Boost restrictor pill REMOVAL
Nov 23, 2006, 09:19 AM
#18
i had quite a bit of taper on my IX. i was in the same boat....."couldn't get out of the 13.20 et range". then i bought the accuator from FP and it helped keep my boost stable longer. although i'm no longer running the factory boost control solenoid(sp) i love the way the accuator performs just hooked up straight to the turbo outlet pipe. i'm hitting 1.4bar with very little taper in third and fourth gear. pair the accuator with a good boost controller and get rid of the factory solenoid. 
Nov 23, 2006, 09:50 AM
#19
I have absolutely no taper....in fact my boost just keeps climbing with the rpms....you must have a defective IX and should seel immediately.....Good luck...
Next time when folks try to explain the basics to you (a noob), trying being a bit nicer and folks will truly help you....As for you and your 'friend' that cannot figure out how to use ECUFLASH, best of luck with your 'project'.
Next time when folks try to explain the basics to you (a noob), trying being a bit nicer and folks will truly help you....As for you and your 'friend' that cannot figure out how to use ECUFLASH, best of luck with your 'project'.
Nov 24, 2006, 08:52 AM
#20
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OK, and the Verdic is:
It WORKS!! To a point though, if I have my Bleed Off opened ~3/8ths way (#7 on the pointer) It Spikes to 22 at Launch and winds up at 19PSI at 7000rpm shift points...I VERIFIED this by making 5 Passes with my Son in the back seat Religously watching the gauge during the passes...Now if I open it too much it spikes to ~24psi and TAPERS back to 17psi at the shifts, so it's NOT Linear....
Thanks for all there replies, i DO appreciate it
It WORKS!! To a point though, if I have my Bleed Off opened ~3/8ths way (#7 on the pointer) It Spikes to 22 at Launch and winds up at 19PSI at 7000rpm shift points...I VERIFIED this by making 5 Passes with my Son in the back seat Religously watching the gauge during the passes...Now if I open it too much it spikes to ~24psi and TAPERS back to 17psi at the shifts, so it's NOT Linear....
Thanks for all there replies, i DO appreciate it
Nov 24, 2006, 08:58 AM
#21
Um, if you're going through all this ridiculousness and RELYING NO YOUR BOOST GAUGE TO DETERMINE THE RESULTS, then you are extremely foolish. The boost gauge hardly means anything. You need to use a MAP sensor to verify the true boost. This whole thread was ridiculous when you could have used EcuFlash or an $85 MBC - unbelievable.
Nov 24, 2006, 09:13 AM
#22
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Warrtaon, first off I'm using a VERY reliable AutoMeter Boost guage that I Tested for accuacy at work (US Air valve Company) where we manufacture Aiplane gauges..
And Second, we'll know FOR SURE Tommorrow when I head to Cecil County for some testing...but I've only been into Turbo Cars for 20 years (Turbo Buicks) so what the hell do I know!!!
And Second, we'll know FOR SURE Tommorrow when I head to Cecil County for some testing...but I've only been into Turbo Cars for 20 years (Turbo Buicks) so what the hell do I know!!!
Nov 24, 2006, 09:30 AM
#23
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Personally I would just run a Hallman or Forge MBC with new boost lines running from it to your WGA and boost source. It is cheap and easy and you wont have to worry about the pills. It is also a fact that the stock ECU tapers the boost at higher RPM. The car is desinged to run that way. How does it taper it? Via the boost solenoid. Get that thing out of the equation. Cap it off and run a MBC and you will hold any boost you want. I could hold 28psi on my stock WGA if you adjust the preload way too tight (did this by accident when installing my 10.5 housing). So I really dont think you need to upgrade that piece for 23psi or whatever you want to run. So IMO the boost solenoid is causing the taper if you are 100% sure you dont have a boost leak. I personally think you do.
Nov 24, 2006, 03:54 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by dan628
"reliable" and "autometer" don't belong it the same sentence!
Not trying to start a flame war (I don't even have an Autometer gauge) but I often wonder when people make statements like that if they any way to validate it.
Nov 24, 2006, 04:30 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by Bonestock!
Why do you say that? Do you have some kind of proof to back up your statement or are you reading and regurgitating?
Not trying to start a flame war (I don't even have an Autometer gauge) but I often wonder when people make statements like that if they any way to validate it.
Not trying to start a flame war (I don't even have an Autometer gauge) but I often wonder when people make statements like that if they any way to validate it.
Coming off the assembly line the cars don't all make the same boost. So the pills are introduced as a final adjustment.
If the ECU, by way of the solenoid, is tapering boost then you should give some thought to why this is happening. Maybe the ECU is seeing knock and only doing what it should.
Nov 24, 2006, 04:43 PM
#27
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you are not gonna get rid of that taper just by removing the pill.Just like DAN628 said get a MBC for 85.00 and it will reduce your taper for sure.Mine hits 21 on 3rd pull and tapers down to 20 at 7000 rpm,so if you dont want to spend 300 on a tune the MBC would be your best bet.good luck
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