Oil where it shouldn't be (PICS)
#16
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Originally Posted by vroomevo
hmm, i have very similar problem. i see oil-like spots just around junction btwn exhuast manifold and engine head. haven't paid much attn to it.
Originally Posted by vroomevo
btw, what is the blow by?
#17
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Originally Posted by C6C6CH3vo
This would likely be different. Oil residue on ex manif can come from the exhaust manifold studs leaking. I get trace amounts right in the manifold gasket/head seam. Try tightening them
Passing mustangs real fast
Passing mustangs real fast
#18
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Definitely the headstuds. You can try retorqing them, however it probably will not solve the problem. The correct way to install headstuds is to remove the head, deck the head at a machine shop, and re-install the head with a new OEM gasket (or better). Once the headgasket seal has been compromised, it is VERY hard to re-seal it without removing the head and replacing it. This is why I don't recommend headstuds unless you plan on removing the head. Some people get away without having leaks, and some aren't so lucky. To be absolutely certain the headgasket is leaking, I recommend using coolant dye, and engine oil dye along with a UV light to visibly observe the leak. Good luck!
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Originally Posted by tripperfx3
I dont think blow-by would be that bad... Did you check to see how much oil you might have lost? If it is the headstuds take it back to the shop and have them order you new headstuds and re-do it. You cant just re torque the headstuds. They are designed to strech once you install them. You'll have to get new ones.
not true. you dont have to get new ones. you are thinking of the torque to yield bolts.
ARP head studs are designed to be used multiple times once they are torqued to the right specifications. the head studs are designed to push the head onto the block whereas the bolts pull up on the block to the head to make a seal. this creates galling of the threads and provides a unaccurate torque reading.
torque to yield bolts are good to a certain extent and by no means are they "bad".
if they are bad, then youd better tell GM that their 505hp Z06 corvette is crap because that is what they use on their cylinder heads....
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Originally Posted by badhabit90
not true. you dont have to get new ones. you are thinking of the torque to yield bolts.
ARP head studs are designed to be used multiple times once they are torqued to the right specifications. the head studs are designed to push the head onto the block whereas the bolts pull up on the block to the head to make a seal. this creates galling of the threads and provides a unaccurate torque reading.
torque to yield bolts are good to a certain extent and by no means are they "bad".
if they are bad, then youd better tell GM that their 505hp Z06 corvette is crap because that is what they use on their cylinder heads....
ARP head studs are designed to be used multiple times once they are torqued to the right specifications. the head studs are designed to push the head onto the block whereas the bolts pull up on the block to the head to make a seal. this creates galling of the threads and provides a unaccurate torque reading.
torque to yield bolts are good to a certain extent and by no means are they "bad".
if they are bad, then youd better tell GM that their 505hp Z06 corvette is crap because that is what they use on their cylinder heads....
#21
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Originally Posted by sonicnofadz
Definitely the headstuds. You can try retorqing them, however it probably will not solve the problem. The correct way to install headstuds is to remove the head, deck the head at a machine shop, and re-install the head with a new OEM gasket (or better). Once the headgasket seal has been compromised, it is VERY hard to re-seal it without removing the head and replacing it. This is why I don't recommend headstuds unless you plan on removing the head. Some people get away without having leaks, and some aren't so lucky. To be absolutely certain the headgasket is leaking, I recommend using coolant dye, and engine oil dye along with a UV light to visibly observe the leak. Good luck!
true.
you can try to retorque them first. you must loosen the nuts, apply moly lube and retorque them for proper reading.
you dont have to necissarily have to surface the head. just check for straightness. if you surface the head, you are now upping the compression by 1/4 to 1/2 a point. you can comprimise the compression ratio by installing a thicker head gasket, but at what expense??....it may not hold up as good.
#23
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Originally Posted by badhabit90
true.
you can try to retorque them first. you must loosen the nuts, apply moly lube and retorque them for proper reading.
you dont have to necissarily have to surface the head. just check for straightness. if you surface the head, you are now upping the compression by 1/4 to 1/2 a point. you can comprimise the compression ratio by installing a thicker head gasket, but at what expense??....it may not hold up as good.
you can try to retorque them first. you must loosen the nuts, apply moly lube and retorque them for proper reading.
you dont have to necissarily have to surface the head. just check for straightness. if you surface the head, you are now upping the compression by 1/4 to 1/2 a point. you can comprimise the compression ratio by installing a thicker head gasket, but at what expense??....it may not hold up as good.
The compression ratio will not change significantly by getting the head milled. I agree though, if a machine shop (don't try to check it yourself if you are inexperienced) agrees the deck surface is straight enough to be re-used, you should avoid having it re-surfaced.
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Originally Posted by vroomevo
hmm, i have very similar problem. i see oil-like spots just around junction btwn exhuast manifold and engine head. haven't paid much attn to it.
btw, what is the blow by?
btw, what is the blow by?
#25
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Originally Posted by BBYBruno
+1 I have the same oil spots.
Then again, I may just not want to face the truth of having to take the frigging head off. +++++=
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Originally Posted by Exciting News
Hmmm... I've been doing some searching and found that this may not be head studs after all. It seems that oil in this area isn't so terribly rare on the Evo. So, how can I narrow down the issue? Compression check? I really would like to think TurboTrix knows how to properly install head studs. I'm also trying not jump to the worst possible scenario.
Then again, I may just not want to face the truth of having to take the frigging head off. +++++=
Then again, I may just not want to face the truth of having to take the frigging head off. +++++=
#27
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Originally Posted by Exciting News
Hmmm... I've been doing some searching and found that this may not be head studs after all. It seems that oil in this area isn't so terribly rare on the Evo. So, how can I narrow down the issue? Compression check? I really would like to think TurboTrix knows how to properly install head studs. I'm also trying not jump to the worst possible scenario.
Then again, I may just not want to face the truth of having to take the frigging head off. +++++=
Then again, I may just not want to face the truth of having to take the frigging head off. +++++=
Last edited by sonicnofadz; Oct 18, 2006 at 07:45 AM.
#29
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The exhaust manifold is sealed tight with the exhaust ports coming out - not the source of oil. The holes the manifold studs go into are.
The oil can leak internally along the threads making it's way to the manifold. If you (machaunga and razorlab) were able to hold a wrench - you could pull one of your exh studs all the way out and see for yourself -
Which is not the case here, sounds like he's leaking oil from the head. What you wrote shows your leaking "mechnically disabled" from the head
The oil can leak internally along the threads making it's way to the manifold. If you (machaunga and razorlab) were able to hold a wrench - you could pull one of your exh studs all the way out and see for yourself -
Which is not the case here, sounds like he's leaking oil from the head. What you wrote shows your leaking "mechnically disabled" from the head
Last edited by C6C6CH3vo; Oct 23, 2006 at 06:09 PM.
#30
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Originally Posted by C6C6CH3vo
The exhaust manifold is sealed tight with the exhaust ports coming out - not the source of oil. The holes the manifold studs go into are.
The oil can leak internally along the threads making it's way to the manifold. If you (machaunga and razorlab) were able to hold a wrench - you could pull one of your exh studs all the way out and see for yourself -
Which is not the case here, sounds like he's leaking oil from the head. What you wrote shows your leaking "mechnically disabled" from the head
The oil can leak internally along the threads making it's way to the manifold. If you (machaunga and razorlab) were able to hold a wrench - you could pull one of your exh studs all the way out and see for yourself -
Which is not the case here, sounds like he's leaking oil from the head. What you wrote shows your leaking "mechnically disabled" from the head