Never dynoed it on 91 octane. On 93 octane and 20 psi it made 385 360 on a dyno jet..

This is why its horrible, it can be achieved on the stock turbo.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=117658

Scorke

 

ya those are nice numbers. Do you know anything else about the avo kit

 

Because thats what I pretty much made without cam gears, stocker intercooler.... and OH yeaaaa STOCK turbo

 

In all fairness, the posted dyno numbers should not be taken as the turbo's potential on 91 octane. It was on a truly horrible tune. I looked at the logs from this tune, and the AFRs were all over the place (mostly very rich), timing was sloppy and much too high in parts, and knock counts up top were in the 30's. I was cringing more and more the farther down the log I read.

 

336awp was a typo I ment 366. Good job silk 336awp is very common with the mods you have.

 

I'd be vary wary of AVO if its from down here at Kangaroo Central . They apperar to sell lots of those hateful GT30/TO4S BB boat anchor turbos . Have a real close look at the front of the compressor wheel , if you can count 7 blades (7 upper and lower ) don't buy it . REAL Garrett ALL GT wheeled turbos in the GT30BB family use 6/12 bladed compressor wheels . The REAL "GT30R" uses cartridge (CHRA) number 700177-5007 and has a .60AR port shrouded compressor cover . The Dodgy version uses the larger .70AR TO4S compressor housing . We get no end of grief here in Australia because "dealers" flog off "GT30R" turbos all the time with the dinosaur TO4S comp wheel . Confusion exists because the "S" wheel is the same approximate major OD as the 76mm GT37 compressor ie ~76.1mm vs ~76.2mm and they are both available in 48/52/56 trim .

Rule 1) If you are offered a "GT30R" with the 7/14 blade comp and the big .70AR TO4S housing give them the bird .

We have had cases down here where people wanted to praise the GT3540R to heaven because it was no less laggy than the "GT30R" it replaced . Pitty the "GT30R" was really the laggy dog GT30/TO4S POS .

Don't get robbed , cheers A .

 

I believe the AVO turbos were marketed here in the US and they had 3 variations available. The type D is a GT3076 R turbo (yes ball bearing). It has the highest horsepower potential of the three offered because of its large AR ration in the turbine, it is a 1 AR. What does this mean? It means that it will be a bit laggy, but it should hold higher boost better. And it is a Garett turbo since its imprinted on the compressor housing.

Also, this turbo, IMO, is the stealthiest turbo there when we are talking about aftermarket. The manifold is thick cast iron is credited for this. If you look at the FQ turbo setup, it uses a very similar, if not exact manifold.

If you can get this for a good price, I would pick it up.

 

Im getting a really good price and it does say .60AR Garrett however I thought I was laggy but it was on 2.0l and untuned.

 

Personally, I think that turbo with a 2.3 L would be a perfect match.

 

You seem to know a lot more about this kit than most. The D-Series a good street turbo? When I can I expect full boost? Expected number on 2.3l 91oct 21-23psi. I dont plan on running ras gas but maybe a meth kit in the future.

 

The D series is a GT3040 or sometimes called a 3065 or 3082.

 

Thats what a good 3076 setup and a 2.3 can pull on race gas, 385 360 what it puts out on pump, I'd have to say theres a lot left in that guys current setup.

Scorke

 

From what avo said the hotside on the D-Series is a .82.

 

Thats what hotside i have...

Scorke

 

Yeah, the 1.0 A/R exhaust housing will result in pretty significant lag on a 2.0L.

Another interesting fact is that AVO uses a T2 exhaust housing flange instead of the standard T3 which is used in nearly every other 3076 package. If I still had mine, I would try porting the manifold outlet and the exhaust housing significantly..it may have provided measurable gains.

Yes, it's a very stealthy kit -- utilizes the stock upper heat shield. I always loved the manifold design and would choose cast over tubular any day.