futurevowner

iTrader: (1)

yea it def seems that whoever told u it would cost 5000, was tryin to ream u out!!! If u must sell it i would say replace what parts ofthe engine are broken, i cant help u with that one, then trade it in stock, jus my .02c

eLiTe eVo

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for all your help everyone. I took the safer route and am having my car towed over to a local motorsport company. They said the same thing in terms of $5000 being ridiculously overpriced without somebody really knowing what the damage is. They're really reputable in the area and I'm 100% positive they're not goina rip me off. I'll update as the situation goes on.
Thanks again everyone for your help and suggestions. If I do need those parts, I'll get in contact with you guys. Thanks again!

Jonathan

C6C6CH3vo

iTrader: (9)

How long ago and what events led up to the demise of your bottom end?

eLiTe eVo

iTrader: (3)

Sorry for the late post... i have been outta town for the weekend.

it all happened that one day that i was doing hard second gear pulls. after that i never had pull above 3k rpm (well, the turbo wasnt pulling the car nemore, or at least that's how it felt).

long story short (again) i got the car towed to a local motorsport shop that specializes in evo 8/9s and theyre fixin it. Costin me about 3.5k to fix it, and then ima sell it.

eLiTe eVo

iTrader: (3)

Here is the e-mail i received from the motorsport company i have my car at. let me know what you guys think:

Jonathan,

1. Your Walboro fuel pump is the main cause of your engine failure. We downloaded all your stored ECU codes from the computer and did a full scan. What we found was that your fuel trims were fine at idle and cruising. When the car was put under some load the air fuel ratios were pig rich like 9.8:1 and richer.

2. This overly rich condition under load over time would dilute your oil with gasoline and break it down to nearly a water like viscosity. If you over time have ever had Non Synthetic oil used in the car this would make the problem even worse. When the engine ran hot like on a hot summer day it would put massive wear on the bearings especially on high load or boost.

You have at least 2 rod bearings that are bad. We will know more when we take it apart the motor to show you if you let us do the job. It is good that you used a tow truck to get it here. If you have continued driving it you would have had a thrown a rod right through the block and then it would have been a very expensive problem.

So here is the break down of the cost to fix the problem:

1. Remove and replace engine $1,000.00
2. Labor for engine rebuild 900.00
3. Full Gasket Set 300.00
4. Full Bearing Set 200.00
5. Machine Work for Block 500.00
6. Oil Pump 189.00
7. Fluids (Oil, Trans,TC, Coolant) 150.00
8. Shop Supplies, HAZ Disposal Fee
(Rags, Cleaners) 50.00
______________________________________
3,289.00
TAX 164.45

Total 3,453.45

DanJ

iTrader: (2)

Definately get it fixed first. good luck. IMO it's time for a 2.3l

ONRAILS

iTrader: (7)

I REALLy dont think he bent his crank.. he merely scared it because he spun a bearing.. I spun a bearing also didn't realise the car was burning so much oil. I too had the slight clicking sound under light light throttle. but i only drove my car 6 miles.. and then traiored it to my local shop.. No damage.. needless to say im building the thing anyway

Ang Wen Yan

Time for BR 2L + T67 Setup and used as your weekend car.Smokedmustang(rash Talking King) EVO have more problem than you and he didn't give up.

FJF

iTrader: (18)

Was the ECU flashed?

EVO8LTW

iTrader: (41)

PM'd you.

CO_VR4

iTrader: (83)

A couple comments, based on the information in your post. Take this with a grain of salt, because you've already said you're not too familiar with the internals of motors, and the shop may be giving you better information than you're able to relay to readers here.

An awful lot depends on the capabilities of the shop you're dealing with. Once they start taking it apart, it's harder to decide to move the car somewhere else, and parts get lost, etc. if you do. You also get to pay twice for things to be done, in some instances. I'd make darn sure I was confident in the shop's abilities to do the whole job well before I had them do more than a basic inspection of the damage, which should not cost much (pulling the oil pan and taking a look at the crank and bearings). Save a nickel to start with, and it can cost you a lot before the job is done.

First, I'd not be too confident in relying on their diagnosis. You can't feel comfortable on a diagnosis that is based on assumptions from "downloaded ECU codes", rather than inspecting the mechanical damage to the engine itself. Nobody could know that a Walbro was responsible for the damage. That's just a bad guess at this point. Hundreds of people have upgraded Walbro pumps, and obviously are not having your situation. That's because the ECU controls the fuel into your motor, and if your fuel pressure regulator is working properly, changing the pump would not have the effect they're describing. Pump changes are done to make sure you don't run out of fuel ("lean" conditions), and don't cause "too much fuel" under normal conditions. Their telling you that this is the reason for your failure would cause me serious concern about whether this shop has a clue what they are doing. If you have strange fuel Air/Fuel ratios under load that would be caused by your ECU or by a pressure regulator failure. Did you change your oil regularly? Did you have your ECU reflashed? This kind of "we know exactly what caused it" would make me question their overall competence to work on my car...

Second, don't rely on their estimate. The reality is that nobody knows the extent of damage to the motor until they take it apart. The only person so far to have seen the damage, according to your posts, was your friend from "pep boys" who took apart at least part of your motor and tried to fix it. That may or may not have compounded the problem. Who really knows what's wrong and needs repair, until the motor is taken apart, at least enough to be sure you've identified all the parts that are damaged?

Your engine at this point may need a relatively simple fix, or the entire motor could be damaged from the metal particles floating around from the destruction of your bearings. Depends on a number of factors, including how long you ran the motor after the initial damage began. You'll not know the answer to that question until the motor is taken apart. If it were me, I'd assess the obvious damage first. Find out if it's just one rod bearing, or if there's more extensive damage. The shop says "at least two rod bearings". How do they know that? How does the crank look under inspection? Discolored? Scarred? Measurements? How about the rods? Discolored? How about all of the rod and/or main bearings? What are their condition?

After the damage is assessed, see what parts you need to fix it. When you know, you'll have to decide whether you want to just return it to stock and sell it, as you mentioned, or upgrade it and keep or sell it. If you're just fixing it to sell, you'd certainly want to consider Drift's offer of a stock perfect crank and rods, as machined cranks are not the best choice and the cost would be very similar.

Third, along the same lines, decide if you want that shop to repair the block/crank/rods damage, or whether you want to get a reliable short block from a well known Evo engine builder. As with any engine, it helps to have someone build it who knows what they are doing and has done a lot of them. ASK the shop about their experience in building EVO motors, how many they have built, how long they have run, and for references from owners of other EVOs with motors that have been done there, at a minimum. Consider other options. The estimate right now includes $900 labor for the engine rebuild, $200 for the bearing set, and $500 for machine work to the block (which would not typically need machine work if the problem is limited to rod bearings). That's $1600 for work that's directly short block related. Unless they took your engine apart, they don't know if the crank is undamaged, and they don't know the extent of damage to the rods, or how many are affected. If the crank is damaged, the price goes way up. You'll either end up with a less reliable "turned" crank and different size aftermarket bearings, or they'll tell you that you need new parts, which will substantially up the cost. If you have spun a rod bearing, the rod should be resized, at a minimum, and probably replaced. You'd be better off buying perfect used parts, like Drift's, than trying to "fix" yours. You've got the choice of a quick and dirty rebuild, or doing it as you would if you wanted the motor to have factory longevity.

Your other option is to have a shop like Buschur or AMS send you a rebuilt shortblock, with guaranteed parts, rather than have your local shop mess with rebuilding yours. Use yours for a stroker core, since the stroker cores don't need a crank, and you're getting a reliable and guaranteed motor for a price you are sure of. You'll still need a local shop to install your head, other accessories, etc. but you'll be assured that the bottom end of your motor is properly done.

Take your time to understand the problem, ask questions to make sure you understand your options, and most important, find a service facility that you can trust completely to do it right. You're going to spend a lot of money either way. Make sure you get a good job that won't cause you more headaches down the road.

EVO8LTW

iTrader: (41)

^^^ good advice, especially regarding the possibility of the estimate going up and the potential for additional damage from bearing soup flowing through the oiling system. In addition to the short block damage, the turbo could be hurt, the oil cooler could be contaminated, etc.

C6C6CH3vo

iTrader: (9)

If they have the credentials to assume your engine failure is directly related to the walbro (too rich), then they would have, AT LEAST taken a sample of engine oil to get analized.

The laboratory report will tell you the truth

joeymia

iTrader: (6)

well does it really mater why the engine spun the bearing? just get it fixed... the quote does seem reasonable.

JMB8606

iTrader: (1)

Did this shop drop the oil pan? It should cost about $300 and it should tell you alot about ur condtion of the bottom end. Bending the crank shaft is highly unlikely. The dealer replaced my spun bearing they told me that I the bearing would again spin in a short period of time AND recommended me to replace the bearing a TRADING it in. I went with a 2.3 stroker from RRE and love it. I have put about 230 miles on it. If your that type of person to pass ur problems on to others, I would also recommend trading it in. Ur car will run like new for 60 miles like mine did.