Drop the subframe for clutch install?
Jan 7, 2007, 03:56 PM
#31
Evolving Member
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Detroit area
Posts: 372
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have personaly removed and installed my tranny (5spd) twice.
To remove and install around the subframe (I assume everone is talking about the left rear corner closest to the drive foor whell where it gets caught up???)
I remove the tranny from the engine and center diff, Angle the front of the tranny about 15 degrees away from the front of the motor (turbo area)and tilt the back of the tranny up at about a 30 degree angle...... the trans wil be coming out on a downward angle towards the drivers headlamp. With four guys helping guide it in and out it can be done in a matter of minutes...
I forgot to mention it has been on a hoist both times....
Mattj
To remove and install around the subframe (I assume everone is talking about the left rear corner closest to the drive foor whell where it gets caught up???)
I remove the tranny from the engine and center diff, Angle the front of the tranny about 15 degrees away from the front of the motor (turbo area)and tilt the back of the tranny up at about a 30 degree angle...... the trans wil be coming out on a downward angle towards the drivers headlamp. With four guys helping guide it in and out it can be done in a matter of minutes...
I forgot to mention it has been on a hoist both times....
Mattj
Jan 9, 2007, 06:12 PM
#35
Yeah, actually, my local shop hated doing my trans until they realized they could just drop the subframe. Once they figured that out, it became a breeze for them, although it does add some extra steps that take time. However, the extra time helped save more than it added, so it was a net gain in total time spent while being much easier.
There is one much easier way to do it all (maybe more than one, but one I know of specifically) that cuts it down to 2 hours from beginning to end without removing the subframe. I haven't done it myself, so no details, but one of my sponsors does it.
There is one much easier way to do it all (maybe more than one, but one I know of specifically) that cuts it down to 2 hours from beginning to end without removing the subframe. I haven't done it myself, so no details, but one of my sponsors does it.
not.....................
Jan 9, 2007, 06:14 PM
#36
Here is a trick that I do on my DSM's:
1.) Get a low profile scissor jack.
2.) please the jack in between firewall and engine block
3.) place pieces of wood on both sides of the jack to prevent marring
4.) Jack the engine AWAY from the firewall
Doing this will allow the tranny to swing clear of the subframe.
1.) Get a low profile scissor jack.
2.) please the jack in between firewall and engine block
3.) place pieces of wood on both sides of the jack to prevent marring
4.) Jack the engine AWAY from the firewall
Doing this will allow the tranny to swing clear of the subframe.
Jan 9, 2007, 06:41 PM
#37
Ive done about 20 clutches. Half the Evos in Az. Wedge the engine forward and pull it out. 5 or 6 speed, no difference. ACD/non-acd, 10 minute difference. Treating a car with respect like YOU own it, this is a 6 hour job, with a sandwich break. Jig your tranny jack, bolt the tranny on the jack, i use straps, rotate the rear of the tranny up, stab to the edge of the dowels, rotate the tranny to align the dowels, insert bolts. SECRET TIP: have someone CONTINUALLY rotating the engine as you wiggle the tranny in. this will allow the splines to "walk" on the shaft. As you walk the tranny in, take up slack in the two bolts you inserted. If you have ***** or like to gamble, just tighten the two bolts on the dowels and suck it in. (NOT ME) you will do this one time wrong and buy a new clutch disc. (i said this to KEEP peeps from doing it this way!!)Done. Ive done tiltons, which suck for stabbing the tranny. The alignment tool will align both discs with each other but not to the flywheel!!! The hole in the flywheel is like a 2" hole and the tip of the plastic tool is 3/4'. So before you clamp down the pressure plate, you have to eye ball the plates as close to center as possible. ATS carbon suggests in their instructions to cut out the sub-frame for more clearance, Yea right. Then they tell you NOT to bolt the pressure plate on the flywheel till the tranny is stabbed. one wrong move and those delicate little carbon pieces are toast!!! Now you know why shops charge alot. I charge $400 and am booked till Feb. I love this job......as far as all the clutches ive seen, i like the Exidy twin the best. Just a quality piece. Tilton is nice, but has alot of other things associated with it. Pedal adjustment is critical, or overstroking of the piston is possible. Sorry for the long rant. But this is my specialty..........Ray
Jan 9, 2007, 07:03 PM
#38
Ive done about 20 clutches. Half the Evos in Az. Wedge the engine forward and pull it out. 5 or 6 speed, no difference. ACD/non-acd, 10 minute difference. Treating a car with respect like YOU own it, this is a 6 hour job, with a sandwich break. Jig your tranny jack, bolt the tranny on the jack, i use straps, rotate the rear of the tranny up, stab to the edge of the dowels, rotate the tranny to align the dowels, insert bolts. SECRET TIP: have someone CONTINUALLY rotating the engine as you wiggle the tranny in. this will allow the splines to "walk" on the shaft. As you walk the tranny in, take up slack in the two bolts you inserted. If you have ***** or like to gamble, just tighten the two bolts on the dowels and suck it in. (NOT ME) you will do this one time wrong and buy a new clutch disc. (i said this to KEEP peeps from doing it this way!!)Done. Ive done tiltons, which suck for stabbing the tranny. The alignment tool will align both discs with each other but not to the flywheel!!! The hole in the flywheel is like a 2" hole and the tip of the plastic tool is 3/4'. So before you clamp down the pressure plate, you have to eye ball the plates as close to center as possible. ATS carbon suggests in their instructions to cut out the sub-frame for more clearance, Yea right. Then they tell you NOT to bolt the pressure plate on the flywheel till the tranny is stabbed. one wrong move and those delicate little carbon pieces are toast!!! Now you know why shops charge alot. I charge $400 and am booked till Feb. I love this job......as far as all the clutches ive seen, i like the Exidy twin the best. Just a quality piece. Tilton is nice, but has alot of other things associated with it. Pedal adjustment is critical, or overstroking of the piston is possible. Sorry for the long rant. But this is my specialty..........Ray
Jan 10, 2007, 06:37 PM
#40
Account Disabled
iTrader: (53)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: LI, NY
Posts: 610
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
we charge 550$ and i must say doing the 6 speed is more annoying then then 5 speed. the tranny is heavier and a ***** to get in. what we do is remove the shifter assembly on the tranny itself, makes it alot easier
Jan 11, 2007, 03:14 PM
#42
Wow, Uh.....i would read the instructions thouroghly before installing.......maybe seek assistance from your local shop. Those discs break easy!!! (carbon/carbon) Stabbing the tranny means bolting the tranny to the block....not bolting the pressure plate to the flywheel 'till the tranny is stabbed means just what it says. I read the instructions provided by ATS. I chose not to do it that way. Ive stabbed so many, i can just feel it......and if you use my SECRET TIP (above), it helps....
Aug 11, 2008, 06:14 PM
#45
Evolved Member
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Knoxville Tennessee
Posts: 1,275
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ive done about 20 clutches. Half the Evos in Az. Wedge the engine forward and pull it out. 5 or 6 speed, no difference. ACD/non-acd, 10 minute difference. Treating a car with respect like YOU own it, this is a 6 hour job, with a sandwich break. Jig your tranny jack, bolt the tranny on the jack, i use straps, rotate the rear of the tranny up, stab to the edge of the dowels, rotate the tranny to align the dowels, insert bolts. SECRET TIP: have someone CONTINUALLY rotating the engine as you wiggle the tranny in. this will allow the splines to "walk" on the shaft. As you walk the tranny in, take up slack in the two bolts you inserted. If you have ***** or like to gamble, just tighten the two bolts on the dowels and suck it in. (NOT ME) you will do this one time wrong and buy a new clutch disc. (i said this to KEEP peeps from doing it this way!!)Done. Ive done tiltons, which suck for stabbing the tranny. The alignment tool will align both discs with each other but not to the flywheel!!! The hole in the flywheel is like a 2" hole and the tip of the plastic tool is 3/4'. So before you clamp down the pressure plate, you have to eye ball the plates as close to center as possible. ATS carbon suggests in their instructions to cut out the sub-frame for more clearance, Yea right. Then they tell you NOT to bolt the pressure plate on the flywheel till the tranny is stabbed. one wrong move and those delicate little carbon pieces are toast!!! Now you know why shops charge alot. I charge $400 and am booked till Feb. I love this job......as far as all the clutches ive seen, i like the Exidy twin the best. Just a quality piece. Tilton is nice, but has alot of other things associated with it. Pedal adjustment is critical, or overstroking of the piston is possible. Sorry for the long rant. But this is my specialty..........Ray
good info man, thanks for sharing. I had no idea about rotating the crank in order to "walk" the tranny onto the block. I'll try that in a few days when I have to install my tranny again