the part. Rather, the surface temperatures are actually reduced, extending the life of the part. When cured, a very effective corrosion inhibiting film is formed that protects the part against oxidation and imparts excellent chemical resistance that further extends part life and enhances appearance.

Ceramics stand above all other thermal barrier coatings currently being used in combustion chambers. Ceramics have characteristics shared by no other product, providing an unrivaled layer of thermal protection to piston tops, aluminum heads, stainless, iconel and titanium valves. Ceramics "move" heat, reducing detonation and increasing the effective oxidation of fuel. When polished, it provides a highly reflective surface that further aids in improved flame travel. Unlike previous ceramic coatings, ours is not subject to cracking and flaking, which can lead to extensive engine damage. In fact, Ceramic coatings actually strengthen the coated part. The cured "Cermet" provides a cap of material that can withstand far more heat. During testing when sufficient heat was applied to a piston to melt the aluminum, the Ceramic did not melt, rather it held the softer aluminum together. "

I had the Chromex on my heat sheilds and vavle cover, IC pipes and other small stuff (which looks like chrome - see attached pic) and a Satin Ceramic on my mainfold, exhaust turbine housing and O2 housing (and this comes in four or five colors). On a DSM with a steel hood, this help cut down under hood temps by so much it wasn't funny.

So have a lot of ppl seen the other way as an alternative or better solution?

Zeus

iTrader: (66)

If you use www.performancecoatings.com (or any other for that matter) on polished stainless steel, it would be a good idea to heat cycle the part BEFORE you send it out to them. I'm not busting their ***** (PC) as they offered to fix the problem and cover shipping, but I had my SS manifold coated by them and it flaked off. The reason was it was a new part, and the polishing compound leached out of the metal after a few good heat cycles. Again, I'm not bashing the company, just instructing you to heat cycle your polished parts before sending them in. I'm wondering if other companies do bake the parts first as I have seen other's not having this problem.

Last time, I'm not bashing these guys as they were a joy to work with, and stood behind their product. I just never had time to pull it, and send it in.

Erik@MIL.SPEC

iTrader: (94)

Honestly, the BEST option in my opinion would be to have Perormance Coatings do their work and then send it to SwainTech. That's actually what I'm planning to do down the road.

Zeus

iTrader: (66)

Better talk to them both... it doesn't really work that way.

fsugatorbait

iTrader: (16)

Why? In your sig it says you have the Works piece which is a full 3", ceramic coated, and with the bracket to help support the turbo and a tubular manifold.

Erik@MIL.SPEC

iTrader: (94)

I understand, but he had his Buschur manifold coated, and then done by SwainTech. SwainTech obviously doesn't do the insides of parts, Performance Coatings does. Maybe you get performance to do the inside and the flanges, then have SwainTEch do the outside. I think you can do it, it's just that SwainTech poo-poos "paint" and Performance Coatings isn't about to say the SwainTEch is superior to their product.