keep blowing alternator fuses
#1
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keep blowing alternator fuses
So about a month ago I installed an odyssey mini battery took it for a rip and noticed the brake and battery light dimly glowing. I thought that it was because the mini battery had to charge. Turns out the alternator fuse had blown, it was 11pm so no stores were open. I ended up rigging up a new fuse, I bypasses the old 100amp fuse w/ a 60 amp fuse,everything turned out perfect. Now fast forward to last night, I took her for a rip on the highway got her to 150mph. I hear some noise coming from the front end, at first it sounded like rushing air, I thought i had blown an IC pipe, looked at my gauges saw that my rpms were still ok, thought maybe i popped a tire. So i pull over and realize that my front splitter had ripped off of the bumper. I ended up taking off the front bumper on the highway and throwing it in my backseat. On the way home I see the glowing brake and battery light. Pull over throw a new fuse in, start the car everything is fine, a min later the lights are glowing again. I do this 3 times with it lasting no longer than a min and half before they blow out. I remember that the 1st time my fuse blew out when i had my bumper off and now its blowing out again after taking my bumper off, is this coincidence? bcuz if the 60amp is too low than why did it hold up for 2months. I thought maybe all the wind from not having a front bumper is causing something to short out? I dunno im at a total lost. any tips or advice would be appreciated.
so my questions are:
1. 60amps too low for an alternator fuse
2. does having my front bumper off have any correlation w/ me blowing alternator fuse
3. why does god hate me lol
so my questions are:
1. 60amps too low for an alternator fuse
2. does having my front bumper off have any correlation w/ me blowing alternator fuse
3. why does god hate me lol
#2
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I'm guessing it's a bad cell in the Battery causing it to back feed in the + end shorting the 100amp fuse to protect the circuit.
Switch back to the stock Battery and see if the problem occurs.
.
Switch back to the stock Battery and see if the problem occurs.
.
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you wouldnt happen to have a system or anything electricly using alot of power from ur alternator.. because if you do it could be a problem.. but yea try it with the old battery and see wut happens
#5
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Sounds like short
Have you hooked up an amp meter and looked at the current? My guess (without looking at the car) is that you have a Short Circuit or the alternator cannot keep up with battery.
FWIW -- I HAVE NO EXPERIENCE with these small batteries and would call BR or AMS and see if there is an alternator upgrade kit that you should have bought.
Good luck
FWIW -- I HAVE NO EXPERIENCE with these small batteries and would call BR or AMS and see if there is an alternator upgrade kit that you should have bought.
Good luck
#6
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The small batteries have lower discharge potential so especially at night when lights and other accessories are on the battery can't keep up with demand and the battery light activates in the cluster to tell you the voltage is low. This is because the extra current demand pulls battery voltage down. The voltage regulator built into the alternator then has to trigger the alternator to charge. My guess is that the battery light is less dim when you increase RPM until the alternator charges the battery and solves the problem. Then the light goes out again. The fuses blowing are from the battery dropping below 12V and current increasing before the alternator can bring the battery voltage back up to around 13.8V.
I recommend checking the wiring near the front bumper. There is probably an intermittent short in a harness that can touch the chassis of the car. I also think that anyone who runs a small battery should put a slightly smaller pulley on their alternator. It will spin a little faster than normal and charge the smaller battery at lower RPM. You probably have a voltage drop at idle too since the alternator isn't putting out much when spinning that slow.
The battery is only to start the car and then is just a capacitor to handle any extra electrical load. The alternator is what keeps you going and when you change the battery to a smaller unit with less continuous output potential the voltage regulator is not triggering soon enough because it has a threshold that is correct for the stock size battery. You shoulod definitely load test the battery too, it ins't a deep cycle battery and each time it gets drained it never quite recovers fully and this will only make your prrblem worse.
I recommend checking the wiring near the front bumper. There is probably an intermittent short in a harness that can touch the chassis of the car. I also think that anyone who runs a small battery should put a slightly smaller pulley on their alternator. It will spin a little faster than normal and charge the smaller battery at lower RPM. You probably have a voltage drop at idle too since the alternator isn't putting out much when spinning that slow.
The battery is only to start the car and then is just a capacitor to handle any extra electrical load. The alternator is what keeps you going and when you change the battery to a smaller unit with less continuous output potential the voltage regulator is not triggering soon enough because it has a threshold that is correct for the stock size battery. You shoulod definitely load test the battery too, it ins't a deep cycle battery and each time it gets drained it never quite recovers fully and this will only make your prrblem worse.
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