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Evo IX MR / RS OEM Blow Off Valve: is it ok?

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Old Oct 27, 2006, 09:55 AM
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Evo IX MR / RS OEM Blow Off Valve: is it ok?

I own an american IX MR with some reworking... It gives 360 hp with 1.6 bar peak pressure and 1.4 constant.
I still have the OEM aluminium BOV. I know the old plastic Evo VIII BOV was worth very little, and leaked.
Does the new alu one correct this problem?
Should I get an aftermarket one, and which one (recirc, anyway)?
Old Oct 27, 2006, 09:59 AM
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your aluminium one is fine. i ran 1.8 bar on my.
Old Oct 27, 2006, 10:00 AM
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yea the aluminum one is a lot better than the plastic one in the VIII
Old Oct 27, 2006, 10:07 AM
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It's one of the best BOVs possible for the Evo. We used to have to buy that one as an upgrade, but now the IXs get it stock...
Old Oct 27, 2006, 10:11 AM
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yes, the stock aluminum valve is a beautiful thing, keep it
Old Oct 27, 2006, 10:12 AM
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Thaks a lot guys.
Old Oct 27, 2006, 10:10 PM
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just got one from the dealership for one of my customers, cool piece just like the 1g one, but newer. haha. i'm sure the valve seat, spring, and diaphragm are all reworked and of different specs now.


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Old Oct 28, 2006, 03:53 AM
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This JDM DV has a loyal following, but in my case at least, it hasn't performed up to expectations. Maybe my unit just isn't a representative example...I don't know. Anyway, I wish I'd purchased a different recirculating diverter instead.

This thing(JDM DV), at least in my experience, which apparently varies from that of the others, starts to bleed-off at about 10-11 psi. It's nothing major, but it is evident that the piston is lifting off its seat a bit early. This just slows turbo spool-up down a bit much for my taste.

Now, this is with a ported housing, titanium wheeled JDM RS turbo, cams advanced to +2/0, WGA preloaded really tight, anti-lag, and initial ignition timing retarded a bit for quickest spoolup. Other's results may vary, but I found the thing to be a bit wimpy. Now, it may be that it tends to hold decently(albeit partially open) at higher boost levels up to around 25#, but I wouldn't know since I've never boosted my car over 23# on its pump gas diet.

Anyway, in my case at least, and I am a quick-spool fanatic, I found that it does slow turbo spool down more than acceptable. I haven't made up my mind, but next time I will try something different(but, still recirculating), like either the Forge RS DV, a crushed 1G, the Works/GFB, or the Dejontool's modded DV.... once I save up enough lunch money.

Last edited by sparky; Oct 28, 2006 at 06:42 AM. Reason: orthographic factors
Old Oct 28, 2006, 05:43 PM
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has anyone tryed to cut a section off of the little vacume/boost port for the lower side of diaphragm, welding the 'boost' side shut, and just venting the bottom side of the diaphragm to atmosphere? that would also keep the valve closed more often.




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Old Oct 28, 2006, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by sparky
This JDM DV has a loyal following, but in my case at least, it hasn't performed up to expectations. Maybe my unit just isn't a representative example...I don't know. Anyway, I wish I'd purchased a different recirculating diverter instead.

This thing(JDM DV), at least in my experience, which apparently varies from that of the others, starts to bleed-off at about 10-11 psi. It's nothing major, but it is evident that the piston is lifting off its seat a bit early. This just slows turbo spool-up down a bit much for my taste.

Now, this is with a ported housing, titanium wheeled JDM RS turbo, cams advanced to +2/0, WGA preloaded really tight, anti-lag, and initial ignition timing retarded a bit for quickest spoolup. Other's results may vary, but I found the thing to be a bit wimpy. Now, it may be that it tends to hold decently(albeit partially open) at higher boost levels up to around 25#, but I wouldn't know since I've never boosted my car over 23# on its pump gas diet.

Anyway, in my case at least, and I am a quick-spool fanatic, I found that it does slow turbo spool down more than acceptable. I haven't made up my mind, but next time I will try something different(but, still recirculating), like either the Forge RS DV, a crushed 1G, the Works/GFB, or the Dejontool's modded DV.... once I save up enough lunch money.
I would crush it like people do to 1G valves, same effect and wont cost u any money.
Old Oct 28, 2006, 06:37 PM
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Sparky, yours must just be faulty, because that is not normal for any JDM MR DV. I've pressure tested many, and they don't open until ~25psi.
Old Oct 28, 2006, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by whitey4d
I would crush it like people do to 1G valves, same effect and wont cost u any money.
Hmmm....I did think of this but hadn't found anything on it in the forums with respect to the JDM MR DV. Has anyone tried it yet. I'm willing to try anything, well, just about anything.
Old Oct 28, 2006, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Warrtalon
Sparky, yours must just be faulty, because that is not normal for any JDM MR DV. I've pressure tested many, and they don't open until ~25psi.
Probably is defective. It may have had something to do with the fact that I had the MBC sourced from the intake/BOV line? Actually, I haven't really noticed it now that the MBC is referenced from the compressor discharge nipple. Thanks.

I am gonna have to go back and retest it again. My pressure testing is quite scientific. Since if you install the DV valve backwards....it doesn't open at all, I just compared spoolup with backwards installed vs. correctly installed. This is all done, of course, with certified S.O.P. instrumentation.

Sorry for the OT and the thread jack..
Old Oct 29, 2006, 04:06 AM
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Many people have crushed the JDM MR DV, but it's not necessary. All the ones I've tested to 25psi were uncrushed, except for one. I didn't try to test it above 25psi.

The whole bov line tapping is a possibility, and people have made that reference in the past, but I'm not 100% sure.
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