I've searched and found that a few people are running a GT35r kit with either a flash or an ecutek flash. They were posted a while ago and havent been replyed to in quite sometime. I wanted some updates on people who are still running the flash with the gt35 or if the switched to a piggy back. My main concern is i CANNOT switch to a standalone. I live in NY and we require the OBD port for inspections, so I must stick with a flash or a UTEC or soemthing similar. Please let me know if you have had any problems, whp numbers, track times etc. Thanx

 

You said you search but I do not believe you...... Smogrunner, and Gil(superz) ran either stock ecu's or piggy backs and made well into the 500's in terms of power with no ill effects. Whp numbers will be the same if not very close to any other gt35R'd car, tuning is tuning, changing a/f ratio's and timing curves through an AEM EMS is the same as tweaking maps in the stock ecu.

Scorke

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ghlight=superz

That thread is called, "GT35 and a flash... whose running it."

Here are 3 more for you.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ght=gt35+flash

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ght=gt35+flash

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ght=gt35+flash

If you did actually search next time open your eyes, it makes seeing the results much easier......

Scorke

 

Using a Vishnu X-flash + Xede with my GT35R setup. 100% OBDII compliant, 100% satisfied. I do not recommend such a setup without at least a good interceptor (piggyback) device and a competent dyno tuning session.

 

I did search....and I wanted to know if there were any issues with a flash rather than a standalone...and why they chose not to run standalone.

 

thanx for the useless links.....I wanted to know if there were any issues on a PROLONGED period of time. Cmon man....ive been on forums since i've been driving....I know how to search

 

The issues are if you have a very very very aggressive cam setup getting it to idle can be a bit tricky, a flash costs 1/10th of what a standalone costs, either thats why they chose not to run it, or like you they needed/wanted to be OBD2 compliant.

Basically if your JDM enough to sleep on the right side of the bed get a standalone, but if you want something that will keep a lot of if not all of the stock ecu safety features, be obd2 compliant, cheaper, more reliable, and easier to mess with, stick with the stock ecu.

Scorke

 

Prolonged periods of time? How would the length of time driven on a particular setup change your mind? Either a method of tuning works or it doesn't.

An engine/setup will not fail over time because of what is controlling the tune, it will fail because of the tune itself, the engine doesn't care what kind of tuning device is telling it what to do, it just cares about what it is being told to do.


Scorke

Sorry if I came off a bit rough man, it just seems like this thread doen't need to be here.....

 

The **ONLY** real issue with a big turbo and the stock ECU is the stock MAF.. And its not that the stock maf can't deliver the airflow needed, but I've seen a half dozen MAF's with collapsed honeycombs at really high boost levels, and others with cams just don't idle right due to the jumpy/low airflow through the sensor..

Here's your solution..

1) Blowthrough MAF conversion with the stock ECU
2) ECU+ with a GM MAF sensor (or just locking the idle frequency at 30-40hz which you can do)
3) MAFTPro with Speed density, or some aftermarket blowthrough MAF
4) MAP-ECU if you want to spend the time matching the speed density reference value to the Karmann output..

My goal on my car is to make about 600whp on a stock ECU.. Not for daily driving, but to say it can be done, I'd be happy with 450whp on a daily driver which is easily possible with my combination..

I am one of the few people who thinks long term.. many of the people putting big turbos on their cars, ended up with a huge headache either from poor tuning, or poor choice in combination, or overall bad drivability for one reason or another, or simply they got bored of the car and those cars either were parted out and sold, or changed owners, you see it all the time here.. Car parted, turbo kit sold, all parts sold, car traded in or sold to unsuspecting new owner as stock...

Anyway.. If you run reasonable amounts of boost, and have a good tune, and take the time to set the car up correctly, you will find the stock ECU can do just fine, not only that, but the drivability isn't affected much (with the exception of needing to change your driving style a bit due to the slight lag of a bigger turbo)

And I agree with Skorke, the tune, or tool used to tune the car won't cause any long term issues, a poor tune will, regardless of your choice in engine management.. In reality you might hear more cars with stock ECU's and Flashes faily simply because their driven more often than a car running an AEM.. Everything you choose comes with compromise, its how you realistically look at the compromises, deal with them, and work with them that you end up with a result that you can enjoy...

 

And I do think a standalone is a VERY VERY poor choice for a daily driven car.. Not only do you have to take Inspections and legal issues into account, but as a responsible standalone owner, you need to be very familiar with it, and it takes about a year of varied driving conditions and good knowledge of the unit to get the car running like stock.. Not to mention other quirks involved...

Also Federal and local law mandates OBD-II, whether its checked or not, its STILL Illegal, and I have a hard time advocating something that would knowingly and intentionally break the law.. Its not always possible to keep things 100% up and up, but I do try to comply with the spirit of the law.. Which is to keep the environment clean, and the car safe enough to be operated on the streets..

 

i also agree...

we ran a utec on the 35R before, with little to no problems... the only "issue" we had was a little lean tip in condition.

we are now finishing up our 2.3 liter motor with built head, and we will be running the 35R again, but with a flash as a daily driver..

i may run the utec for race fuel im not certain yet....

but i dont foresee any issues using the flash, over what i was doing with the utec before...

if you want to run 23-24psi on pumg gas, with a safe tune, i think you will be fine with the flash.

cb

 

I have some data and thoughts on being able to run over 35psi with a reflash alone, as long as you get rid of the stock MAF.. I'll start a new thread on it in the near future as my quest continues..

 

What ya worried about? Your local to me, you'll have the chance to see this all come together in the next few weeks!

 

I'm pretty intrested in running a gt35r sometime in the future. I've gone through plenty of headaches already with my car but i still love it. when i get my transmission back i'll probably hold off on the power modding for a while. i haven't had my car for about 7 weeks right now and its not something i care to do again any time soon. maybe later if i buy a beater.

eventually someday i want to run that turbo and try to get 500whp on pump + alky. shouldnt be too tough but im still pretty undecided on what EM to use.

 

+1