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BLOWN Motor, Part 4 (Bottom End Pics!!!)

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Old Mar 14, 2006, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Stew
Agreed, but it is very unlikely that any modifications to the vehicle would cause a connecting rod nut to loosen itself 100% off of the bolt during engine operation assuming proper assembly. A more likely scenerio is improper torque from the assembly line / improper assembly.

I agree with you but you said your car had 15K miles on it? If the assembly or torqing were wrong then this would have happened long ago. It does not take too much of a loose nut to come out (it happened to me).

I would say a part had a defect and when more power applied to the engine it all went to hell.

Good luck
Old Mar 14, 2006, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Az3ar
I would say a part had a defect ...
Old Mar 14, 2006, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Stew

Ask the dealer or Mitsu this....

What are you selling?

They will say Lancer Evolution.

and you say so you guys never ever had a factory issue or defect? This is not a GT40 you know. Just like they think you caused the motor to blow they must think that it could be them.. Its 50/50 and all you deserve again is fair review and honest answer...

If it was you then be it but if not I see no reason for you not to hire a lawyer.

I got some waco driving ticket the other day but I decided to get my lawyer on this and pay him twice as much JUST to make that cop stand where he belongs..
Old Mar 14, 2006, 09:32 AM
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Wow that rod bolt nut should be clear evidence to them that it was a rod bolt related failure.
Old Mar 14, 2006, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Stew
Agreed, but it is very unlikely that any modifications to the vehicle would cause a connecting rod nut to loosen itself 100% off of the bolt during engine operation assuming proper assembly. A more likely scenerio is improper torque from the assembly line / improper assembly.

An improperly torqued bolt from assembly most likely would have failed way before 15000 miles whether is was under torqued (loose from the start) or over torqued (stretching the bolt into its plastic region thus resulting in a loose nut). An overrev of the engine, even slightly above the stock redline could potentially stretch a rod bolt and thus cause the nut to be looser than specs and work its way off the bolt quite quickly.

Once again, good luck on the claim. I think if you can get any kind of offer from Mitsu you should jump on it. (BTW I have two engineering degrees and a law degree so I'm not just talking out my ***)
Old Mar 14, 2006, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Hycomp
An improperly torqued bolt from assembly most likely would have failed way before 15000 miles whether is was under torqued (loose from the start) or over torqued (stretching the bolt into its plastic region thus resulting in a loose nut). An overrev of the engine, even slightly above the stock redline could potentially stretch a rod bolt and thus cause the nut to be looser than specs and work its way off the bolt quite quickly.

Once again, good luck on the claim. I think if you can get any kind of offer from Mitsu you should jump on it. (BTW I have two engineering degrees and a law degree so I'm not just talking out my ***)
I do agree. BUT, the only reason I am persistant is because there has been no over-revving of the motor. So far Mitsubishi has made no offers what-so-ever, only statements like, "This is not covered under warranty, because it is not covered."

I also have an engineering degree
Old Mar 14, 2006, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Stew
Once a LOUD knock was noticable the motor did not turn over 3000 RPM, but was held between 2000 RPM and 3000 RPM for 3-4 minutes so I could get off of the George Washington Bridge.

So what RPM was the motor turning right before the "LOUD" knock?
Old Mar 14, 2006, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by razorlab
So what RPM was the motor turning right before the "LOUD" knock?
started quiet at 1500-2000 RPM at 6:00 AM on my way to DnD, so faint it was barely noticeable. Became gradually louder after 100 miles on the highway at a constant 3000-3500 RPM. Somewhere in the 3500 RPM range was where it grew to "uh-oh" status.
Old Mar 14, 2006, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Stew
started quiet at 1500-2000 RPM at 6:00 AM on my way to DnD, so faint it was barely noticeable. Became gradually louder after 100 miles on the highway at a constant 3000-3500 RPM. Somewhere in the 3500 RPM range was where it grew to "uh-oh" status.
Didn't you say in one of your other threads you where getting into boost before it happened?
Old Mar 14, 2006, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Stew
started quiet at 1500-2000 RPM at 6:00 AM on my way to DnD, so faint it was barely noticeable. Became gradually louder after 100 miles on the highway at a constant 3000-3500 RPM. Somewhere in the 3500 RPM range was where it grew to "uh-oh" status.
How the hell can you drive your car at 1500 rpm? I don't think I can get my car to move at that engine speed. The pictures definately look like an overrev.
Old Mar 14, 2006, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by razorlab
Didn't you say in one of your other threads you where getting into boost before it happened?
The situation I mentioned in the other thread was that cruising around 2800-3200 RPM, if I *tapped* 5th gear (say 1/10 throttle) boost would build to 15 psi immediately, as if the engine was under serious load when it should not be.

Originally Posted by dohcvtec
How the hell can you drive your car at 1500 rpm? I don't think I can get my car to move at that engine speed. The pictures definately look like an overrev.
If first became noticeable under acceleration up to normal speeds. i.e. when you leave a stop light and get fully off the clutch at 1200 RPM and continue to 3000 RPM before shifting, the sound was most prevalent at or around 1500-1750 RPM. The car was not cruising at 1500 RPM.
Old Mar 14, 2006, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Stew
The situation I mentioned in the other thread was that cruising around 2800-3200 RPM, if I *tapped* 5th gear (say 1/10 throttle) boost would build to 15 psi immediately, as if the engine was under serious load when it should not be.
ah ok, I did go back and reread your 1st thread and saw that.
Old Mar 14, 2006, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by dohcvtec
How the hell can you drive your car at 1500 rpm? I don't think I can get my car to move at that engine speed. The pictures definately look like an overrev.
Are you sure you dont think that for every blown engine?

Last edited by Stew; Mar 14, 2006 at 11:30 AM.
Old Mar 14, 2006, 11:30 AM
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well give them hell, the district rep for ny accused me of using an abrasive compound or paper (sandpaper) on my wing and thats the reason it was peeling. i was like r u serious? also told me that my breaks were peeling due to break fluid when the breaks have never been bled. i wanted to kick his fat confident *** all the way around the lot.

so now my wing is still peeling, more and more everyday. im stuck with the bill to reclear it as well as my breaks. so stick it up there a$$ and do not take no for an answer.
Old Mar 14, 2006, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by nrcooled
There were no inferences in what I posted. Just an FYI. And you are correct it was the passenger side #1 that spun.

There are a couple schools of though on what happened to my engine. It's was more then likely attributable to an over-rev condition. I have never missed a shift or gone to second when trying to go to fourth. It may have been due to my raised rev limiter and running the car to 7600RPM at the track....over....and over...and over again. I would also occasionally hit the rev-limiter at 7800RPM at the track.

This coupled with using 10W-30 at the track (even with VERY frequent oil changes) was too light for a tracked car.

Again, these are all guesses on what happened. There was not enough investigation to completely decipher all the evidence to pinpoint a true "smoking gun"
This is correct 10W-30 is thin for the track!!!!!!!!


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