2.1L Spun Rod Bearing
#31
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by evo8urpride
I 1000% percent agree, but i'm just saying if there happens to be a flaw in the rod design, will you take care of it? you guys are good dudes and build good motors, but i do believe if there was a flaw Pats motor would already of blown. there is very little track time on his care how ever , he only ever made 5 passes at one track {prp} never been anywhere else or any other track,
Mark
SBR
#32
yes that exactly what i thought, but like i said I do not believe that will happen to his its broke in ,it would of done it already, lets move off this topic! how is your car running? ready to put some beer on it u-vrs-me at track? with stock turbo on mine? I'm up for it when i get t-case back from shep. after i crush you we'll switch cars an i'll beat you in your own car...
#35
are you saying that your evo is too much for you to handle, and that your affraid to go heads up against me? thats the way it looks... c-mon my car only makes 300+ a few, ur car made 400+whp you should have it in the bag.... dont be a pine rider
www.Ian@ucantoutTree/60ft/me-mark.com
www.Ian@ucantoutTree/60ft/me-mark.com
Last edited by evo8urpride; Jun 19, 2006 at 03:32 PM.
#36
Evolved Member
Originally Posted by evo8urpride
{GPTourer dude read what i wrote very slow and the re-read, i said if it a parts oriented"design" failure, like if it has something to do with the rod design, because if it is , then it doesn't matter who machine's it or puts it togather it would fail...... And SBR claims to had Designed the ROD so if Manley built the rod to SBR's exact spec Wouldn't the problem be SBR's.....
#38
so wait a min here. your telling me you would blame manley? {Example}well ok lets say you come to me and i'm a racefuel maker and you design some new formula for race gas that your sure will work, i mix it up/make it the "exact"way you tell me 100% to your spec "and its so post to be say 140octane on your calc and after we tested it, actually only was 100 octane, that it would be my fault..?? Well I'm sorry but i do not agree and i dont believe anyone else will either
#39
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (6)
I am very sorry to see this sort of thing happen. Obviously, it creates considerable inconvenience and expense.
A 2.1L 4 cyl engine making 400bhp is akin to a 4.2L V8 making 800 bhp. Think about what the reciprocating assembly components have to withstand to live with that level of punishment. What would you do in assembling an 800 bhp V8 that is expected to last?
If one is building an engine that is expected to deliver that type of output and turn 8000 rpm, proper torque and clearances with all fasteners and friction surfaces is an absolute must. One can get away with guesstimating with an assembly of a 150hp engine, but that won't work in this case. In no way should building a high hp EVO shortblock be regarded as a casual affair.
When one takes shortblock assembly into his own hands, he assumes responsibility of proper assembly. I strongly suggest verifying potentially critical measurements such as deck height and straightness, block journal straightness(crank straightness as well), piston size and integrity, ring gaps, piston/wall clearance, all bearing journal clearances, and torquing all fasteners in steps and in proper sequence. Just remember that the more power one intends to put through it, the less deviation it will tolerate. Bearing clearance deviations as little as a fraction of a mm are significant. Here is a bit perspective:
http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/4380/
and
http://popularhotrodding.com/enginem...e_short_block/
Likewise, I agree with both articles that the best way to measure bearing clearances is with a proper dial-bore indicator, although Plastigauge is cheap and easy.
If one cannot or is otherwise unwilling or inexperienced in blueprinting a shortblock, have it done by someone who can and does verify all of the above. Yes, it costs more, but it costs less in the long run.
A 2.1L 4 cyl engine making 400bhp is akin to a 4.2L V8 making 800 bhp. Think about what the reciprocating assembly components have to withstand to live with that level of punishment. What would you do in assembling an 800 bhp V8 that is expected to last?
If one is building an engine that is expected to deliver that type of output and turn 8000 rpm, proper torque and clearances with all fasteners and friction surfaces is an absolute must. One can get away with guesstimating with an assembly of a 150hp engine, but that won't work in this case. In no way should building a high hp EVO shortblock be regarded as a casual affair.
When one takes shortblock assembly into his own hands, he assumes responsibility of proper assembly. I strongly suggest verifying potentially critical measurements such as deck height and straightness, block journal straightness(crank straightness as well), piston size and integrity, ring gaps, piston/wall clearance, all bearing journal clearances, and torquing all fasteners in steps and in proper sequence. Just remember that the more power one intends to put through it, the less deviation it will tolerate. Bearing clearance deviations as little as a fraction of a mm are significant. Here is a bit perspective:
http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/4380/
and
http://popularhotrodding.com/enginem...e_short_block/
Likewise, I agree with both articles that the best way to measure bearing clearances is with a proper dial-bore indicator, although Plastigauge is cheap and easy.
If one cannot or is otherwise unwilling or inexperienced in blueprinting a shortblock, have it done by someone who can and does verify all of the above. Yes, it costs more, but it costs less in the long run.
#40
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (6)
Originally Posted by trinydex
the mere fact that this type of thing comes with a 10k redline tag should already suggest that everything needs to be assembled perfectly.
#41
Evolved Member
Originally Posted by evo8urpride
so wait a min here. your telling me you would blame manley?
{Example}well ok lets say you come to me and i'm a racefuel maker and...
#42
Evolving Member
iTrader: (5)
plastigauge should be the absolute minimum used; it's pretty accurate but does not tell the whole story. If you're spending thousands on a build then you should spend ~$300 on some inexpensive measuring tools that will last a lifetime: 0-6" micrometer set with .0001" resolution, dial bore gauge set, bearing micrometer or ball attachment for conventional mike, inexpensive 0-6" caliper, feeler gauge set, dial indicator and stand. Oh, and a quality torque wrench- not included in the $300. I think that does it. You don't have to buy mitutoyo or starett; the enco brand chinese/taiwanese measuring tools are more than accurate enough.
Rule of thumb is check EVERYTHING and assume nothing is correct out of the box. Once you buy measuring tools you will be surprised with what you get from machine shops and even new parts; I know I was.
Rule of thumb is check EVERYTHING and assume nothing is correct out of the box. Once you buy measuring tools you will be surprised with what you get from machine shops and even new parts; I know I was.
Last edited by Steve_P; Jun 20, 2006 at 05:42 AM.
#44
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by blackbichGSX
From what I understand Curt left Slowboy a while ago, I'm not 100% sure but like 99%.
Thanks
MARK
SBR