Buschur Air Filter Kit...
#31
Originally posted by Fireball
If you guys are finished...
It's pretty easy to solve the debate if this air filter helps at all. David Buschur dynoed his Evo with the factory air box, and then took JUST that out and put the air filter on. He gained 4whp and 7ft/lbs of torque, just doing that. Dyno numbers are hard to disprove there.
So, in closing (no more arguments about cold air intake, this isn't one of them), it does help a little, and sounds way cool. Good spending of $80 if you ask me.
If you guys are finished...
It's pretty easy to solve the debate if this air filter helps at all. David Buschur dynoed his Evo with the factory air box, and then took JUST that out and put the air filter on. He gained 4whp and 7ft/lbs of torque, just doing that. Dyno numbers are hard to disprove there.
So, in closing (no more arguments about cold air intake, this isn't one of them), it does help a little, and sounds way cool. Good spending of $80 if you ask me.
It may be a good filter setup, but this test does not prove anything about cold air induction. Maybe Dave would get 10 hp with the a cold air source? Who knows, we don't yet it has to be measured directly.
A couple of evo owners in the UK have measures temps in a VI and found something similar to what Turboniam reported.
Erik
#33
I just read on this thread and thought I would add some of my own thoughts. I have done thermocouple testing on turbo cars (none on the EVO yet, sorry) to develop and test performance parts.
First of all, there are several factors that affect performance on a turbo car. The idea that "the turbo is going to heat it up anyways so what does it matter" is incorrect. Any vendor who is trying to sell "pod" intakes on that premise is mistaken.
Turbo cars have several basic factors which affect the power output as related to the intake system pre-turbo.
1. Colder intake air makes more power
2. Less restrictive intake air makes more power (turbo doesn't work as hard)
Making the turbo work harder to get the boost pressure you want will end up in less efficient operation of the turbo. The more efficient the turbo is, the closer it gets to the theoretical minimum increase in heat added to the air in the process of compressing it. This is important. Efficiency. Every turbo has an efficiency zone. If you are above or below the zone (by airflow rate due to: a) your engine displacement b) boost pressure or c) rpm or other things) it starts to lose efficiency and add more and more heat to the air.
The fact of the matter is, the cold air intake system has the benefit of colder air but it also requires (usually) longer piping and possibly more bends. This creates more suction restistance.
The short ram or pod filter, on the other hand, has less suction resistance and more heat. In can be a tradeoff and usually each car will benefit more from one or the other. Most turbo cars happen to benefit more from the pod intake because turbos work off of several pressure differentials, among other things (the pressure thing mentioned above). You want minimal resistance to the air being sucked in and minimal resistance to the exhaust being pushed out. Thus high flow exhaust systems and low resistance intake systems.
The problem with dynoing turbo cars with fancy intake stuff is that the intake system doesn't always work properly when sitting still. Ditto for true ram-air systems. The question about the Buschur dyno test is whether or not the hood was closed. If it wasn't, then his pod intake could easily beat the restrictive airbox system. The stock system was designed to put high priority to avoiding engine heat and if the hood was up anyways the stock system is giving up flow restriction for air that would've been cold anyways on the dyno.
OTOH, the pod system will have a little harder time surpasing the stock airbox if the hood was shut. It may flow well but it does end up pulling hotter air. The problem is, the real world conditions lie somewhere between the two. I would still expect the pod intake to yield gains in power, but it may be sucking a bit hotter air while sitting still in traffic as Turboniam demonstrated. I think the stock airbox will lag behind farther as your particular Evo moves farther from stock levels and requires more and more air.
Regarding the stock airbox system, the front lip of the hood is a high pressure area while the car is in motion. The intake does indeed pull air through there; trust me. Many turbo cars have this type of system. As much development and evolution as they have done on the Lancer Evo, I think it's safe to say they would be using a different type of intake if they could.
BTW, the best system would be a pod intake with a well designed heatshield. This would, in essence, be a much higher flow version of the stock airbox which is what we ultimately want.
Happy Boosting
Mark
www.Quantum-Racing.com
First of all, there are several factors that affect performance on a turbo car. The idea that "the turbo is going to heat it up anyways so what does it matter" is incorrect. Any vendor who is trying to sell "pod" intakes on that premise is mistaken.
Turbo cars have several basic factors which affect the power output as related to the intake system pre-turbo.
1. Colder intake air makes more power
2. Less restrictive intake air makes more power (turbo doesn't work as hard)
Making the turbo work harder to get the boost pressure you want will end up in less efficient operation of the turbo. The more efficient the turbo is, the closer it gets to the theoretical minimum increase in heat added to the air in the process of compressing it. This is important. Efficiency. Every turbo has an efficiency zone. If you are above or below the zone (by airflow rate due to: a) your engine displacement b) boost pressure or c) rpm or other things) it starts to lose efficiency and add more and more heat to the air.
The fact of the matter is, the cold air intake system has the benefit of colder air but it also requires (usually) longer piping and possibly more bends. This creates more suction restistance.
The short ram or pod filter, on the other hand, has less suction resistance and more heat. In can be a tradeoff and usually each car will benefit more from one or the other. Most turbo cars happen to benefit more from the pod intake because turbos work off of several pressure differentials, among other things (the pressure thing mentioned above). You want minimal resistance to the air being sucked in and minimal resistance to the exhaust being pushed out. Thus high flow exhaust systems and low resistance intake systems.
The problem with dynoing turbo cars with fancy intake stuff is that the intake system doesn't always work properly when sitting still. Ditto for true ram-air systems. The question about the Buschur dyno test is whether or not the hood was closed. If it wasn't, then his pod intake could easily beat the restrictive airbox system. The stock system was designed to put high priority to avoiding engine heat and if the hood was up anyways the stock system is giving up flow restriction for air that would've been cold anyways on the dyno.
OTOH, the pod system will have a little harder time surpasing the stock airbox if the hood was shut. It may flow well but it does end up pulling hotter air. The problem is, the real world conditions lie somewhere between the two. I would still expect the pod intake to yield gains in power, but it may be sucking a bit hotter air while sitting still in traffic as Turboniam demonstrated. I think the stock airbox will lag behind farther as your particular Evo moves farther from stock levels and requires more and more air.
Regarding the stock airbox system, the front lip of the hood is a high pressure area while the car is in motion. The intake does indeed pull air through there; trust me. Many turbo cars have this type of system. As much development and evolution as they have done on the Lancer Evo, I think it's safe to say they would be using a different type of intake if they could.
BTW, the best system would be a pod intake with a well designed heatshield. This would, in essence, be a much higher flow version of the stock airbox which is what we ultimately want.
Happy Boosting
Mark
www.Quantum-Racing.com
#38
Originally posted by mayhem
If the cone filter is better why didn't use it to begin with?
If the cone filter is better why didn't use it to begin with?
#39
Its been really interesting reading the 'discussion' about cold air VS cone in bay, and both sides made good points. Thanks for sharing
But one question did slip through the masses of responses that caught my attention. Is is bad to use an 'oiled' filter with the MAF setup on the Evo? What kind of problems can I expect, and any ways around them?
Thanks for all the info
But one question did slip through the masses of responses that caught my attention. Is is bad to use an 'oiled' filter with the MAF setup on the Evo? What kind of problems can I expect, and any ways around them?
Thanks for all the info
#40
Both have good points. Although I have learned a lot from this thread. I would like to put a intake similar to buschars or rmr. I would like to hear what people would have to say. I don't want to put it in and find out that more heat is causing it be worse than stock.
#41
Originally posted by mayhem
If the cone filter is better why didn't use it to begin with?
If the cone filter is better why didn't use it to begin with?
When the cars first arrived, we had people on here complaining about rattles and the harsh ride and etc etc. Much more noise out of the intake and people would have been complaining about that too. Remember, the people on this forum are only a fraction of the people who buy this car - 's traditional Evo buyer is a slightly different picture (based on the results of the demographics thread) than the extreme enthusiasts who populate this board.
#42
Originally posted by mobius97
I dont think many cars come with a conical filter. Some may but from my experience most don't. Alot of cars are built for the common joe blow. Noise Reduction?Cheaper?Emissions? Could be a number of different reasons. Thats the same as saying that the stock exhaust is better than an aftermarket one..same could be said about the plastic CBV. Just becuase the manufacturer put something into production on the vehicle doesnt mean they had complete performance parts in mind.
I dont think many cars come with a conical filter. Some may but from my experience most don't. Alot of cars are built for the common joe blow. Noise Reduction?Cheaper?Emissions? Could be a number of different reasons. Thats the same as saying that the stock exhaust is better than an aftermarket one..same could be said about the plastic CBV. Just becuase the manufacturer put something into production on the vehicle doesnt mean they had complete performance parts in mind.
#43
How about profit? Ever notice that KN filters have a lifetime warranty, and never need to be replaced? If car companies used that type of filter, that would be one less way they could make money. And if you don't already know, there is BIG money in car maintenence, and not just for the parts.
As far as "cold air" intakes go. I'm honestly sick of everyone talking about CAI and heat shields and whatever else they think is going to lower the temperature of the air going into the engine half a degree. Has anyone ever posted any data with air density and oxygen content versus air temperature? Not that I've ever seen.
Personally, I think the reason so called CAI intakes work "better" than SRI is more because of air FLOW, not air temperature. Since they often have longer and smoother piping, airflow is less turbulent and therefor can flow at greater rates.
Remember when they dyno those things, they can only ATTEMPT to mimic real airflow at say, 40 mph, or whatever. I don't believe that at 40 mph there is this HUGE difference in intake temperature from INSIDE an SRI and a CAI (which has much more heat conductive piping for that matter).
So until someone creates a sweet little water-cooled intake setup for NA engines, I say most any open air intake system will show improvements over restrictive stock intakes (and not all stock intakes are).
As far as "cold air" intakes go. I'm honestly sick of everyone talking about CAI and heat shields and whatever else they think is going to lower the temperature of the air going into the engine half a degree. Has anyone ever posted any data with air density and oxygen content versus air temperature? Not that I've ever seen.
Personally, I think the reason so called CAI intakes work "better" than SRI is more because of air FLOW, not air temperature. Since they often have longer and smoother piping, airflow is less turbulent and therefor can flow at greater rates.
Remember when they dyno those things, they can only ATTEMPT to mimic real airflow at say, 40 mph, or whatever. I don't believe that at 40 mph there is this HUGE difference in intake temperature from INSIDE an SRI and a CAI (which has much more heat conductive piping for that matter).
So until someone creates a sweet little water-cooled intake setup for NA engines, I say most any open air intake system will show improvements over restrictive stock intakes (and not all stock intakes are).
Last edited by purecoda; Apr 22, 2003 at 09:49 PM.
#44
Originally posted by purecoda
Has anyone ever posted any data with air density and oxygen content versus air temperature?
Has anyone ever posted any data with air density and oxygen content versus air temperature?
K&N filters are expensive compared to what Mitsubishi pays for the filter your EVO comes with. They know you'll just change it out to your own preference anyways.
Mark
www.Quantum-Racing.com
#45
Re: Buschur Air Filter Kit...
Originally posted by Fireball
Wow, this thing rocks. Very good looking as well. With simply this air filter on, I feel more power in my butt-dyno and let me tell you, the sound is unbelievable. ....
Wow, this thing rocks. Very good looking as well. With simply this air filter on, I feel more power in my butt-dyno and let me tell you, the sound is unbelievable. ....
Fireball great post! , is the material washable like K&N's? I would love to buy one for my Evo 6, but prefer the washable K&N's. Also, do you have to oil this filter?
Thanks