Busted Crankshaft [Long w/ cliffnotes]
Oct 4, 2006, 09:09 AM
#46
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Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
Push what to the limits? 19psi on a stock turbo? 
Oct 4, 2006, 10:07 AM
#48
This is what happens when you don't change your oil. As for using oversized bearings the customer already stated he wanted to sell the car. Oversized bearing will work good enough to get the car running and sold. It is not a nice to sell a car that could be a ticking time bomb but if i was in his situation i'd do the same thing.
Oct 4, 2006, 01:21 PM
#49
Originally Posted by joeymia
This is what happens when you don't change your oil. As for using oversized bearings the customer already stated he wanted to sell the car. Oversized bearing will work good enough to get the car running and sold. It is not a nice to sell a car that could be a ticking time bomb but if i was in his situation i'd do the same thing.
Oct 11, 2006, 06:43 AM
#50
Just a followup... date moved from this past Mon/Tues to late Thursday evening... which probably will just end up being Friday. I'm assuming this is cause they were busy with GT Live this past weekend. anyway, I'll keep you guys updated as to how the car runs after the repair.
Jonathan
Jonathan
Oct 12, 2006, 05:43 PM
#55
Originally Posted by eLiTe eVo
*UPDATE* my lifters are bad too. don't feel like explaining right now, ill post up the pics DTM sent me later. goina run me another $720 in addition to the previous estimate to get all that stuff worked out. ETA is now Monday
Oct 12, 2006, 06:01 PM
#56
why not do a motor swap? its not that hard and it'll probably be cheaper than 5k (i think, i havnt priced one of our motors before).
Originally Posted by eLiTe eVo
* UPDATE *
I have decided that I am going to sell the evo
i have been contacted by a shop that's goina do all the work to get it back to stock.. probly run me about 5k or more, and then ima sell my baby ;[ but ill be in the market for another car, not an evo... not sure what yet. anyway, afterwards ima just sell it to Carmax as ive heard that's the best thing to do with a car that's been through what mine has. any private buyer would probably try to low ball me because of the damage the car's gone through. Carmax most probably wont even ask. any suggestions? advice?
--------------------------------------------
Long story short:
i bent my crankshaft and was told to get a brand new engine. i dont wanna keep the car even when i do fix it. should i buy a new engine, buy an engine from a totaled evo (probly hard to find, or impossible to find out here), sell the car as is. suggestions?
Long Story:
i was doin hard 2nd gear pulls when it felt like my turbo gave up (meaning the car still ran fine until i got to where i shouldve started spooling, but when my turbo should've started pulling there wasn't any pull). i knew i didnt blow the turbo cause the boost gauge still went up to 20 psi and held steady, but like i said there was no physical response of the car actually pulling 20 psi. i pulled over, tightened all my hoses, and started driving again. everything was fine, turbo pulling and all. shortly after, maybe within the next 20 minutes, same problem, but then........... KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK KNCOK
it wasn't loud at first and it was extremely inconsistent. sometimes i could hear it, sometimes i couldnt, and it was only when i had at least partial throttle, not idle. and this is definitely where i made my mistake.
i tried to drive the car to my buddy's shop so he could diagnose the car, but it died 1/2 way there. by died, i mean the knocking got really loud while i was on the beltway (yes, i know now that i shouldve towed it. call me a newb, call me whatever u will, but what's done is done so plz refrain from the flames), and then oil light came on for a split second (yikes) and the car stalled out. i tried startin it again and it had a REALLY hard time turning over, so i shut it off and got it towed to a family friend's house who works at pep boys.
he found a broken barring which he replaced, and put the block back together. he said, though, that apparently when he put the new barring on, it was too tight for the engine because the crankshaft itself was bent. maybe im explaining it wrong because i dont know all about engines, but im just trying to repeat what i was told.
SO this is where i stand. he said itd be pointless to replace the crank and i should get a new engine, either from a totaled evo (preferably from being rear ended or hit from the side rather than the front, of course), buy a brand new engine, or just sell the car as a shell or whatever, maybe piece it out, whatever i dont know.
HELP ME!! what should i do?!? i dont wanna spend thousands, but i dont wanna sell it as is and lose thousands either. what would my best bet be. replace it with a stocker and sell it? im pretty sure i dont wanna keep the car even if i get it back to mint condition (as close as i can). so i wanna find out what my best bet is in this situation.
Sorry for the long post...
Please refrain from giving me "you should've" advice because what's done is done. i kno there's a million and one things i shouldve done, but i didnt. so i m where im at. thanks in advance.
Jonathan
I have decided that I am going to sell the evo
i have been contacted by a shop that's goina do all the work to get it back to stock.. probly run me about 5k or more, and then ima sell my baby ;[ but ill be in the market for another car, not an evo... not sure what yet. anyway, afterwards ima just sell it to Carmax as ive heard that's the best thing to do with a car that's been through what mine has. any private buyer would probably try to low ball me because of the damage the car's gone through. Carmax most probably wont even ask. any suggestions? advice?--------------------------------------------
Long story short:
i bent my crankshaft and was told to get a brand new engine. i dont wanna keep the car even when i do fix it. should i buy a new engine, buy an engine from a totaled evo (probly hard to find, or impossible to find out here), sell the car as is. suggestions?
Long Story:
i was doin hard 2nd gear pulls when it felt like my turbo gave up (meaning the car still ran fine until i got to where i shouldve started spooling, but when my turbo should've started pulling there wasn't any pull). i knew i didnt blow the turbo cause the boost gauge still went up to 20 psi and held steady, but like i said there was no physical response of the car actually pulling 20 psi. i pulled over, tightened all my hoses, and started driving again. everything was fine, turbo pulling and all. shortly after, maybe within the next 20 minutes, same problem, but then........... KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK KNCOK
it wasn't loud at first and it was extremely inconsistent. sometimes i could hear it, sometimes i couldnt, and it was only when i had at least partial throttle, not idle. and this is definitely where i made my mistake.
i tried to drive the car to my buddy's shop so he could diagnose the car, but it died 1/2 way there. by died, i mean the knocking got really loud while i was on the beltway (yes, i know now that i shouldve towed it. call me a newb, call me whatever u will, but what's done is done so plz refrain from the flames), and then oil light came on for a split second (yikes) and the car stalled out. i tried startin it again and it had a REALLY hard time turning over, so i shut it off and got it towed to a family friend's house who works at pep boys.
he found a broken barring which he replaced, and put the block back together. he said, though, that apparently when he put the new barring on, it was too tight for the engine because the crankshaft itself was bent. maybe im explaining it wrong because i dont know all about engines, but im just trying to repeat what i was told.
SO this is where i stand. he said itd be pointless to replace the crank and i should get a new engine, either from a totaled evo (preferably from being rear ended or hit from the side rather than the front, of course), buy a brand new engine, or just sell the car as a shell or whatever, maybe piece it out, whatever i dont know.
HELP ME!! what should i do?!? i dont wanna spend thousands, but i dont wanna sell it as is and lose thousands either. what would my best bet be. replace it with a stocker and sell it? im pretty sure i dont wanna keep the car even if i get it back to mint condition (as close as i can). so i wanna find out what my best bet is in this situation.
Sorry for the long post...
Please refrain from giving me "you should've" advice because what's done is done. i kno there's a million and one things i shouldve done, but i didnt. so i m where im at. thanks in advance.
Jonathan
Oct 12, 2006, 06:28 PM
#57
You have debris throughout all parts that are in contact with your oiling system -- so, basically your entire block, cylinder head, and turbo. The entire motor should have been taken apart as far as it can be taken apart, and every part and each oil passage throughly cleaned with an engine brush and high pressure solvent, then inspected to the extent possible for debris caused damage.
Your front cover, oil pump, oil filter housing, oil cooler, oil cooler lines, and turbo all have oil passages and will look like that inside, too. So will the internal passages in the block and head. You might be able to flush your turbo, and maybe the lines to and from the oil cooler, but the cooler itself should be replaced. Probably the front cover/oil pump and filter housing, too, unless your engine builder is certain that they have been cleaned so well that there's no possibility of recontamination. Many people have rebuilt their motors, forgotten about the oil cooler or similar parts, and recontaminated their motors when they restarted it and the oil pressure flushed debris from the cooler into the new motor. Same thing if your oil passages in the head and block are not throughly cleaned. There's probably crap in your other bearings, in the oil passages to the mains, and in the crank as well. At any rate, the entire head and block should be disassembled and the oil passages in the head and block cleaned as well. Then the parts should be jet cleaned. You cannot be too careful when you're putting the motor back together that you get all the metal particles out of the system, or all the money you spent is down the drain. I'd make sure that the shop that is doing the work gives me a warranty on the motor if they suggest that you cut corners. Sometimes when a shop is standing behind the repair/rebuild, they'll have a more careful perspective on what should be done.
(For an amazing warranty, look at Dave Buschur. In another post, he said that with any of his shortblocks, if the motor goes south and his inspection shows that it was somehow his fault, he'll repairs it fully at no cost. If it's your fault, he repairs it for the cost of the needed parts. That, by itself, shows Buschur's confidence in his shop's work!)
Your lifters are coated with debris on the outside. They probably have smaller debris on the inside as well. There is a cleaning procedure shown in the factory manual for lifters that involves pumping them repeatedly with diesel fuel. You might take a look there to get familiar with the process and decide if it's worth the effort.
You're looking at a complete motor rebuild from the ground up if you're going to do it so that the motor lasts more than a hundred miles or so... If you do it properly, it should add to the value of your car. Do it on the cheap, and you'll regret it unless you're driving it around the corner and trading it in... Even then, it's a crappy thing to do to the next owner...
Best of luck!
Your front cover, oil pump, oil filter housing, oil cooler, oil cooler lines, and turbo all have oil passages and will look like that inside, too. So will the internal passages in the block and head. You might be able to flush your turbo, and maybe the lines to and from the oil cooler, but the cooler itself should be replaced. Probably the front cover/oil pump and filter housing, too, unless your engine builder is certain that they have been cleaned so well that there's no possibility of recontamination. Many people have rebuilt their motors, forgotten about the oil cooler or similar parts, and recontaminated their motors when they restarted it and the oil pressure flushed debris from the cooler into the new motor. Same thing if your oil passages in the head and block are not throughly cleaned. There's probably crap in your other bearings, in the oil passages to the mains, and in the crank as well. At any rate, the entire head and block should be disassembled and the oil passages in the head and block cleaned as well. Then the parts should be jet cleaned. You cannot be too careful when you're putting the motor back together that you get all the metal particles out of the system, or all the money you spent is down the drain. I'd make sure that the shop that is doing the work gives me a warranty on the motor if they suggest that you cut corners. Sometimes when a shop is standing behind the repair/rebuild, they'll have a more careful perspective on what should be done.
(For an amazing warranty, look at Dave Buschur. In another post, he said that with any of his shortblocks, if the motor goes south and his inspection shows that it was somehow his fault, he'll repairs it fully at no cost. If it's your fault, he repairs it for the cost of the needed parts. That, by itself, shows Buschur's confidence in his shop's work!)Your lifters are coated with debris on the outside. They probably have smaller debris on the inside as well. There is a cleaning procedure shown in the factory manual for lifters that involves pumping them repeatedly with diesel fuel. You might take a look there to get familiar with the process and decide if it's worth the effort.
You're looking at a complete motor rebuild from the ground up if you're going to do it so that the motor lasts more than a hundred miles or so... If you do it properly, it should add to the value of your car. Do it on the cheap, and you'll regret it unless you're driving it around the corner and trading it in... Even then, it's a crappy thing to do to the next owner...
Best of luck!
Last edited by CO_VR4; Oct 12, 2006 at 06:37 PM.
Oct 12, 2006, 07:34 PM
#58
just a thought, (that has been offered by others already) you can get a long block for between 3.5 and 5 K. That would be with turbo and all. Only need an oil cooler, although it might come with the engine.
I'd certainly look in that direction. Off hand I'd say your motor was a a garden planter.
Any time you have that much labor, cleaning, just to get back to square one......
I'd certainly look in that direction. Off hand I'd say your motor was a a garden planter.
Any time you have that much labor, cleaning, just to get back to square one......
Oct 12, 2006, 11:04 PM
#59
Wow, this person cautioned this before the bottom end was fixed (Oct 4) below
Then an update (Oct 11)below
And now yesterday:
In addition to reusing the contaminated head and oil dist, was the damaged crank cut and reused deviating from service manual too?
All this makes "running too rich" the ultimate cause less believable for me if oil really was changed frequently and correct oil used, a stuck open PVCC valve would cause that too - even faster.
eLiTEvO, it's painful to witness you endure this, - wish you better luck
Originally Posted by CO_VR4
What do you propose to do about the metal shavings in the rest of the motor oil passages and in the turbo?
Originally Posted by eLiTe eVo
Just a followup... date moved from this past Mon/Tues to late Thursday evening... which probably will just end up being Friday. I'm assuming this is cause they were busy with GT Live this past weekend. anyway, I'll keep you guys updated as to how the car runs after the repair.
Jonathan
Jonathan
Originally Posted by eLiTe eVo
*UPDATE* my lifters are bad too. don't feel like explaining right now, ill post up the pics DTM sent me later. goina run me another $720 in addition to the previous estimate to get all that stuff worked out. ETA is now Monday
Originally Posted by eLiTe eVo
eLiTEvO, it's painful to witness you endure this, - wish you better luck
Last edited by C6C6CH3vo; Oct 12, 2006 at 11:33 PM.
Oct 16, 2006, 02:21 PM
#60
DONE!! well, most probably. they said they were putting the engine back in the car this morning, so i should be able to pick it up tomorrow! as you guys can imagine, i'll update you as soon as i can build up a justifiable response as to how it all worked out. thanks for your input everybody! now it's the waiting game... 