Ok, here's the deal....I've got 22k on my '03 EVO that I bought brand new. Roughly around 300-330 awhp for the majority of the time I've owned it and the clutch is FINALLY going! As you can tell from that statement, I don't beat on her and I haven't raced her ever. I'd like to Auto-X sometime soon, if not this year, next year definately, so I need a recomendation as to what kind of clutch to consider.

Before the flaming starts as to why I didn't search, I actually did but didn't really find many answers to my question, just what people think is the best in their mind, which is why I asked for recomendations from AMS, Buschur, Turbo Trix, and Auto-Xers. They are the ones with the most experience in good and bad clutches and what to use for certain awhp numbers. So as I am sure everyone thinks they know what to use, and yes I'm more then willing to hear what experiences you have, I'd really love to hear from the shops that have done installs since they have seen what works best. I saw Warrtalons experience with the few ACT's he's had (great writeups btw), and it seems to be a bit of a common problem, anyone else have those issues? So a bit of specifics about my car and what I'd like...

- Currently 300-330 awhp, shooting for 450-500 sooner or later, so I'm trying to plan ahead.

- Garaged year round, never driven in the winter months.

- I won't drag race it, but I would love to Auto-X someday. Not many, but a couple just for fun.

- Money is a concern, but I do understand you must pay to play so performance comes above price. If it has to be expensive, then so be it, but I'd like to not kill my bank when I get it.

- AMS will more then likely be doing the work since I live somewhat near them, so sorry to the other shops, but I can't take time off to drive to you, and with the way it's slipping, not really sure it would make it.

- I want to change my drive line fluids at the same time since it has not been done yet.

- I don't use it as a daily driver, but that could change depending on the repairs of my current daily. Things are becoming unaffordable unfortunately.

- I've had the 2nd gear grind over 6k since day one. swore up and down it didn't exist and it must be my shifting so they never did anything about it. Last year I developed the 4th & 5th gear grinds over 4500. I know it won't cure it, but is it possible that by doing the drive line fluids and a new clutch might help? Would it be best to do some trans service while I'm having the clutch put in? If so, how much to fix my above stated problems?

So what would you recomend for a replacement? What seems to work best? I've heard of a new name I'm unfamiliar with, Tilton, but it seems as if they are some big time company...but I could be wrong. Post here or if you've got pricing, by all means, PM me!

Thanks in advance to anyone that helps out, it's really appreciated, this is my first clutch I've ever had to buy, but not my first stick car. I usually got rid of them prior to this! LOL

 

Just call AMS they're always very helpful.

 

Yeah I know, I have almost always called them but I'm looking for multiple peoples advice. AMS is a great shop and I've done business there a few times. Some of the BEST in customer service!

 

If your ultimate goal is 450-500 whp, I would go with the heavy plate twin carbon Exedy if you can afford the coin. It is absolute beauty. If your a bit more budget minded, a regular twin metalic Exedy would work great as well. The twin metalic can be a bit harsher, but still far far smother than ANY non carbon twin disk I've ever driven in any type of car.

 

What do you mean by harsher?

Don't the carbon clutches need to get heated up?

 

Exedy Twin Disc

 

The metalic disks tend to chatter more and have more of a harsh engagement. The Exedy twin metalic is very very good about this though.

Yes the carbon clutches need to have some heat built up to hold well. The good thing about them is they act unlike most clutches in the fact that the hotter they get, the better they hold.

 

I have 35,000+ on my OEM and it's still doing well but has never been tracked. I just got a heavy plate twin carbon Exedy from a member on this forum. I spent the extra money because, like you I'm at 300+ and working for 500+. I want to do alot of auto cross and track days at VIR plus do some 1320' stuff for fun. More heat from slipping, works better, awesome. ACT will not take extended abuse in the 500 range. So I've read and been told. THIS clutch will. I should never have to replace this clutch. Also this is my daily driver. I want good clutch modulation and the least amount of twin chatter, for which I was willing to pay for. Also Exedy warranty replacement is very good from what I've read.

May be a couple months before I get this and a quaife LSD in, but will post impressions after driving it.

 

Thanks for the info guys, I'd still love more, especially if I'm gonna drop 2g's+ on a clutch

 

I just ordered my twin metallic today, and should hopefully have it in with in a week or two so I will have my opinion on it shortly.

 

I have a stage III clutchmaster in my car. Its the biggest piece of sh*t clutch. So don't look at those, unless you have a bone stock Evo!

 

+1

 

i'm getting mine installed at the moment whats wrong with them, this will be my first clutch install had my OEM for like 36xxxK pre-owned. burnt the snap out of it practicing launches and driving like 90-110mph from starcrest to SAR (those of you in san antonio)

 

i say get a tilton rebuild cost on it are very low you can read up about them and people could tell you countless amount of passes and still havent rebuild it thats says something.

 

I'm going with a Tilton in a few months, I can't wait. Just wondering, how much are they to rebuild?