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Variable Clutch Engagement

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Old Sep 11, 2006, 12:41 PM
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Angry Variable Clutch Engagement

I have an '03 which had it's stock clutch replaced after 19K miles with a ClutchMasters Stage 3. I drove 30K on it before replacing it with an Exedy Twin HD. At the same time I had the HD Twin installed I had a TRE tranny put in (the Mitsu tech told me the ClutchMasters still had some good life left in it, btw).


I had the following symptoms with the CM3 w/Stock Tranny that ARE THE SAME AS I HAVE NOW:

Sometimes the clutch engages very near the floor. Most of the time it engages a couple/few inches up. I adjusted the pedal to move the normal engagement away from the firewall. However, it would (and still does now) still engage close to the floor quite disconcerting in stop-n-go traffic. It seemed to occur mostly when the vehicle was warmed up.

A slower engagement (read slip) creates a vibration/shimmy until the clutch is fully engaged. This was a shock when it revealed itself AGAIN with the new tranny and new HD. I assumed it a clutch wear issues with the CM3.

The car was/is difficult to shift. The old trans/clutch got to the point of grinding with quicker shifts. The new combo doesn't grind yet but I'm assuming it will!


NEW symptom with the HD:

Sometimes when the engagement takes place very early, near the floor, the car will start to roll and then the clutch will slip horrifically as the pedal continues travel until BAM full engagement. My thought is the first disc is engaging but not enough to clamp tightly and then BAM the second disc engages.

I'm contacting Exedy immediately, along with the dealership, but wanted to know if anyone else has seen similar issues. I brought the top symptoms up here on a thread long ago and got no real answers.

I got the new tranny because of the nasty grind and difficulty in shifting but the new trans is very hard to shift as well. No grinding but it can be difficult to get it out of a gear as well as into a gear. It all seems like the clutch is not fully disengaged with the pedal fully depressed. I didn't pay all this money for essentially the same problem to remain!

I completely fail to understand how the problem has not gone away with a new clutch and new tranny.

Anyway, any insights would be appreciated!
Old Sep 11, 2006, 12:48 PM
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Try the ss braid clutch line...it provides a more consistant and realistic engagement feel...The reason the clutch slips is an engagement and disengagement problem...try a search on the clutch extender rod to move the engagement farther out as to improve engage and disenagae problems. I know this is brief in scope but there are many threads on the subject....Good luck with your search...I hope this helps.
Old Sep 11, 2006, 01:19 PM
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Re-bleed the clutch as well.
Old Sep 11, 2006, 01:31 PM
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I have the SS line and I've heard the extender rod is a COMPLETELY stupid move, not resolving the real issue.

I've seen those threads, but I always see that approach bashed to hell. What am I missing?
Old Sep 11, 2006, 01:33 PM
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Have you tried adjusting the clutch engagement farther out? Close to the floor might be too close. Mine engages about half way up and shifts well with no grinding so far on my TRE tranny.
Old Sep 11, 2006, 01:38 PM
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Yes, as stated above, for both combinations I've adjusted the pedal. The normal engagement point does move but the near-the-floor engagements still occur and shifting isn't aided much...
Old Sep 11, 2006, 01:41 PM
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Have you also checked that your shifter cables are adjusted properly? Yes I know that won't change the engagement but it could be the source of shifting problems.
Old Sep 11, 2006, 01:44 PM
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How does one look at, let alone adjust, the shifter cables? And where are the specs showing how they should be adjusted? Thanks!
Old Sep 11, 2006, 02:12 PM
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Try the under the hood shifter bushings....if you remove your battery and tray you will see the shift cables and joints...replace those rubber bushings with metal ones and that MAY help some...beyond that, go to a push style throwout bearing...I am not too familiar with the TRE tranny but I would imagine it isn't much different than a shep trans. BTW the clutch extender rod works for some and does help with engagement...regardless of how much bashing you have heard about it. I wonder if your slave cylinder is ok?
Old Sep 11, 2006, 08:39 PM
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Try adjusting the master cylinder rod.
When adjusting it be sure to allow some play in your clutch pedal feel.
Too much of it and the clutch won't disengage properly and not enough or NO play and the engagement/disengagement will vary as you described.

I try the extender rod, it did not do anything for me. If you want to try that I'll send it to you for $20 shipped.

Last edited by 600+hp; Sep 11, 2006 at 08:42 PM.
Old Sep 12, 2006, 07:35 AM
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tony gibson: I have underhood bushings - got them a LONG time ago also, they've been rechecked and regreased. The TRE trans came with a new slave cylinder also. We'll be checking fluids - I may do an entire bleed and replace with Motul, actually. I don't know that the TOB can be changed with the Exedy twin but will find out.

600+hp: mastery cylinder rod? you mean the clutch pedal adjustement? I've tried that, as stated above, with both trans/clutch combinations. I'll have to look into how the extender rod install is done, also. Thanks for the offer.
Old Sep 12, 2006, 08:53 AM
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Ibelieve there is an otion to do the push style hydraulic tob for the exedy....Should be just a matter of getting the different tob set up and installing it...which is loads of fun lol
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