kmcconn9

iTrader: (33)

[QUOTE=MalibuJack]my buschur gt35r setup....

4" intake...sweet!.....damn MAFS

Looks like you retained the stock hard coolant lines, I guess you didnt have to bend them that much?

And I have heard/read that the head cant provide sufficient oil flow for bigger turbos? I guess this isnt true with the BR kits?

what bov is that jack?

Nez136

iTrader: (10)

[QUOTE=kmcconn9]You have to molest the stock coolant lines a good amount, they get really fragel when they start bending. I haven't heard anything about the the Head not providing sufficient oil.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

[QUOTE=kmcconn9]Head flows plenty of oil, in fact in some cases with BB turbos you end up using a restrictor fitting, non-bb turbos that may in fact be true, but I don't know firsthand.

The hard coolant lines required VERY LITTLE modification to fit, just a little careful convincing and they ended up fitting close to stock, the same for the lines on the block for the coolant, they just need to be bent slightly to keep from kinking the soft lines.

ANd if you look at the black box below my DLI2, thats the control box for my Karmann converter (blowthrough MAF setup) that allowed me to remove the stock MAF.

And the BOV is a Forge, I replaced it with an HKS SSQV since its a positive seal (this is one of the ONLY conditions where an SSQV will work correctly on an Evo) I had trouble with the forge blowing open with the heaviest spring, a shim, and even modest boost.. I gave up and threw on the HKS until I can figure out what my alternatives are.

kmcconn9

iTrader: (33)

So which one is it? Molestation, or ver little modification? I guess only time will tell, but I think I will have a set of braided lines on hand just in case...

I heard the oil flow part from forcer performance's site, and a couple people here on the boards..here is the link for the fp info..

http://www.forcedperformance.net/faq.aspx
Why do people say it's not good to get oil feed for the turbo off the cylinder head? Should I use a filter on my oil supply line to my turbo?
There are plenty of people who have oiled their turbo off the head and not had any problems, there are just as many if not more that have done it and had recurring turbo failure that was only vaguely described by the repair shop as "poor lubrication".
Oil pressure in the cylinder head on a stock 4G63 engine can be less than 5psi at times, while this may be enough oil for a factory 14b, T25 or even 20g it isn't enough to feed the high volume oil passages of the modified thrust setup in your FPGreen or FPRed model turbo. The Garrett severe duty 360 thrust setups also have an increased appetite for lubrication. Think twice before feeding either of these type turbos from the head.

Remember that you aren't just trying to keep some oil on the bearing, you are trying to float one piece of metal above another piece of metal on a pressurized film of oil, and at the same time keep the whole mess cool enough not to melt. A constant high volume stream of oil does just that, a measly trickle will send you back to the turbo shop.

One exception to this is the Ballistic Concepts Ball Bearing CHRA from Garrett. These turbochargers are totally different internally. Their operation is actually impeded by too much oil. It is fine to supply these turbos with oil from the head. In fact the oil line we offer comes from the head and features a .8mm orifice to restrict the oil flow to the turbo . These turbos require water cooling in the absence of the typical high volume of oil that would normally provide stable temperatures.

As far as filters go, you're damned if you do and you're damned if you don't. You shouldn't need one in your oil line. Failures occur due to dirt/grit in the oil making it into the turbocharger. Failures also occur due to plugged filters. We have seen it both ways. If you are going to use a filter, check it often. The most important thing you can do to avoid oil contamination of you turbo is to THUROUGHLY wash everything more than once before assembling your engine. Avoid sandblasting anything that goes inside or onto the engine. Specifically avoid sandblasting your valve cover. If you suspect that the machine shop that did your valve job sandblasted your head then make sure you remove the 4 plugs from each end of the head that cover the ends of the oil gallies and wash the gallies out with HOT SOAPY WATER. If you do this you will be amazed at what comes out of your beautifully machined freshly rebuilt head.

If you think all that is a bunch of crap, at least spin the engine over to prime the oil system without the turbo attached so that anything in the gallies has a chance to flush out instead of flush into your new turbo.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

the evo head is capable of flowing the required oil to a BB turbo.. a standard non-bb turbo may be different, but the fitting supplied with many of these turbos on the oil inlet comes with a restrictor, that reduces the volume and raises the pressure.. Honestly I don't remember seeing it on my turbo, but there was a pre-installed fitting on mine which I assume had the restrictor on it.. The volume of oil provided by the head is enough to fill the line, and pressurize it, in turn the restrictor reduces the volume (and also raises the pressure, fluid dynamics are a cool thing) At least this applied to my Buschur kit with the GT35r (ballbearing turbo of course).. I have not installed dozens of kits to see all the variations..

Also understand that much of the 4G63 info published is specifically derived from the DSM motor, its clearly documented that the Evo engine has been revised, Oil squirters, presumably larger and less restrictive oil galleys, etc. The DIY suggestions for priming, cleaning, and testing do apply though.. I would also suggest attaching the line to the turbo, filling it with oil so the oil can get into the turbo before you start it for the first time.. But thats just my paranoia..

Now down to those coolant lines..

The modifications to the lines was not very significant, it is however easy to kink them if your heavy-handed, and the alteration to get them to fit does require a bit of bending, but its not a huge modification and not very difficult if you take it slowly, and carefully bend them a little bit at a time until you get them to fit..

I had intended to use all braided line with fittings, but due to the tight clearances around the turbo, the fittings I had wanted to use did not fit (plus they were aluminum and I was a bit concerned with their proximity to the hot side...) I didnt have time to order all stainless fittings so I just went with the stockers.. They did come out looking real good and stock, if I get an opportunity I'll pull off the intake and take some better photos.. Honestly its hard to tell that I even had to modify the stock lines to fit the turbo..

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

let me add that the stock Evo turbo requires quite a bit of oil under pressure also, it has pretty large bearing surfaces and its used to cool them also.. so it will provide the needed pressure/volume for most turbos.. Again, if you have a BB turbo you actually need to restrict the flow slightly.. Remember most of the turbos we are talking about are both oil and water cooled too.. there are a few exceptions but this is generally the case.

kmcconn9

iTrader: (33)

Thanks for clearing all of that up jack.

kmcconn9

iTrader: (33)

How did you get the manifold nuts to go onto the stud and turn. The nuts that I recieved dont even turn because they hit the manifold.....

dryad001

iTrader: (27)

I can respond for Nez on this one since I was there helping doing the install. The kit that he recieved didn't come with any nuts for the maniflod to the head. Luckily our shop had a wide assortment of nuts that we matched up and worked without rubbing on the manifold. My kit was the same way.

I think Buschur should machine part of the manifold to accept a nut/washer. Next time I have the manifold off of my car I am going to do this since I think the seal from the manifold to the head will be a lot tighter. Just a thought.

Nez136

iTrader: (10)

well the numbers are finally in! I was going to get a AEM but couldn't afford it so im waiting a couple months for that. AMS flashed my ecu on pump gas (utec on map0 and comming out). They hit 23 psi by about 3900-4000 rpms and put down 415whp and 344 ft.lbs. The car drives absolutly amazing! pulls like a beast and still drives like stock! Thanks Buschur for the turbo kit! Thank you AMS for the block and the great tune! Truly the best companies in the industry!

High_PSI

iTrader: (50)

Sounds good, this is on AMS's dynojet?

Nez136

iTrader: (10)

Correct.

6-speed

iTrader: (20)

The numbers are in the range of a 50 trim on pump, but I'm sure this turbo has better top end.

By the looks of it you really need either alcohol injection or race gas to make this turbo wake up (just look at Buschurs dyno of pump gas versus race gas of this turbo).

Do you plan on running it with alcohol at all?

BTW, I really enjoyed this thread; the 3065 is a turbo I'm looking at for an upgrade.

Keep us posted.

Stinkapuss

iTrader: (10)

Can you post the sheet or run file? Also is this with alcohol?

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

Maurice...dude, gimme your damn turbo! PM me with your plans ASAP!