BLOWN Motor, Part 4 (Bottom End Pics!!!)
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BLOWN Motor, Part 4 (Bottom End Pics!!!)
Well since I chatted with the distric representative today, and his explination of why he was voiding the warranty was, "We are not covering this under the warranty, because, well, this is not covered under warranty." - EXACT quote. So, I went down to the dealer and had them remove the oil pan and managed to sneak some photos to see what the damage looks like on the bottom end.. also got to pop 2 of the pistons (which were no longer connected to the crank by any means). Here is what I found:
For reference:
First thread - https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=188501
Second thread - https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=188847
third thread - https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=188966
The MOST interesting photo (I think) is this one. How would a conrod nut loosten itself from the bolt without getting stripped in the midst of all this destruction? was this the cause??? possibility, lets hear some thoughts..
Oil pan collectings
underneath
crank
cyl #1 (which is actually #4, but I'll stick to my original naming scheme. Its the closest to the flywheel)
piston/rod #2
piston #2
piston #1
cylinder #1 close-up
piston #1
piston #2
piston #2
piston #2
piston #1
piston #1
piston #1
piston #1
rod bolt from #1
rod bolt from #1
excuse any grammer mistakes, its 2 am.
For reference:
First thread - https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=188501
Second thread - https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=188847
third thread - https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=188966
The MOST interesting photo (I think) is this one. How would a conrod nut loosten itself from the bolt without getting stripped in the midst of all this destruction? was this the cause??? possibility, lets hear some thoughts..
Oil pan collectings
underneath
crank
cyl #1 (which is actually #4, but I'll stick to my original naming scheme. Its the closest to the flywheel)
piston/rod #2
piston #2
piston #1
cylinder #1 close-up
piston #1
piston #2
piston #2
piston #2
piston #1
piston #1
piston #1
piston #1
rod bolt from #1
rod bolt from #1
excuse any grammer mistakes, its 2 am.
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wow i have been reading all of these posts and these are the worst pictures yet. that is the most amount of damage i have ever seen on an evo motor yet. good luck with getting it back together...
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Well it looks like we have a very clear diagnosis now with the NUT actually backing off the rod stud 100% and falling into the oil pan
Which cylinder did that nut come from - if you can tell
Also a failed rod stud - is that the other stud from the cyl the nut came off ?
Which cylinder did that nut come from - if you can tell
Also a failed rod stud - is that the other stud from the cyl the nut came off ?
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holy christ, stew thats really bad. i wasnt expecting all this. dude i feel so bad for u, new 05 evo and this s h i t happens. i pray this doesnt happen to me. these are the first pic i have seen because the rest were blocked so i have been having to imagine all this distruction.
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Originally Posted by DynoFlash
Well it looks like we have a very clear diagnosis now with the NUT actually backing off the rod stud 100% and falling into the oil pan
Which cylinder did that nut come from - if you can tell
Also a failed rod stud - is that the other stud from the cyl the nut came off ?
Which cylinder did that nut come from - if you can tell
Also a failed rod stud - is that the other stud from the cyl the nut came off ?
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Do you have a cond rod bolt that was not attached, ie, in the oil pan with very little damage? If you do, then the bolt was probably not torqued properly, and just in time loosened up and fell off. If that's the case, the cond rod bolt probably would have just popped out and fell in the oil pan with little damage.
Anyhow, you might think of either getting a lawyer that specializes in automotives, or find a registered PE (Practicing Engineer) to diagnose the failure of the motor, and see what he/she thinks. After this, you can move to arbitration and fight Mitsubishi not honoring your claim.
Anyhow, you might think of either getting a lawyer that specializes in automotives, or find a registered PE (Practicing Engineer) to diagnose the failure of the motor, and see what he/she thinks. After this, you can move to arbitration and fight Mitsubishi not honoring your claim.
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I'm going to chime in here and I know I won't be popular.
BTW - I have not read any other posts on this, I am just responding to these pictures.
This engine has been overrevved quite a bit. From the pictures it seems that you stretched the stock rod bolts. One rod cap separated from the journal at one point in time and loosened the nut. The others probably stretched all at the same time but to a lesser degree. Once the nut fell off, all h*ll broke loose! The additional scuffing on the piston skirts also leads me to believe this has been overrevved. The piston tops don't show any detonation, so I believe this is an overrev condition.
I have seen this in many unprepared OE based race car engines. In particularly my own old Improved Touring race car. We thought our "budget" build would help us finish the season and decided to use a set of new stock rod bolts instead of the ARP's we would normally use. Mistake #1 = One broken block so bad that you can put two hands on the crankshaft!!
I hope I'm wrong and Mitsu will help on this, but...........
Darin
BTW - I have not read any other posts on this, I am just responding to these pictures.
This engine has been overrevved quite a bit. From the pictures it seems that you stretched the stock rod bolts. One rod cap separated from the journal at one point in time and loosened the nut. The others probably stretched all at the same time but to a lesser degree. Once the nut fell off, all h*ll broke loose! The additional scuffing on the piston skirts also leads me to believe this has been overrevved. The piston tops don't show any detonation, so I believe this is an overrev condition.
I have seen this in many unprepared OE based race car engines. In particularly my own old Improved Touring race car. We thought our "budget" build would help us finish the season and decided to use a set of new stock rod bolts instead of the ARP's we would normally use. Mistake #1 = One broken block so bad that you can put two hands on the crankshaft!!
I hope I'm wrong and Mitsu will help on this, but...........
Darin
Last edited by djtmotorsports; Mar 14, 2006 at 05:23 AM.
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omfg! Dude i feel so bad man, get yourself a good lawyer and dont take any **** from . Seeing this scares me more and more about modifying my car any further. I think im gona get a tune and call it a day after seeing this. My friend just started getting a ticking sound from his motor a few days ago, hopefully its not on the same road as this
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First off man sorry to about your motor. I know what you are going through, as I am on my thrid bottom end now on my car, and I have only had it 2 years.
Secondly, I have to agree with the overrev statement, but i dont think that it take much overreving to initiate the damage, then from there boom it all goes to hell.
When/If you rebuild, please be sure to get someone that is very very familiar with the evo (4g motor), as I learned an expensive lesson there as well.
Migel, tell your boy to get his car checked out stat. Or for that matter anyone that has a similar problem. If it is rod related damage, he may want to get to it asap before the damage gets worse. Evo blocks are expensive $1400+ new. Not to mention all the realated damage that can occur with all the metal shavings thats in the oil IE head/lifters, turbo etc.
I speak from experience.
Secondly, I have to agree with the overrev statement, but i dont think that it take much overreving to initiate the damage, then from there boom it all goes to hell.
When/If you rebuild, please be sure to get someone that is very very familiar with the evo (4g motor), as I learned an expensive lesson there as well.
Migel, tell your boy to get his car checked out stat. Or for that matter anyone that has a similar problem. If it is rod related damage, he may want to get to it asap before the damage gets worse. Evo blocks are expensive $1400+ new. Not to mention all the realated damage that can occur with all the metal shavings thats in the oil IE head/lifters, turbo etc.
I speak from experience.
Last edited by redninja; Mar 14, 2006 at 05:54 AM.
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Originally Posted by redninja
Migel, tell your boy to get his car checked out stat. Or for that matter anyone that has a similar problem. If it is rod related damage, he may want to get to it asap before the damage gets worse. Evo blocks are expensive $1400+ new. Not to mention all the realated damage that can occur with all the metal shavings thats in the oil IE head/lifters, turbo etc.
I speak from experience.
I speak from experience.