the-moss

iTrader: (3)

From what I recall air to water intercoolers work incredibly well for a limited number of passes until the water in the intercooler heats up, at which point they don't work so well.

If I remember correctly, the old Celica Altracs came with air to water intercoolers.

Trina, are you going to be trailering your car to the drag strip now?

deadbeatrec

iTrader: (9)

my point is, unless u are running a air-water ic, these are useless for the front middle piece.

o and turbotrix, yes they run one. i forgot. ok so they would be good for the turbotrix car, except the fact that the radiator is there as well

I'mStock

iTrader: (13)

I'd think that would be common knowledge... She's just showing off her new setup, not trying to sell them to everyone...

TrinaBabe

iTrader: (3)

Man, I seem to be taking alot of flac lately on here....

I posted the pics just to show others what Im doing... maybe spread some inspirational ideas to others or start some creative thinking.

The water -> air intercooler, especially when used with ice water, can supposedly get the intake temps under ambient. Considering my intake temps last time at the track were around the 145 degree range I would consider a 70 degree difference pretty substantial. Blocking off the front was just an idea I had to maybe help with the aerodynamics of the front end. After realizing once I put the plates on that it completely blocked the radiator I took it back off and made new plates with slits... the plates are angled slightly and I didnt like the look of the angled slits so I took it all off again. Right now i am driving the car with no turbo..... I have a straight intake pipe and a turbo shooting air at the ground. There is no intercooler in it right now. I planned on putting the PWR intercooler the same place that Turbotrix put thiers. I am thinking of doing something completely different now which would make it so I wouldnt need the intercooler.

And no I am not going to trailer the car to the track... I dont even own a garage, moreless a truck or a trailer

the-moss

iTrader: (3)

If you went this route, how would you keep the water in the intercooler cool on teh drive to the track? Or is the design such that you can easily replace the water once you get to the track?

TrinaBabe

iTrader: (3)

I was going to use the PWR Tube intercooler which has an in and an out. You would then run two lines (One in, One out) to a waterbox either in the car or under the hood. I made myself a waterbox and bought a $25 livewell pump to push the water to the IC and back. The water recirculates in the system. At the track I would just drain some of the water and put a bunch of ice in it.

kjewer1

iTrader: (4)

Air to liquid ICs have been run on cars for a long time, even DSMs. Anyone with NABR access should do a quick search, there is tons of good info there (as usual). For a race only car recirculating ice water through is the best way to go. You'll have to drain it and add ice between rounds, but that's the price you pay for ~40-50 degree intake temps For a street car what I would do is run a heat exchanger in the front an plumb that in when not at the track. Similar to what the Vortech aftercooler kits do, but with a larger heat exchanger. It will evnentually heat soak, so it's not good for road race, but for the occassional WOT blasts on the street with time between them to cool the water, it will work fine. A regular FMIC is definitely the simplest solution for the average person, but we are not all average poeple, and simplest isn't always best. Don't be afraid to think outside the box...

Ang Wen Yan

Or no intercooler if you are using mentahol

jbrown

iTrader: (17)

I installed a liquid-to-air on a turbo NSX recently and did a LOT of research on it before I chose and ordered the parts. If you are driving this on the street (as in to and from work/school/etc) you WILL need a heat exchanger (basically a radiator) for the liquid-to-air intercooler, especially in the summer.

A water box by itself will not be sufficient because the water will eventually heat up to the point of being completely ineffective and could possibly boil. At which point all hell would break loose inside your engine compartment or wherever you put the water box. Cars that run a water box only are strictly drag cars. They make one pass and then dump out the water and refill it with cold water and fresh ice.

As for the pump, make sure it flows at least 6gpm if you are in the 350-400whp range, and your heat exchanger should be at least 175 sq. in. to dissipate that much heat. I think I have an 8gpm Bosch pump if you need one, it's the one Turbonetics sells with their IC. It's been used for maybe 20 minutes. I upgraded to a 20gpm Meziere unit before I got the car running.

PM me if you have any questions, I'd be happy to help if I can.

TrinaBabe

iTrader: (3)

The pump I bought for it was a livewell tank pumping 1200 lbs/hr or some crap like that... the flow numbers made my A-1000 seem like a toy. Doesnt produce that much pressure though but its plenty to run through the IC and back.

We ran an intercooler setup through a friends DSM and logged the intake temps with normal water in the summer with no heat exchanger. The ~5-6 gallons of water kept the intake cool enough to do a a 1-2-3-4 pull so we decided this is good enough as we never would need to do that (At least more than once) on the street anyways

I now have changed the plan for the Evo anyways... it should be running on methanol within a week or so eliminating the need for the IC all together.

Ang Wen Yan

In stock internal??

TrinaBabe

iTrader: (3)

Yes, the internals are bone stock. The car is running on E-85 with no intercooler right now and so far is working wonderfully.

the-moss

iTrader: (3)

Are you making good power on the E85?

TrinaBabe

iTrader: (3)

Well yesterday was the first day I put it in... today I tried to get to my pump gas levels as they were. I have surpassed them now also so yes I am making decent power so far

Im still only running it at 21 psi but I do not have an intercooler... intake temps are now around 250-255 degF, no knock what-so-ever still. My logger (Whether it is acurate numbers or not) used to say just under 400 horses on pump gas, low timing, 21 psi... it is now reading just over 400, 2 degrees more timing, same boost but no intercooler.

I guess I will give it some more hell tomorrow and finally see just how far I can get this stuff to go. Also, the fuel is very strange.. smells funny and very rich while burning and seems to be kinda picky on the AFR or something... any small little tuning hiccups I used to have turned into rather large hiccups now. The cold start is kinda crappy and it doesnt run the greatest for the first minute or two. Lastly, for some reason the car started pulling VERY hard the last 1000 RPMs or so (6.5-7.5k)... the AFR there is SLIGHTLY leaner but not by much so I dont know if that is the reason it started pulling harder or what. The town Im in isnt the largest and I think I made enough pulls for one day. Tomorrow Ill report some more

TrinaBabe

iTrader: (3)

Well I got it to knock slightly every once and awhile now.... intake temps are over 260 degF (Capping out my intake sensor), running 22-23psi, 4 degrees more timing than on pump gas. Car cant hold 1st gear from a slow roll anymore. Logger is claiming 420ish horses with an extra 350 lbs of weight in the car.

I think I might try lowering the timing back down and just simply running more boost.. I think boost will make more power than the timing. AFRs are also alot leaner than I had before (If it was gas it would be around 12.0:1)

I am getting the fuel cell and both rails hard anodized soon and once its done and I get another set of injectors I will throw some straight methanol in there and see what happens I am trying to make sure the car is done and ready to run on Meth within 2 weeks to run it at the track. I better beat the old crappy 11.10 @ 129.9