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Stay stock plugs or go 1 or 2 step colder?

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Old Apr 11, 2006, 03:57 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Tonz of fun
Hey your qoute says 1575 and you can have 300 whp email how warr.
As Schuyler said, the link is right there in my sig above the thing that says $1575=300whp. It's called the Warrtalon/Buschur package, and that one is for Evo VIIIs (03-05). Click on the link for all the details of the package and how to order it (call Buschur Racing).
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Old Apr 11, 2006, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Warrtalon
As Schuyler said, the link is right there in my sig above the thing that says $1575=300whp. It's called the Warrtalon/Buschur package, and that one is for Evo VIIIs (03-05). Click on the link for all the details of the package and how to order it (call Buschur Racing).

Once again the A.D.D. Blinded me. I didnt see the hyperlink sorry for wastin your time...
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Old Apr 28, 2006, 05:11 PM
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i have the "NGK BPR7EIX iridiums" do i need to gap them or do they come gapped already from the factory? i really need to know this before i install these suckers..
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Old Apr 29, 2006, 06:50 AM
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The NGK website says to gap the BPR7ES at 0.032. Same for the iridiums.
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Old Apr 29, 2006, 07:12 AM
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dbdude - where did you see that.. I was looking for it too.. I saw that it should be >.08 of recommended... and also w/mods <.02-.05.. Please let me know(ANYONE), I was wondering myself
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Old Apr 29, 2006, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by dbdude
The NGK website says to gap the BPR7ES at 0.032. Same for the iridiums.
If you are running this wide gap with the mods that you have, then you are probably misfiring and w/o a sensitive logging device you do not know about it.

I have an LM-1 on my car and I get misfire spikes even though the ECU does not give me a check engine light.

Our stock ignition system is maxed out. Add 1-2 psi and you will get misfires. The car will run great, but you are getting a "blown spark" every now and then.

I have been battling this for a whole month now. It is no big deal, but the car will be even more perfect if I can eliminate this.

I have gapped my plugs down to 0.025 and still get the "blown spark" misfire. With the mods you have, you probably have this as well. Gap your plugs down to 0.026.
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Old Apr 29, 2006, 12:01 PM
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I had an advice from NGK to stay with stock instead of going to BPR7EIX.

Why are the stock plugs considered bad?

The stock plugs were developed specially for the Evo technical engine specification, weren't they?
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Old Apr 29, 2006, 06:00 PM
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how come the manual says the standard value for sparkplug gap specs are:

mm. (in.)1.0 - 1.1 (0.039 - 0.043)
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Old Apr 29, 2006, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by k270kmh
I had an advice from NGK to stay with stock instead of going to BPR7EIX.

Why are the stock plugs considered bad?

The stock plugs were developed specially for the Evo technical engine specification, weren't they?
The stock plugs are not bad. There are two problems with them. They are hard to gap and you risk breaking the tip if you do and the conductivity of copper has been shown to be better than Iridium. The Iridium ones last longer and you change then less than the copper. The copper ones must bechaged every other oil change. They 7-10000 miles depending on how hard you drive. The coppers are cheaper. You can get a set for $10. The Iridiums are much more expensive than that.
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Old Apr 29, 2006, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by evilevo8
how come the manual says the standard value for sparkplug gap specs are:

mm. (in.)1.0 - 1.1 (0.039 - 0.043)
Which manual are you talking about? The shop manual (FSM) or owner's manual? The shop manual say that the gap range is 0.028-0.031 in. That is for a stock Evo. The moment you up your boost by 2 psi all this changes. You will need a tighter gap with higher boost so the spark can jump better at peak boost/torque. Most people use 0.024-0.026. I am at a tight 0.025 right now. I might go tigther if I still get those dmaned spikes on the LM-1
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Old Apr 30, 2006, 07:41 PM
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wow this thread went big. So on the concept of boost. So the reading coming from my mitsu boost gauge is really off ive heard this a lot so if it is then i couldnt tell ya how much im pushing
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Old Apr 30, 2006, 07:50 PM
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I just switched from the BR8ES to the BPR7ES. THe 8's are the ones Smogrunner had on his car when it went kaboom. The spark plug just broke. Warrtalon is right, get the BPR7ES and gap them at .26. This is what Alfred from Tuning Tech recommends also.
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Old May 1, 2006, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 3K
If your running the stock iridium plugs you can probably get away with 7-10k before changing them, depending on their condition and how your car's running. If your using copper plugs I would change them at every oil change.
I changed mine at 10k miles just for safe measure (very **** about my car maintenance and they came out looking brand new. They definately can go beyond 30k miles, if you drive the car easily you can pull 60k miles out of them. I'll most likely be changing them every 30k from now on.
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Old May 1, 2006, 06:26 PM
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Hmm, I just checked and I thought I was running BPR7EIXs but I am actually running BPR6EIX somehow, is this really terrible? I have some used BPR7ES I guess I could regap and put back in until I get a new set of BPR7ES/BPR7EIX...

Advice on the BPR6EIX, not sure how I got them as I thought I ordered trhe BPR7EIXs... I did not check my order and just threw them in...
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Old May 2, 2006, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by evilevo8
i have the \"NGK BPR7EIX iridiums\" do i need to gap them or do they come gapped already from the factory? i really need to know this before i install these suckers..

Iridiums should come pre gapped
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