Rebuilding the 2.3L more then a 2.0L? Bearings?
#1
Rebuilding the 2.3L more then a 2.0L? Bearings?
I was advised by another AWD friend (who drives a 10 second Subaru) that when you get a stroker motor, depending on how hard you are on it, you should probably change the bearings YEARLY, as it is cheaper (and wiser) to replace them. He mentioned the piston speed's as one of the reasons for doing that.
Heat robs longevity, and when I put my hand over the exhaust with the stroker, it is COOL to the touch, and with the 2.0L, warm. It seems backwards to me. Just though I would share what I was told. If this has been bought up before, I apologize, and would accept a demotion to "newbie" for bringing this up again.
So, is this the case?
Here is the photos of his car in action!
http://www.wingedwarrior.net/forum2/...pic.php?t=1676
Yeah, the Honda will be throwing down as well at WWIII.
Heat robs longevity, and when I put my hand over the exhaust with the stroker, it is COOL to the touch, and with the 2.0L, warm. It seems backwards to me. Just though I would share what I was told. If this has been bought up before, I apologize, and would accept a demotion to "newbie" for bringing this up again.
So, is this the case?
Here is the photos of his car in action!
http://www.wingedwarrior.net/forum2/...pic.php?t=1676
Yeah, the Honda will be throwing down as well at WWIII.
Last edited by smokedmustang; Dec 19, 2006 at 03:55 PM.
#2
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There are theorys that strokers wont last aslong due to the added stress from the bad rod stroke ratio. Most stroked 4g63s just use a 7 seven bolt crank out of a factory 2.4 Galant. The added tenth of a liter is from the added 2.3 to the 2.4 is the bore size. To do this u have to have new pistons made with a different wrist pin locations for clearence. But thats about it. Its no worse then having a stock 2.4 engine aslong as all the machine work is in spec. Im sure ur fine with ur AMS built block. Id also ask them ther thought about it. There should be no need for a rebuild because the bearings every year.
#4
There are theorys that strokers wont last aslong due to the added stress from the bad rod stroke ratio. Most stroked 4g63s just use a 7 seven bolt crank out of a factory 2.4 Galant. The added tenth of a liter is from the added 2.3 to the 2.4 is the bore size. To do this u have to have new pistons made with a different wrist pin locations for clearence. But thats about it. Its no worse then having a stock 2.4 engine aslong as all the machine work is in spec. Im sure ur fine with ur AMS built block. Id also ask them ther thought about it. There should be no need for a rebuild because the bearings every year.
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We usually run full synthetic oil. Although I don't think it really matters. I would be willing to bet ams used clevites in your engine which will be fine. That heavier motor oil is just a good cheap way to keep from spinning rod bearings.
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#8
As far as changing bearings yearly...BULLSH!T! Unless you are doing ALL of the work completely by yourself, it won't be any cheaper. After you pay labor for removing and reinstalling the engine a few times, plus having a machine shop remove and reinstall the bearings and check clearances, paying for new gaskets each time, and everything else involved, it is no cheaper than blowing the damn thing up after 2-3 years and getting it done then. Anyway, I'm sure if built and maintained properly, a stroker will last much longer than that, assuming this is not a track only car.
I had a 2.3 in my 2G, but I don't remember hearing anything about undue bearing stress due to the longer stroke. I do remember reading about more potential side load of the pistons to the cylinder walls however. A stroker also makes for higher piston speeds. These two scenarios could POTENTIALLY make honing and re-ringing necessary more often than a standard 4G63, MAYBE, but you should still get a very long, happy life out of your stroker if properly built and maintained. Plus, on strokers, I believe they use a longer rod to lessen piston to rod angle, which helps to reduce the side load of the piston. The longer rod is fitted by being mounted higher inside the piston. This is why to make a stroker you can't just change out the crankshaft and be done.
I had a 2.3 in my 2G, but I don't remember hearing anything about undue bearing stress due to the longer stroke. I do remember reading about more potential side load of the pistons to the cylinder walls however. A stroker also makes for higher piston speeds. These two scenarios could POTENTIALLY make honing and re-ringing necessary more often than a standard 4G63, MAYBE, but you should still get a very long, happy life out of your stroker if properly built and maintained. Plus, on strokers, I believe they use a longer rod to lessen piston to rod angle, which helps to reduce the side load of the piston. The longer rod is fitted by being mounted higher inside the piston. This is why to make a stroker you can't just change out the crankshaft and be done.
#9
As far as changing bearings yearly...BULLSH!T! Unless you are doing ALL of the work completely by yourself, it won't be any cheaper. After you pay labor for removing and reinstalling the engine a few times, plus having a machine shop remove and reinstall the bearings and check clearances, paying for new gaskets each time, and everything else involved, it is no cheaper than blowing the damn thing up after 2-3 years and getting it done then. Anyway, I'm sure if built and maintained properly, a stroker will last much longer than that, assuming this is not a track only car.
I had a 2.3 in my 2G, but I don't remember hearing anything about undue bearing stress due to the longer stroke. I do remember reading about more potential side load of the pistons to the cylinder walls however. A stroker also makes for higher piston speeds. These two scenarios could POTENTIALLY make honing and re-ringing necessary more often than a standard 4G63, MAYBE, but you should still get a very long, happy life out of your stroker if properly built and maintained. Plus, on strokers, I believe they use a longer rod to lessen piston to rod angle, which helps to reduce the side load of the piston. The longer rod is fitted by being mounted higher inside the piston. This is why to make a stroker you can't just change out the crankshaft and be done.
I had a 2.3 in my 2G, but I don't remember hearing anything about undue bearing stress due to the longer stroke. I do remember reading about more potential side load of the pistons to the cylinder walls however. A stroker also makes for higher piston speeds. These two scenarios could POTENTIALLY make honing and re-ringing necessary more often than a standard 4G63, MAYBE, but you should still get a very long, happy life out of your stroker if properly built and maintained. Plus, on strokers, I believe they use a longer rod to lessen piston to rod angle, which helps to reduce the side load of the piston. The longer rod is fitted by being mounted higher inside the piston. This is why to make a stroker you can't just change out the crankshaft and be done.
Awesome response, thank you!
#10
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Plus, on strokers, I believe they use a longer rod to lessen piston to rod angle, which helps to reduce the side load of the piston. The longer rod is fitted by being mounted higher inside the piston. This is why to make a stroker you can't just change out the crankshaft and be done.
#11
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Long-rod strokers are available from specialty shops like Magnus Motorsports. However, the usual stroker is NOT a long rod configuration. The fact that the rod is stock length is the drawback on using a stroker. The normal stroker uses the 100mm crank and the stock length rods (whether forged aftermarket or not), and the piston configuration is changed to account for the 6mm longer stroke, so that the piston is not shoved 6mm above the block A long rod stroker gets the rod:stroke ratio back closer to where a 2.0L is, but the pistons are even shorter than the stroker piston. Tradeoffs are necessary, unless you use a factory 2.4L block, where the block deck is higher (6mm) than the 2.0L block and gives you a little more room on the piston height.
Run without the dampers on the 2.3 and you'll replacing bearings a couple of times a year, run with it and you'll not have to replace anything...
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