BLOWN Motor, Part 4 (Bottom End Pics!!!)
Mar 14, 2006, 02:07 PM
#61
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This whole dialouge is just plain silly
The rod bolts streched to the point that the tension was removed off the rod stud to the extent that a rod nut was able to back all the way out and fall into the oil pan
If you ever needed a smoking gun - that is about as clear a case of rod bolt failure as can be found
What amazes me is that the engine was even able to run long enough after the rod stud lost tension for the nut to back off all the way and fall into the oil pan
The rod bolts streched to the point that the tension was removed off the rod stud to the extent that a rod nut was able to back all the way out and fall into the oil pan
If you ever needed a smoking gun - that is about as clear a case of rod bolt failure as can be found
What amazes me is that the engine was even able to run long enough after the rod stud lost tension for the nut to back off all the way and fall into the oil pan
Mar 14, 2006, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Stew
The situation I mentioned in the other thread was that cruising around 2800-3200 RPM, if I *tapped* 5th gear (say 1/10 throttle) boost would build to 15 psi immediately, as if the engine was under serious load when it should not be.
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Mar 14, 2006, 04:37 PM
#64
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I have seen stock b18 non vtec (honda) rod bolts run 9200 rpm for years and yet personally see one fail. And those things are total weak sauce. Sounds like mitsu messed this one up. They cant build them all with no issues. Maybe you could get like a bunch of ASE certified mechanics to sign a paper saying that they think it was a failure in the production and not on you. Then take that to a lawer. Just an idea
Last edited by damianhindley; Mar 14, 2006 at 04:40 PM.
Mar 14, 2006, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by DynoFlash
This whole dialouge is just plain silly
The rod bolts streched to the point that the tension was removed off the rod stud to the extent that a rod nut was able to back all the way out and fall into the oil pan
If you ever needed a smoking gun - that is about as clear a case of rod bolt failure as can be found
What amazes me is that the engine was even able to run long enough after the rod stud lost tension for the nut to back off all the way and fall into the oil pan
The rod bolts streched to the point that the tension was removed off the rod stud to the extent that a rod nut was able to back all the way out and fall into the oil pan
If you ever needed a smoking gun - that is about as clear a case of rod bolt failure as can be found
What amazes me is that the engine was even able to run long enough after the rod stud lost tension for the nut to back off all the way and fall into the oil pan
stew i havent jumped in on your threads before but i will now (not a gasoline engine mechanic but a detroit diesel mechanic). first sorry to hear that your not getting much luck with your district rep, from the get go i figured you'd get some help from them. i do hope you get some resolve with them but at this point i'd be looking for a new complete engine or build one. everyone can give their own theory on the culprit but there is just a lot of varibles...point is your bottom end and top end its toast, now who is going to pay? hate to say it but if i was a mitsi rep i wouldnt cover it based on your FLASH and MBC, but i wouldnt leave you out to dry cause it sounds like mitsi isnt pin pointing anything from what i read. considering there is so many variables a partial deal would be more like it. thats just me...hope you dont have to fork the whole bill.
the over-rev theory is good (raised rev limit), but even a spun bearing could happen and cause the rod bolt to stretch once enough bearing material was gone...or the bolt stretched then it happened. as for the skirt wear you cant blame that on an over-rev the damn rods broke. timing belt wouldnt have to jump teeth to cause the head damage...when the crank shaft slowed and the valve-train was still trucking on thats when you could have got your contact, which would make sense considering that 1&2 snapped rods and 3&4 broke valves.
Originally Posted by NDgsx
Extremely retarded timing would do that, your knock sensor was likely picking up a lot of noise.
Last edited by ashumo; Mar 14, 2006 at 04:57 PM.
Mar 15, 2006, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by ashumo
...when the crank shaft slowed and the valve-train was still trucking on thats when you could have got your contact, which would make sense considering that 1&2 snapped rods and 3&4 broke valves.
Mar 15, 2006, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by deadbeatrec
how do u jump a tooth? i mean i can see if the belt was loose but is that the only way u can jump a tooth?
Mar 15, 2006, 09:38 AM
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hey this is very true. im surprised that happened actually. the evo has a cast iron block, not something u see often. hey well maybe we will see some justice and mitsu will step up and help u out. im routing for u.
Originally Posted by Stew
It is not too easy to jump a tooth, but if holes the size of softballs can be blown in the block I imagine jumping a tooth isn't that far-fetched..
Mar 15, 2006, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Stew
My guess is whatever made enough contact with the balance shaft in the rear to knock it into the block and create a 6" hole caused enough of a momentary force to jump a tooth on the timing belt which would be plenty to knock pistons into valves.
If you notice how pistons 3 and 4 have the most valve damage, it would be fairly obvious that timing was jumped AFTER 1 and 2 broke loose from their connecting rods. Obviously #1 has rotational damage from valves definitely caused from the connecting rod slamming back up into it after it had broken off of the piston, shooting it to the top of the block.
The valves obviously did Not hit until the very end, otherwise the motor would be barely running at all directly after said major valve slap. Once a LOUD knock was noticable the motor did not turn over 3000 RPM, but was held between 2000 RPM and 3000 RPM for 3-4 minutes so I could get off of the George Washington Bridge.
If you notice how pistons 3 and 4 have the most valve damage, it would be fairly obvious that timing was jumped AFTER 1 and 2 broke loose from their connecting rods. Obviously #1 has rotational damage from valves definitely caused from the connecting rod slamming back up into it after it had broken off of the piston, shooting it to the top of the block.
The valves obviously did Not hit until the very end, otherwise the motor would be barely running at all directly after said major valve slap. Once a LOUD knock was noticable the motor did not turn over 3000 RPM, but was held between 2000 RPM and 3000 RPM for 3-4 minutes so I could get off of the George Washington Bridge.
I still can not beleive they will NOT repair the car, I would be so pissed, i would proly load my desert eagle .44 and demand they fix that car or someone will DIE
You guys would not beleive some of the sh*t that VW customers get away with, there cars are under warrenty for life, all they do is call up and b*tch to customer service and they call the dealership and it covered every time.
Just like today, our qtm came out and wanted me to look at a problem on this ladys Passat.
The problem with the car is that when she starts the car cold, the engine lite will flash (cause of the famous 1.8t cold start mifire) once or twice and then go out and the car runs fine. We have done everything to this car, I have done pin out checks, compression ect...................... I MEAN EVERYTHING.
You know Volkswagen has made her car payments for the last 4 months because of this
If you b*itch and threaten them with a lawyer they will fix it. I promise, cause like I was told by my qtm "it is cheaper to repair the car than it is for use to get an attorny and go to court".
Just keep this in mind.
Oh yeah I almost forgot, powertrain = internally lubricated parts, which means anything inside that motor is covered that breaks or leaks oil (seals, ect..)
Last edited by vwjeff; Mar 15, 2006 at 04:49 PM.
Mar 15, 2006, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by vwjeff
If you b*itch and threaten them with a lawyer they will fix it.
Mar 15, 2006, 05:11 PM
#73
Originally Posted by Stew
Well the district rep seems confident that they won't have to do any work. I told him twice that I'm sending out my forms to the Department of Consumer Protection and his response is, "Ok." He even suggested another route for appeals, through some national bureau... I told him I'd stick with my CT DMV Department of Consumer Protection thank you very much, and my forms get mailed out tonight.
Mar 15, 2006, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Greg K
actually per the terms of the warrenty agreement you're required to go through the arbitration process before going through any outside legal action. Take a look in the warrenty book; it's all in there.
