GSC Releases our New S1 Cams for the Evo 9 Dyno inside!
Dec 18, 2006, 08:18 PM
#91
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Moose it’s a simple bolt in deal. The valve springs and retainers aren’t needed on the S1 cams.
Now if you’re planning on doing them any ways its great! Most don’t want to do springs. We used the Supertech single springs as the designed spring around the S2 design. why? Because it is the best spring with the easiest install and costs around $285 for a set. They use the factory seat and don't require a new valve seal and are simple to install. This way a set of S2 cams, Springs, and Ti ret will run you around $880. Or if you're having your head ported go ahead and run the duals if you feel.
Changing valve springs on the Evo isn’t as bad as most fear. We have found that it takes about 2 hours to do the springs and retainers when using this method.
We use some nylon rope and thread it into the cylinder threw the spark plug hole. Make sure that the cylinder your working on the piston is all the way up. Some like to put compressed air in the cylinder when changing the springs. This has been found to cause more problems. Why because the cylinder is all the way down leaving plenty of room in the combustion chamber for the valve to drop ie head has to come off.
With the rope in the cylinder...make sure you leave enough rope so you can pull it out when you move to the next cylinder.
Using the mitsu tool or a SNAPON or any other spring tool (im looking for a cheap tool that works) compress the spring with the tool and pull the clip on the top of valve. The valve should not be pushed down with the retainer. Once the clip has been removed release the spring’s tension and pull the retainer and spring. Replace with the supertech Single spring and new ti retainer. Then compress the spring and put the clip back in place and move to the next valve. and so on 16 times..
Now if you’re planning on doing them any ways its great! Most don’t want to do springs. We used the Supertech single springs as the designed spring around the S2 design. why? Because it is the best spring with the easiest install and costs around $285 for a set. They use the factory seat and don't require a new valve seal and are simple to install. This way a set of S2 cams, Springs, and Ti ret will run you around $880. Or if you're having your head ported go ahead and run the duals if you feel.
Changing valve springs on the Evo isn’t as bad as most fear. We have found that it takes about 2 hours to do the springs and retainers when using this method.
We use some nylon rope and thread it into the cylinder threw the spark plug hole. Make sure that the cylinder your working on the piston is all the way up. Some like to put compressed air in the cylinder when changing the springs. This has been found to cause more problems. Why because the cylinder is all the way down leaving plenty of room in the combustion chamber for the valve to drop ie head has to come off.
With the rope in the cylinder...make sure you leave enough rope so you can pull it out when you move to the next cylinder.
Using the mitsu tool or a SNAPON or any other spring tool (im looking for a cheap tool that works) compress the spring with the tool and pull the clip on the top of valve. The valve should not be pushed down with the retainer. Once the clip has been removed release the spring’s tension and pull the retainer and spring. Replace with the supertech Single spring and new ti retainer. Then compress the spring and put the clip back in place and move to the next valve. and so on 16 times..
Dec 21, 2006, 06:19 AM
#93
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Using the mitsu tool or a SNAPON or any other spring tool (im looking for a cheap tool that works) compress the spring with the tool and pull the clip on the top of valve. The valve should not be pushed down with the retainer. Once the clip has been removed release the spring’s tension and pull the retainer and spring. Replace with the supertech Single spring and new ti retainer. Then compress the spring and put the clip back in place and move to the next valve. and so on 16 times..
Remind me next time I am over there I can show you literally how $2.00 worth of tools can make putting each retainer in a 2 second ordeal. It's by far the best method I have ever found, well over specialized tools.
I will try to remember next time I am over there.
Dec 21, 2006, 07:44 AM
#94
330whp on a Dynojet for a IX on 93 octane with a TBE and tune is rockin. I dunno if that's standard with the mods, octane and dyno I listed, but a lot have gotten it. Change any of those variables (especially the dyno) and things change quickly.
That's correct!
Dec 24, 2006, 06:48 PM
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Do you know what date are these gonna be released? Or when your suppliers are gonna get them? I buy from TTP and I really wanted them from Christmas but i can wait a little.
Dec 26, 2006, 06:08 PM
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Judgeing from your post count of 1; I'd agree! lol.
330whp on a Dynojet for a IX on 93 octane with a TBE and tune is rockin. I dunno if that's standard with the mods, octane and dyno I listed, but a lot have gotten it. Change any of those variables (especially the dyno) and things change quickly.
330whp on a Dynojet for a IX on 93 octane with a TBE and tune is rockin. I dunno if that's standard with the mods, octane and dyno I listed, but a lot have gotten it. Change any of those variables (especially the dyno) and things change quickly.
Dude I just got my turbo in! let me get a hold of these cams please!
