Stroker Kit Vs Rebuilt 2.0
Oct 4, 2006, 05:27 PM
#16
Originally Posted by sonicnofadz
If you choose the 2.3 stroker, I wouldn't expect the block to last many miles. The extra sideloading (caused by the longer stroke of the crank and shorter rods) on the cylinder walls will caused the cylinder bores to be "egg" shapped (oval). This has been a major problem for DSM 4G63 motors, and it is why the fastest 4G63 engines (Shepard and Brent Rau) are 2.0 Liter, NOT 2.3 Liter. However, they just drag race. For road racing the 2.3 liter is more ideal, but the block will NOT survive many miles of this type of abuse. The sideloading causes the rings to wear out faster, (causing premature compression loss, and then pistons and cylinder walls will also wear down faster than normal).
Oct 4, 2006, 06:50 PM
#18
Originally Posted by AllBlak
So if I understand correctly.
If my goal is to race the car down the 1/4 mile then going the high revving 2.0 is a better option.
If my goal is street racing and fooling around on the freeway then the 2.3 stroker is a better option.
If my goal is to race the car down the 1/4 mile then going the high revving 2.0 is a better option.
If my goal is street racing and fooling around on the freeway then the 2.3 stroker is a better option.
No, a highway car will still need the revs. If you are doing 40-145mph runs for example a stroker will have hard time turning that type of rpm without shifting to 4th. IMO on a stock sized wheel. You see the difference in off boost power and spool up once it at full boost there is little to no difference and you lost 1500rpms in redline which is far more than the 300-500rpm you gain in spool up. This is especially true on very large turbos like a 42R you have to have the rpms.
IMO a 35R is the best of both worlds Buschur's car just proved that running a 9.97@142mph as well as AMS's track car running a stroker with 35R. Perfect combo IMO.
It all depends on the goal though
Last edited by Jasil; Oct 4, 2006 at 06:54 PM.
Oct 4, 2006, 07:04 PM
#20
Evolving Member
Comes down to the feeling that one wants when driving his car. THere are people out there who loves the response that the stroker offers and they are people out there who loves how the 2 litre revs to but on a daily affair driving on the street, ( coming out of having 2 different 35R setups before with the 2.0 and 2.3 now) the 2.3 is just exceptional in spool up and also the monstrous torque it offers. Bit of a disadvantage down the drags where ultimately 2.0 is still a better setup to drag due to rev issues. No reliability issues with properly prepared hardware for the 2.3 ( offset wrist pins, nitrided crank and etc..) compared to a 2.0. No doubt you can rev the 2.3 OCCASIONALLY past 8500 rpms but it is not good for the bottom end and will cause bearing failures if not taken care of... Best of both worlds would be the 2.2 litre with the 94 mm crank or a ' SPECIAL ' Mitsu 93 mm crank...
Oct 4, 2006, 07:04 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by Jasil
No, a highway car will still need the revs. If you are doing 40-145mph runs for example a stroker will have hard time turning that type of rpm without shifting to 4th. IMO on a stock sized wheel. You see the difference in off boost power and spool up once it at full boost there is little to no difference and you lost 1500rpms in redline which is far more than the 300-500rpm you gain in spool up. This is especially true on very large turbos like a 42R you have to have the rpms.
IMO a 35R is the best of both worlds Buschur's car just proved that running a 9.97@142mph as well as AMS's track car running a stroker with 35R. Perfect combo IMO.
It all depends on the goal though
IMO a 35R is the best of both worlds Buschur's car just proved that running a 9.97@142mph as well as AMS's track car running a stroker with 35R. Perfect combo IMO.
It all depends on the goal though
+1. I think i'm going to go with a built 2.0 because i want to get the most out of my 35r. The higher rev's will make me in boost longer and that will benifit me when the person im racing is shifting sooner than me.
Oct 4, 2006, 07:24 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by 1.8t
Strokers pick up 2~300rpm spool, not 700rpm. No one knows how long stroker cars can last and how the cyl. walls hold up due to the added loading put on them by the piston. The advantage is you don't have to rev the car and its superior street manners. 7500rpm max is about what everyone who builds a stroker recommends you make your rev limit. This is easier on the syncro's in your tranny as well since you aren't making high rpm shifts. A 2l can obviously rev higher and in the end, is able to support more power due to its superior ability to rev.
Oct 4, 2006, 07:25 PM
#24
Originally Posted by 94AWDcoupe
I ran a 2.4 for 15000 miles on the street. Car was driven very hard all the time. The ring seal was so good at 33psi (565whp) that I never needed a catch can. Just left the single vent hose dangle on top of the tranny. Are you aware the 2.4 specs are nearly identical to the srt4 engine? Do you think they would have made the engine like that if piston side loading/premature wear was a problem? Are you aware that piston side loading goes up as rpm goes up? So if the 2.0 is regularly spun 1000rpm higher than a 2.3/2.4 its not gonna last any longer than a 2.3.
Oct 4, 2006, 07:38 PM
#26
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i say theres a reason mitsu made it a 2.0l vs subys 2.5.....if its good enough to last you a rally race...its good enough to last for life...me i would go with a 2.0 but try to find someone to make you a aluminum block....this will lower your center of gravity and further reduce weight and even out weight distribution.....so the 300 rpm of tq are made up by the higher hp per lb ratio.....
Oct 4, 2006, 07:45 PM
#27
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I'm new to evo's, but all other platforms I have worked on have companies like aebs or darton offering sleeves which I would think would eliminate the durability problem of a stroker. Can you not get an evo block sleeved?
Oct 4, 2006, 07:51 PM
#28
Evolving Member
Its a cast iron block, you don't need to sleeve anything... its just basically the design of the 2.3 with an excessive long stroke with a non ideal rod ratio... block's fine.. if you keep the revs down, nothing will happen to it...
Oct 5, 2006, 02:18 AM
#29
Evolved Member
Originally Posted by EvO6-RS2
What's the max rpms we could push a built (rods, pistons, bearings) 2.0L bottom end???
Fully stock motor except HKS 272 cam.I will take Magnus or SBR 2.1L Destorker since i love drag racing
Last edited by Ang Wen Yan; Oct 5, 2006 at 02:32 AM.