EVO Green/20g-LT airflow numbers
#106
If you want to run this turbo at 29psi, you're right...you should get the upgraded actuator.
However, having run both the upgraded and stock actuator on my car, I find that the stock actuator provides a much smoother boost curve without the "hump" that's logged (by Kevin as well) while using the HP actuator running at ~22psi.
For the regular guy on the street who's not running race gas or meth, and especially those stuck on 91 octane, the stock actuator may be the right choice in order to maintain a smooth (and easily tunable) boost curve that won't go too high in 4th gear.
However, having run both the upgraded and stock actuator on my car, I find that the stock actuator provides a much smoother boost curve without the "hump" that's logged (by Kevin as well) while using the HP actuator running at ~22psi.
For the regular guy on the street who's not running race gas or meth, and especially those stuck on 91 octane, the stock actuator may be the right choice in order to maintain a smooth (and easily tunable) boost curve that won't go too high in 4th gear.
#108
I had a 20gLT installed at 1320 Performance in NJ then tuned Sean Ivey.
I have your basic Buschur stage 4 plus some other peripherals but no internal work done.
I went in with a car with felt moderately quick pushing around 365whp and 340lb/ft on Pruven's dyno (27psi/93 octane)
I left with a car that felt fast and responsive pushing around 414whp and 393lb/ft on Pruven's dyno. The car was consertively tuned for road course with a map that showed almost no knock, with the count only hitting '2' one time with a few '1' showing and mostly '0' showing (29psi/93 octane).
As a road course driver, I was thoroughly impressed with spool and ability to control the boost with my right foot.
I never thought that as the Evo would spool, it would chirp the tires but much to my surprise, it did around 3900 rpm.
The new tune held power until about 6800 then dropped fast at 7200 - I have 264/264 cams btw.
All in all, highly recommend for street application, road course and 1/4mi depending on driving style.
I have your basic Buschur stage 4 plus some other peripherals but no internal work done.
I went in with a car with felt moderately quick pushing around 365whp and 340lb/ft on Pruven's dyno (27psi/93 octane)
I left with a car that felt fast and responsive pushing around 414whp and 393lb/ft on Pruven's dyno. The car was consertively tuned for road course with a map that showed almost no knock, with the count only hitting '2' one time with a few '1' showing and mostly '0' showing (29psi/93 octane).
As a road course driver, I was thoroughly impressed with spool and ability to control the boost with my right foot.
I never thought that as the Evo would spool, it would chirp the tires but much to my surprise, it did around 3900 rpm.
The new tune held power until about 6800 then dropped fast at 7200 - I have 264/264 cams btw.
All in all, highly recommend for street application, road course and 1/4mi depending on driving style.
Is it just me or those original dyno numbers seem quite weak. 27psi and 340tq alone seems VERY low. Most people Al tunes at Pruven make that torque or more with 22psi. The usual hp/tq on pump with 22psi is around 350/350 with bolt ons, cams, etc. Im not going ot compare my numbers since I made a lot of power but it def seems very low for that boost with alcohol/meth. I also even think the new numbers seem very low since guys at BUSCHURS mustang dyno put down comparable numbers and that thing reads MUCH lower.
#109
From page 6. Very good information/review 4cdndctn. Thanks.
To TTP's comments. I find you are completely incorrect, as usual. I just finished tuning Bobby's car that made 413 whp on our dyno. The car has a stock EVO9 actuator on it that the turbos come shipped with. The car had a peak boost of 30 psi and falling to just over 26 psi. I'd recommend a boost leak check on the car you had it on, no wonder you weren't impressed with it.
To TTP's comments. I find you are completely incorrect, as usual. I just finished tuning Bobby's car that made 413 whp on our dyno. The car has a stock EVO9 actuator on it that the turbos come shipped with. The car had a peak boost of 30 psi and falling to just over 26 psi. I'd recommend a boost leak check on the car you had it on, no wonder you weren't impressed with it.
Last edited by David Buschur; Dec 14, 2006 at 09:12 AM.
#110
From stuff on page 7...
The injectors we recommend if you are not running alky injection are the 680 cc, they will work fine with the stock ECU. IF you are running a stand alone like the AEM EMS I'd probably recommend just stepping up to the 1,000 cc injectors, the cost is only a few dollars more than the 680's and then in the future you wouldn't have to change them again up to 650+ whp. The 1,000's run great/drive great with the stand alone.
IF you are running an alky injection kit you can use the stock injectors with the factory ECU.
The "hump" that is being discussed is a great on the dyno and driving around. That hump is the big "hit" the turbo makes and a spike in boost pressure. Makes the car a torque monster down low in the RPM range. I agree that it can make for some high boost pressures hitting the throttle at low RPM in upper gears like 4th and 5th. It is fun as hell to drive and makes for very impressive torque numbers on the dyno. I've see as much as 532 ft lbs of torque on our dyno from the old
20g-9-5 with a stroker engine and using the HD actuator. This torque was at 4,000 rpm, so when it hit it was unfreaking real.
The injectors we recommend if you are not running alky injection are the 680 cc, they will work fine with the stock ECU. IF you are running a stand alone like the AEM EMS I'd probably recommend just stepping up to the 1,000 cc injectors, the cost is only a few dollars more than the 680's and then in the future you wouldn't have to change them again up to 650+ whp. The 1,000's run great/drive great with the stand alone.
IF you are running an alky injection kit you can use the stock injectors with the factory ECU.
The "hump" that is being discussed is a great on the dyno and driving around. That hump is the big "hit" the turbo makes and a spike in boost pressure. Makes the car a torque monster down low in the RPM range. I agree that it can make for some high boost pressures hitting the throttle at low RPM in upper gears like 4th and 5th. It is fun as hell to drive and makes for very impressive torque numbers on the dyno. I've see as much as 532 ft lbs of torque on our dyno from the old
20g-9-5 with a stroker engine and using the HD actuator. This torque was at 4,000 rpm, so when it hit it was unfreaking real.
#111
Ask a Pro-street, bigblock Nova if my son's 20LT with Buschur stages 1-4 isn't real world. With many on lookers, the Nova got dusted. Ask the 413 whp trans-am if my son's RS isn't real world. If a Buschur built car isn't real world, let me keep on dreaming because I'm loving my dreams. As soon as David's through with my 2nd RS, I'll be dishing out a few nightmares, if you know what I mean.
#112
Ask a Pro-street, bigblock Nova if my son's 20LT with Buschur stages 1-4 isn't real world. With many on lookers, the Nova got dusted. Ask the 413 whp trans-am if my son's RS isn't real world. If a Buschur built car isn't real world, let me keep on dreaming because I'm loving my dreams. As soon as David's through with my 2nd RS, I'll be dishing out a few nightmares, if you know what I mean.
The subject is the level of boost spike and hold at redline with the 20g9LT, not about your dreams, nightmares, selling parts, if an MR is still and MR if it has a 5 or 6 speed, and who uses what fuel to run what times.
Let's not lose focus.
#113
Catching the tail end, but is this equipped with an aftermarket actuator?
The unit we tuned and tested peaked 29.0psi, tapering to 19psi at 7500 on the factory supplied actuator by BR and Forge UNOS MBC cranked full tilt.
In our testing we cannot stress enough NOT to use this unit with a factory WGA as was provided
The unit we tuned and tested peaked 29.0psi, tapering to 19psi at 7500 on the factory supplied actuator by BR and Forge UNOS MBC cranked full tilt.
In our testing we cannot stress enough NOT to use this unit with a factory WGA as was provided
#114
I would truly like to think we do not find it necessary to "stretch the truth" to sell parts. Myself and everyone that works here knows we sell what is needed and nothing more to a customer. Actually, 9sec9 would be one that could vouch for this as he is in this thread alreadyf. First time he contacted me he said he wanted to spend XX amount of dollars for his build. I told him it wasn't what I thought he needed to do and he spent a little more than HALF of what was to be his build budget.
If a part works we use it, if it doesn't we won't sell it. If a part works better than one we have we change our design. I think we are the most realistic parts producing company there is, I am sure I am biased.
The 20GLT/Green turbo, was 3 years of development by FP. When it was done and tested there wasn't just 1 model of the turbo, there were numerous models. They were all tested here, back pressure, flow rates, boost capabilities, CFM, outlet air temps etc. Then what is being sold as the 20GLT, EVO Green turbo was released as it was the best that could be built.
If a part works we use it, if it doesn't we won't sell it. If a part works better than one we have we change our design. I think we are the most realistic parts producing company there is, I am sure I am biased.
The 20GLT/Green turbo, was 3 years of development by FP. When it was done and tested there wasn't just 1 model of the turbo, there were numerous models. They were all tested here, back pressure, flow rates, boost capabilities, CFM, outlet air temps etc. Then what is being sold as the 20GLT, EVO Green turbo was released as it was the best that could be built.
#115
David, My son concurs with your evaluation. The 20LT(EvoGreen) with stock actuator, preloaded, works! He's pulling 30+ psi and holding it. I would tell exactly how much, but that's TOP SECRET.
#116
One more thing, David is right about my '$ budget' that I gave him on my first RS. I walked away with everything I wanted, at barely over half the budgeted price. I'm sure that the HP actuator has it's applications. On the other hand, it also seems that most of the posts of interested parties evolved around pump gas, lower boost and no meth. If my evaluation of the 'early' interested parties is correct, then it would follow that the stock actuator would be the one for that 'crowd'. I also will make an assumption that not all buyers of the 20LT will be pump gas, low psi, no-meth buyers. If that assumption is correct, maybe the HP would be better suited for them. That I don't know, but I do know that a flat statement of 'don't use the stock actuator on this turbo' may not ring entirely true.
#117
For me and many other middle of the road folks ..... I think we are looking for a turbo that will provide a 40WHP bump on pump gas with stock like spool and not cost an arm and a leg.
On those days we want to run the MF'r like a mini flame thrower we can toss in race fuel, alchy, or meth and get even more out of it. All dyno shart talking and boost levels aside..... Airflow numbers are looking good to me...... 50lbs with stock like spool is more than a 9 turbo will ever do.
On those days we want to run the MF'r like a mini flame thrower we can toss in race fuel, alchy, or meth and get even more out of it. All dyno shart talking and boost levels aside..... Airflow numbers are looking good to me...... 50lbs with stock like spool is more than a 9 turbo will ever do.
Last edited by Jeff_Jeske; Dec 14, 2006 at 12:50 PM.
#118
Yup, this turbo is compairable to a 50trim with its flow rate is almost the same with 48.9lb/min. This turbo in my book with race gas can get close to 500whp just like the 50 trim turbo. I have my 20G-LT on order with other parts, I'm waiting for shipment sometime next week =).