Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

You'd also have to assume that the stock fuel map is still intact. Something that's easy enough to verify these days with ECUflash. If more fuel isn't being added for each successive load column at any given RPM, then you'll start to run leaner as the ECU hits the higher load cells.

l8r)

smokedmustang

iTrader: (7)

Yeah I heard that also

hashiriya

iTrader: (-1)

^^^

you would know!!

Ted B

iTrader: (6)

Too little ignition advance causes a great deal of heat as well.

There is a point with any given fuel octane where increasing boost pressure only causes the need to further retard the ignition timing, and creates no more power than a lesser boost pressure with more appropriate timing. What it does increase however is EGT, which is detrimental to everything in the exhaust system, including the turbo.

pog0

iTrader: (17)

SterlingEvo,

Hahaha... Yeah, I'm sure it would. I dont think I will ever have that problem. I was close though, I didnt full tighten the oil pan bolt and it started to leak slowly. Thank god I checked it all again before I put everything away.

Ludikraut,

I dont have my Tactrix cable yet to verify the maps by ECUFlash. Supposedly, Al tunes for a low and high octane map. I didnt feel any difference running 110 at 20 psi. Not too much more at 22 psi, then again it's only 2 psi.

BlackEvo110,

I run 91 octane over here in San Diego. I wish it was better but what can I do. I've only ran 110 twice to date. This will be my 3rd time. I know a lot of people who run leaded constantly and have had no problems. I dont think it is THAT serious with clogged injectors. Once every now and then cant hurt.


I do have the stock ECU, but I believe Al has tweaked my fuel and timing maps. It took well over 3 hours to tune my car... I sure hope they have been changed for optimal performance.

kjewer1

iTrader: (4)

Currently running DSMlink, I'm on the high load map at 2.1 g/rev airflow, which is very easy to achieve with a typical EVO setup. I use up to about number 15 of 18 load levels from the stock EVO ECU ported over to the 2g ECU. The EVO maps go up to roughly 26 psi, and the top 3 maps are extremely conservative. They target a very rich AFR (richer than 10:1 IIRC. For reference, high load map on the 2g targeted 9.5:1) and timing is as low as 9 degrees on the top map at WOT. This is why I had them remove these maps, which I now call "warranty maps," since they are obviously super safe because the factory knows people will turn up the boost as soon as they buy the car. So unless people are only making adjustments to the maps they go up to, each higher load level up to 26 psi or so will continue to get richer and richer. I imagine all the AFR work should be in an effort to lean it out though. I've never messed around with the stock ECU so I don't know much about what people do with it. I like having the 2g crossover of 2.1 g/rev though, since there is no ECU ****ery at WOT. Target AFR is stationary, so my changes are always applied consistently.

DynoFlash

iTrader: (91)

91 octane tuning is really a seperate world - my tuning settings are very safe at normal pump gas boost levels at pump gas bost levels

a/f richness has a certain calming effect on knocking and within reason going a bit rich will help you hold more timing without knock which is one of the reasons I tune on the rich side, particularly witrh 91 octane

regardless of the a/f with 91 octane you will knock badly if you raise the boost too far

My general suggestions are

91 octane 20.5 psi max

93 octane 21 - 22 psi max

100 octane - 26 psi max

116 octane leaded fuel - 30 psi

With my tunes you can just pour in race gas and turn up your boost

Without turbing up the boost adding race gas alone will not add any power in fact it may slightly lower your power

DynoFlash

iTrader: (91)

Remember the stock fuel map is a a/f target not a duty cycle

The load calculation uses the a.f target and the MAF sensor scaling (plus or minus other active fuel trims) to achive the desired inecjtor on time

With a properly set up map, the car will run a steady a/f from 19 psi to 28 psi or when you exceed the capacity of the maf sensor or run off the end of the fuel map

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

Interesting, I've gotta think about that one for a few ... thanks.

l8r)

boostin'

iTrader: (13)

So besides good afr's what would be the ideal target for egt's on 91 oct., 93 octane if tuning to say a 23 psi spike with a taper to 18/19 psi on a mbc? Anyone with a 91 octane tune with a egt gauge care to chime in?
Other then that ARE electronic boost gauges a little bit more accurate then the good ol' mechanical boost gauges?

DynoFlash

iTrader: (91)

What people seem to miss is that with most cars there is no general "forumula"

Experience and hands on time is what gives you the knowledge to know what changes result in what effects on the car and internalize all the workings

Some cars can run lean, some have to be rich

Its a matter of "feel", experience and some natural knack

pog0

iTrader: (17)

Al,

Thanks for the reply. Hopefully, I will be getting some great times next weekend at the 1/4 mile drags.

Everyone else... Thanks as well.

Rviscosi

The 270 deg. sweep electronic gauges are more accurate as they typically come with pressure sensors that are high end devices(starin gauges built in). If you do find a low cost electronic gauge, make sure it does have this style sensor. If you get a sensor or sender that looks like an oil pressure sender then the mech. stlye is more accurate. Find out the cost of the sensor before buying and that will tell the story. If the sensor is a 50-60 dollar item, its the accurate type, if its 10-20 thens its quite inaccurate.

C6C6CH3vo

iTrader: (9)

Thats why my car is pig rich with advanced timing. While some similar others were opposite. I shall keep it rich since the car's idiosynchrics (or whatever) allready been found by the experienced.

Rich with methanol and more timing

nj1266

iTrader: (6)

From what I know about WBO2 sensors is that they tend to be less accurate over time, especially on cars like ours that run rich. A sensor will be accurate at 14.7:1, but is it accurate at 11:1 after a period of use. The caliberation that the WBO2 sensor has from the factory becomes useless as time goes on. There should be a way to re-caliberate the O2 sensor after using for a while. Or the WB device that you are using should have the ability to tell you that the sensor is inaccurate.
I agree with you there. I have my WBO2 hooked up and I log almost everyday. I have amassed a pretty nice database in less than a year. People tend to choke at the price of WBO2 devices that can log w/o a laptop such as the PLX or Innovate and they get others that either cannot log or can log with a lap top. Lap top logging becomes cumbersome for daily use.